Routing Question - Woodworking Talk

TS3660 · 07-21-2008, 02:25 PM

Being the router beginner that I am I have what are probably a few simple questions. I need to put several 5/16" through slots in a 3/4" thick piece of oak. These slots will be 9" long and closed on both ends so I need to plunge. The slots will be parallel to the grain. How much depth can I route on each pass? Can I take the entire 3/4" in one pass? What kind of bit do I need if I am going to plunge?

Rob · 07-21-2008, 09:21 PM

I would probably make it in 3 passes of 1/4" each. Of course, I would go through the whole shootin' match on some scrap first to make sure I know how everything is going to act.
Here's a little tutorial on plunging...
http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?commentID=136

woodworks · 07-21-2008, 09:51 PM

Do you have a route table? I would do it on the table. I agree with the 1/4" passes. If have a straight bit, you can always pre-drill your starting holes. If you already have a plunge bit, then by all means use that. You didn't say how wide your stock is, so I don't know if you have a nice base to keep your router steady and flat. If you have the table and fence, you can 'set' your peice down on the bit and route it in passes. Of course if you don't have an easily movable fence, it may just be easier to do it with your plunge router and fence/straight edge.

If you don't already have a 5/16" bit, you can use a 1/4" bit and do your adjustments. A little more involved, but doable. But they do make a 5/16" plunge bit. I have an incra fence system and it is very good at being able to adjust for the different adjustments. Of course if you have everything marked out from the start, you shouldn't have any problems. Just remember to go slow and don't take out more then your bit can handle. You will get the 'feel' for that pretty quick.

TS3660 · 07-22-2008, 08:53 AM

Thanks guys. The stock is 3/4 thick, 4" wide, and 10" long. I am making heat registers to match my hardwood floor so there will be about 10 slots in it that are 9" long. I will do plenty of testing first on my router table. I tried doing it on my table saw by raising a dado blade up through it but because of the roundness of the blade, it cuts out the bottom edge of the wood before coming through the top.

woodworks · 07-22-2008, 09:34 PM

I'm thinking of doing the same thing.

Are you going to be able to shut them off, or will they just be open all the time? As of yet, I haven't figured out a way to close them off. Still working on that one. Are you having them sit up on the floor, or are you putting them down flush with the flooring? Since I'm making my own flooring, I am using 3/4" stock, so I will be able to rout out a 'shoulder' to set them down into.

Send a picture when you've got them done. I'd like to see what you did.

Rob · 07-22-2008, 10:31 PM

Another option would be to rip some thin strips...
Cut some of these strips to a shorter length...1" or so...
Glue these shorter pieces in between the longer ones at the ends...
Sand and finish.

lucas.j.dunton · 07-23-2008, 12:05 AM

i would use this easily made jig that i use for mortises and dados with my plunge router
http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issue...tising-jig.pdf
takes 5 min to make and is super easy to use

TS3660 · 07-23-2008, 09:20 AM

Quote:

I'm thinking of doing the same thing.

Are you going to be able to shut them off, or will they just be open all the time? As of yet, I haven't figured out a way to close them off. Still working on that one. Are you having them sit up on the floor, or are you putting them down flush with the flooring? Since I'm making my own flooring, I am using 3/4" stock, so I will be able to rout out a 'shoulder' to set them down into.

Send a picture when you've got them done. I'd like to see what you did.

I am not going to bother making a closer for them. I thought about it for a while and then figured it was more trouble than it was worth. And another thing I figured was more trouble than it was worth is angling the slots so the air would get blown in different directions. These will be straight though slots. I calculated the area of an original and I have several cofigurations in mind that come close to original. Meaning I have different slot widths and different sized fins between the slots. Right now I'm thinking 3/8" slots with 9/64" fins.
They will sit flush with the floor. The bottom will rest on the subfloor that I left 1/4" smaller all the way around than the opening for the register. I will definately send pictures. And any thoughts you might have let me know.

woodworks · 07-23-2008, 08:16 PM

The only thought I can think of you touched on already. It's about the angle of the fins. When I had my furnace's installed, I was talking with the furnace guy later on and was wondering why the room wasn't heating up like it used to. It was because of the registers not being put in and the air blowing out at angles. The air was just blowing straight down or up (I put one furnace upstairs that blow's from the ceiling and one downstairs that blows up from the floor). He was right. After I put in the registers, it made a big difference. I hope you don't have the same problem as I did.

Of course it would be a pain to get the fins angled. Unless they were made like a shutter. A lot more work, that's for sure. Maybe not worth it. So you may have the right idea after all.

Looking forward to seeing some pictures.

TS3660 · 07-23-2008, 08:46 PM

I know what you mean and I sure hope the angle isn't as important as you make it seem. But I was over a friend's house and he has cast iron grates with a scroll pattern in them. They are straight through. I have a back up plan though. If I absolutely need the angle, I'll put a diverter underneath. Other than that, I dunno. But hey, I bet they at least look good. And for a woman (my wife), looks are more important than function.

woodworks · 07-24-2008, 06:06 PM

Man, I have to agree with that about the looks. Also just the fact that it was you who did it. I think for mine, just because I made it overrides the looks.

That's not a bad idea about the diverter. After you said that, I got this bright idea, why not just make the plate and lay it over top of the register (for me, not for you)? Also, that way if I really wanted, I could pick up the plate and close the vent if wanted. Thanks for that idea. I've looked in the home improvement places and I like the scroll patterns they have. I think I will have my wife come up with something. She's an exellent drawer. I've also got some pictures of scroll work that I think she could make into patterns.

But, I'm in no hurry to get to that project since I don't have all the floors done yet. And at the rate I'm going, I may never have them done.

TS3660 · 07-25-2008, 08:56 AM

The plate sounds like a good idea. I'll be making my attempt at the wood grate this weekend. I'll let you know how it works. I hope it'll be good.

woodworks · 07-25-2008, 04:20 PM

Well you can only screw it up once (or twice, or three times). Oh sorry, that's me I'm thinking of.

Send along some pictures. Maybe I'll just copy them.

TS3660 · 07-27-2008, 03:06 PM

Woodworks, I'm done and very happy. See my post under the project showcase.