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Router table cabinet help and ideas

8K views 44 replies 16 participants last post by  Techsniffer 
#1 ·
I have purchased a Kreg Router table Top and Fence and I am wanting to build a cabinet for it to sit on. Since I'm new to routers and router tables I wanted some ideas / suggestions to put this top on as I'm not very familiar with a lot of the needs or desires when working with a router table.

I will link to the items I have to better help everyone understand what I'm working with, but I do not have much space in my work area so really I need something about the same size as the top itself. I have a small table saw, miter saw, jigsaw, drill & impact drill, circular saw, and brad nailer. If anyone has plans for this top or for a 32in x 24in top feel free to share.

I have a full 4x8 sheet of 3/4 MDF ready for this project, just need to best understand how I should lay this stand out.

The main reason I'm asking is so I don't build something then realize too late I should have done something differently, IE overhanging edge for clamping.

I could also use some ideas for a miter gauge for use with this, Kreg wanted $100 for theirs and the one that came with my table saw is pure garbage.

Router Table Top
Router Table Fence
Bosch Router - 1617EVSPK
 
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#2 ·
you can start out with the basics. what work height you like, I personally have mine higher than a table saw. I like an overhang so you can stand up close to it with out leaning. most are built to include: storage (maybe a drawer to house the router bits), electrical outlet/switch to control the router, dust collection, and a well built support structure for the new table top. some folks put locking casters on theirs for mobility.
 
#7 ·
I'm 6ft so I think I should think about height since I will need to apply pressure from the top and side while routing and don't want my back hurting after routing for a while.

As for basic features, yes, build the cabinet so that you have at least 2" of overhang all around for clamping guides, etc. Then you can go as simple as a large box with some shelves for storage of routers and bits and an internal box for the running router, for sawdust collection. Or you could move on up and try your hand at building drawers, etc.

Depending on how tall you are, you can design the height to fit what is comfortable for you, otherwise I would make it the same as the tablesaw for an outfeed table.

I am in the process of building my own router table right now, to fit the Rockler top, so I understand all the thoughts you are having. I designed my setup to incorporate an adjustable height, so I can store it under a workbench, as well as being able to sit when doing many small operations. Haven't taken any photos yet, but have just been getting parts cut, will start documenting the assembly. And if it works like I hope, THEN I'll post it! :grin: Got the idea from a plan posted on Wood Magazine: http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood-routers/telescoping-router-table-for-compact-storage
I built a mobile workbench with my small table saw at one end to act as an out feed table and a miter saw recess in the center on one side to accommodate longer material, so this will be for routing only. You mention drawers, it's funny how intimidating they can be starting out like I am. I specifically didn't want a bench top type of routing solution, I just want to roll it into its storage spot and have it out of the way.

I'll check out the link though, thank you.

Mine is nearly 39 inches high. Sure makes it nice on the back (I am 5'10"...or, at least, I used to be that height!)

My personal opinion is you don't need a miter gauge. Maybe others will chip in with their 2 cents worth. Good luck. Post some pics of your cabinet when you get it built. We like pics. :grin:
I wish I knew a good way to tell what height would be comfortable to work with, but I was thinking a minimum of 36in for the top to be at when finished (with or without wheels)

All the searching and reading I did on routers and tables, I found Norm Abrams work station a really nice design. You can see him build it on YouTube.

I did something very basic with a cabinet base. I wanted room to work so kept the table big.
I love Norm's work, I watch a lot of This Old House and The New Yankee Workshop videos on YouTube trying to get an idea for how things might work best. My only concern with the table you pictured is that I would worry about the overhanging top sagging or breaking the wood over time.

Some of the ideas I've had overall for this, including this post.

Full size cabinet to stand and work at (not fond of benchtop tool working)
Will likely have locking caster wheels so it can roll out of the way when not in use.
I'd really like some drawers, but I'm not sure if my novice skills would produce a solid drawer or a square one lol
I think I would like the surrounding area of the router to be enclosed to minimize dust/debris and maybe think of some way to hook up my shop vac to it, not sure on that yet.
I will design for at the very least 1in overhang on all edges, maybe two.

I found a bunch of free plans for routing tables but the issue is that some are too simple, some are too complex and above my current skill level, or simply don't fit my size/need requirements. Google works great until you already have some base ideas in your head and go trying to find something that fits into that idea.

Thanks for the help, more feedback is always welcome.
 
#3 ·
I agree, start simple. Once you start using it and see what you need for it to do for the type of work you do and your work style, then you can build another one to better fit your needs. And since you are using MDF for this one, no big expense lost when you build another.


As for basic features, yes, build the cabinet so that you have at least 2" of overhang all around for clamping guides, etc. Then you can go as simple as a large box with some shelves for storage of routers and bits and an internal box for the running router, for sawdust collection. Or you could move on up and try your hand at building drawers, etc.


