Gundog

Can you give me some pros and cons of having a router table in an extension wing on the saw? I have been using a Ryobi BT 3000 with a router mounted in it. I have 2 small bench top router tables and I use them for some simple operations but I really don't like the fences on them. I am planning on getting a new bigger saw and I am contemplating a router table on the saw. Grizzly has a saw with a cast iron router table but it does not have a miter slot. I have been thinking of just getting an extension table set up and mounting my own router in that table.

One of the things I build requires me to route a T slot in the middle of a 24" piece of HDPE and the small tables I have can only be set about 3 or 4" from the bit so I use the Ryobi saw with the router mounted to it. I was also wondering if mounting the router in a cast iron table would result in better cuts due to the solid table.

I really like the looks of the Incra router table top but I can't find out how much distance they will adjust from the fence. Their web page says they have a 17" & 25" table but I am not sure if that is the width of the whole table or the max distance the fence can be adjusted from the router bit. I will probably give them a call next week. I am going to order a saw once I get this all figured out.

I also like the looks of the cast iron extension router table that MLCS sells. Anybody have something they really like they could share some ideas and or pictures of please?
Mike

knotscott

My shop is tiny and placing the router table in TS wing is a great space saver. A separate unit has some advantages but as space saving compromises go, this is a really good one IMHO.

DC from above is about the same as a separate RT, but DC below is more if a challenge. Storage space tends to be more of a challenge also. My answer to both issues was to build a cabinet below the RT.

Gundog

I am considering the router on the saw more for the use of the larger table with a quality fence than the space savings. I have a little room in the shop but I am running out of space fast. I am really busy in my shop right now and I do not have the time to stop and build something from scratch. The pre made router tables I have looked at on line all seem to share the same problem they don't have enough distance from the fence to the cutter bit. My use of the table is probably unusual that is why they don't already make something.

I could build a special jig and use my plunge router I just have to figure this out.
Mike

sawduststeve

My father bought a Delta 10" cabinet saw. Originally he bought it with a 32" extension which I have not understood why. I purchased the 54" extension made some side brackets out of angle iron that were bolted to the table and then attached 3/4" MDF to the top. I bought a square polycarbonate base for my router from Woodworkers supply I then routed a hole in the middle of the MDF output table for this base to fit in. This is great for me it gives my 1/2" ryobi router the capabilities of a shaper it allows the using of the miter fence from the saw as a guide and if I need to make long cuts I can either take the router out of the table and install the cover or simply lower the bit on the router and allow the work to slide over the top. I have a 4X9 output table for my TS so that allows me to work with as long of boards as needed for any project.

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Steve

cabinetman

I like having a router in the TS extension. It has many advantages by having a miter slot, fence, and a large surface. For that router I use a fixed base. Adjustment isn't a big deal.

BORKBOB

A few yrs. ago I built a router table fence ala ShopNotes. I also built a wood/laminate extension for my saw and mounted a router. The table sagged in a short time. I parted out a Sears 113.xxxxxx contractor saw about that time and used the top to make my own CI extension. I was using a 9 x 12 plate at the time and I had to shave about 1/8" off each side of the plate to save the miter slots in the saw table. My fence is mounted using the miter slots and I can use the fence for both directions. Just yesterday I rounded over the edges of a 27" x 27" maple countertop/cutting board by mounting the fence facing in.

I used 1/16" abrasive wheels on a 4.5" grinder, files and grinding wheels to do the cut out. I had to mount some cleats to hold the insert. I also filled the remainder of the original throat opening with epoxy and sanded it flush.

That mess in the background is a sliding table (MuleCab) that came with my used Grizzly 1023 SL. I mounted the left wing between the right wing and my router table. This allowed me to move my Unifence rail and I can almost get a 36" rip cut.

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Gerry KIERNAN

One of the forum members had two identical table saws which he joined together with a long set of rails. He had a space between the two saw tables into which he mounted a router table. That way he could rout using either fence. It seemed like a great idea.

Gerry

Keithprice

I got a cast iron extension for my Unisaw which had a hole for the router and bolted right on to my saw. It seems perfect to me. The table is rock solid, the extra space improves my table saw and I can use the table saw fence with the router. I did have to move the fence rails so the fence had enough travel. I also made an auxiliary fence that can clamp to the saw fence and it has a suction port and a micro adjustment, but these were added later and it worked fine without them. I just want to collect all the dust I can at the source. The cast iron wing was cheaper than a lot of router tops and much more solid and durable.
Sedna

GeorgeC

Your reply interest me.

I would think that it would be just the opposite. That having now made my table saw much larger I would have a problem finding a place to locate it. It would also make it much harder to move around.

With separate pieces I can easier find a place to keep them out of the way when not needed. They would also be easier to move into working position.

G

sslandry

Anybody have any cons to the idea? What bout the fact that you may have to make a rip after getting your router all set up? This is what is keeping me from making the switch from my free standing router table. The extra space would be nice, but I'm worried about the times when I need to use both tools at once. Is this an issue?

Marktrl

I made mine out of a piece of melamine I had laying around. Its a nice slick surface. the router is mounted to an insert, so if I have it set up and then need to rip something wide I just remove the insert with router attached and make the rip.

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Keithprice

In my case, I just retract the router below the table and put two rings that came with the extension in place and continue. I never remove the router from the table except to change bits. It just slides down and out at the press of a button. It is a Milwaukee.
Keith Price

johnnie52

I have not yet gotten a "real" table saw.... so I still use my Craftsman 10" bench top pretend TS. However, I've made several modifications to it over the 11 years I've owned it. One of those mods was to bolt my Craftsman 24" router table directly to the left side of the TS. With my other modifications, I can do most of what the guys with the real saws can do while still being able to move the whole unit around the shop (car port) easily. I can also use the TS fence with the router and have the benefit of the large surface on the TS when I need to work on large stuff by using the back side of the router table and feeding material into it from behind the TS.

I can not think of a single con aspect to this set-up. Its so much better this way for both the router and the TS wann-be.

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