Depending on how tall you are, you can design the height to fit what is comfortable for you, otherwise I would make it the same as the tablesaw for an outfeed table.


I am in the process of building my own router table right now, to fit the Rockler top, so I understand all the thoughts you are having. I designed my setup to incorporate an adjustable height, so I can store it under a workbench, as well as being able to sit when doing many small operations. Haven't taken any photos yet, but have just been getting parts cut, will start documenting the assembly. And if it works like I hope, THEN I'll post it! :grin: Got the idea from a plan posted on Wood Magazine: http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood-routers/telescoping-router-table-for-compact-storage
 
#5 ·
Mine is nearly 39 inches high. Sure makes it nice on the back (I am 5'10"...or, at least, I used to be that height!)

My personal opinion is you don't need a miter gauge. Maybe others will chip in with their 2 cents worth. Just push your work along the fence.

Since the router spins round and round, it doesn't make any difference where the fence is positioned. I clamp mine on each end. Not special tracks needed.

If you are using a bit with a bearing on the end, you don't need a fence at all. Or you can use a straight edge (steel ruler) to line up your fence with the bearing to get more support as you pass the work piece passed the spinning cutter.

There are all sorts of videos on You Tube about how to use a router. Go take a look-see.

Good luck. Post some pics of your cabinet when you get it built. We like pics. :grin:
 

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#6 ·
All the searching and reading I did on routers and tables, I found Norm Abrams work station a really nice design. You can see him build it on YouTube.

I did something very basic with a cabinet base. I wanted room to work so kept the table big.

Workbench Table Machine Furniture Tool


Floor Hardwood Table Wood Flooring



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#10 ·
I found these plans which seem to be a variant of Norm's router table, I won't have to worry about the top / fence as I have those arriving today. If you look at the cut/parts list it calls for 2 sheets of 3/4 Birch plywood, since I already have 1 sheet of 3/4 MDF would it be ok to just get a second and use MDF for the build? I'm not experienced enough to know what the 'real' differences are between the two items, I am aware of how they are both made but I don't know what structural differences they have.

Creston Wood Router Table

And I got some inspiration from at time index 49 minutes 0 seconds, installing 2 lid stays it will give me quick and easy access to my router to remove it from the table or to quickly change bits, if I'm correct I see a piano hinge which is plenty strong enough for the 45ish lbs of combined table/fence/router/base weight.

The only part I'm not sold on is the dust collection, not because I don't think it works, but more because I only have a single small shop vac and I'm not sure if I want to blow through a vac filter every time I route something.

The upside is that I do have a pocket hole jig and a case of screws for it, so I'm good there.

Please keep the feedback coming, my idea of what I want to do is coming together!
 
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#14 ·
Ok, so if I go with plywood, I will get 3/4in, but what 'type' would be suitable? I see things like birch, sande, RTD Sheathing Syp and a few more at the local HD. I don't care about looks I just want something thats going to be strong and stable, and since MDF is weaker to screws and with all the lateral movement/forces on a router table it makes sense to go with a stronger material, but some of those sheets are $50+ for a 4x8 sheet and I'm not trying to spend $200 in sheet goods.
 
#12 ·
I have found the miter gauge to be very useful - it really helps if you're routering thru a short pc - like tweaking a lap joint or tenon....

as for height - the adjustable design by (sorry, don't recall the user, but it is genius) is pretty much anything you could want. for a fixed height (my back creaks as well.....) stand erect, stick your forearm out parallel to the ground, measure bottom of elbow to floor, deduct 2" - that's an easy working height for me - the 2" is a soft number - could be a bit more or a bit less.

human bodies are not all the same - short legs long legs long torso stubby arms . . . . so some magic number for X inches of height is not the best guideline.
 
#13 ·
I like the cabinet you have chosen. Here are a few things I like in a router cabinet:
1. Wire your on/off switch into a an outlet mounted on your table. This will allow you to plug-in your shop vac and every time the switch is turned on, it also turns on the shop vac.
Wire the cabinet up directly to a wall plug-in with an 8' cord and plug the router into the outlet inside the new cabinet.
2. Consider casters if you want to easily move the cabinet.
3. Make your overall height of the cabinet to match your table saw height.
4. The door to the router will need to be vented. The router needs air for cooling and the vacuum needs air flow to work well.
This will be a great addition to your shop.
 
#15 ·
1. I bought a paddle switch and I will wire it up to an outlet, it wouldn't be hard to do as you suggest.
2. Casters are a part of my plan 100%
3. This really isn't necessary as I have plenty of out feed area for my table saw
4. Yeah I've seen a few videos that show the airflow system and how it works

Thanks for the feedback
 
#16 ·
I built one very similar to the one in your video, but perhaps a little bit larger. I actually based my design on that same video. It's great having the drawers to organize bits, fixtures and router tools.
I picked the Jessem router lift and love it. I haven't made the 'final' fence yet, and I usually use a shopvac and cyclone for dust collection. It works okay, but I'm hoping that the new fence will solve most of the issues I see.
 
#17 ·
I might need to re-think the table I chose to build, I started pricing out everything I would need and I'm running about $300 for basically a wooden box, which for that kind of money I can buy pre-made options with most/all of the same features to some degree.

I love the design, but really the cost is killing me right now.
 
#20 ·
I think everyone is doing what I do to myself, overthinking and the project grows out of hand... I often have to step back and start over.


To get something built so you can use your router table-top, use the sheet of MDF you have. Build a basic box, put casters on it, and start routing. The construction can be simple, use plenty of screws and glue, space screws 4"-5" apart down all sides of the box, fairly long coarse threads, and for this temporary box, plain drywall screws will do, maybe at least 2" long. The front of the cabinet can have a door cut in it, if you feel comfortable making plunge cuts with a circular saw or use a jig saw. Leave at least 3"-4" all the way around the front when cutting out the door, to keep the front side stable. Attached the hinges before you finish the corner cuts and the door is already centered. Then you can store items inside the box, or if you don't build a smaller box to go under the router for dust collection, then you can just vacuum out the bottom of the box as needed. Unless you plan on climbing on the box, MDF should be strong enough to get you started. Then as many said before, figure out how you want the next cabinet to be built, save your spare change, and get some good plywood.


And from my experience, in my area, the best plywood I can easily find locally is the Columbia Pure Bond from Home Depot. It is $50 for a sheet of 3/4", but pretty consistent. I have used the sande ply from Lowe's (more conveniently located for me) but their thin layers delaminate fairly easily (in my cases), warps easily, and the paper thin veneers pretty well force you to hand sand, if you want to give it a nice finish.
 
#18 ·
I have the Kreg bench top router table. I built a stand like MTStringer's but didn't make it adjustable. I used 2x4s and a sink cutout for the project. BTW, you can get sink cutouts from the local cabinet or countertop shop. Mine are free as they would only wind up in the dumpster, according to the owner.
 
#22 ·
It's not about having enough funds nor about not knowing what I want, it's that I gave myself a budget for the build and a lot of that budget went into the parts that generally require more expertise than I have to have a favorable outcome, which leaves me not wanting to break my budget. I would very much love to build the cabinet I originally chose but its materials cost more than I anticipated. I am new to woodworking and I dont have a very good baseline for looking at a project and sort of knowing where it will land money wise.

I think everyone is doing what I do to myself, overthinking and the project grows out of hand... I often have to step back and start over.


To get something built so you can use your router table-top, use the sheet of MDF you have. Build a basic box, put casters on it, and start routing. The construction can be simple, use plenty of screws and glue, space screws 4"-5" apart down all sides of the box, fairly long coarse threads, and for this temporary box, plain drywall screws will do, maybe at least 2" long. The front of the cabinet can have a door cut in it, if you feel comfortable making plunge cuts with a circular saw or use a jig saw. Leave at least 3"-4" all the way around the front when cutting out the door, to keep the front side stable. Attached the hinges before you finish the corner cuts and the door is already centered. Then you can store items inside the box, or if you don't build a smaller box to go under the router for dust collection, then you can just vacuum out the bottom of the box as needed. Unless you plan on climbing on the box, MDF should be strong enough to get you started. Then as many said before, figure out how you want the next cabinet to be built, save your spare change, and get some good plywood.


And from my experience, in my area, the best plywood I can easily find locally is the Columbia Pure Bond from Home Depot. It is $50 for a sheet of 3/4", but pretty consistent. I have used the sande ply from Lowe's (more conveniently located for me) but their thin layers delaminate fairly easily (in my cases), warps easily, and the paper thin veneers pretty well force you to hand sand, if you want to give it a nice finish.
This really isn't something that I've overthought or have feature creep, I just like to build something right the first time so I dont have to do it again lol.

The sides and drawers can all be built from 1/2" sheet material. I prefer Birch if it's not too expensive. You should be able to build the cabinet from one sheet of plywood.
Use 1/4" for your drawer bottoms (ply or Masonite). You already have the top.
Another method would be to build a frame out of 2" lumber and cover with 1/2" ply.
Either way will be a good strong cabinet. Good luck.
I might build most of the basic structure and leave some of the hardware for a future finish up.
 
#24 ·
Make it simple to start. MDF is fine but it is best to pilot drill for the screws, especially into the edges.
I'm not a fan of drywall screws for woodworking projects. Get some screws made for the purpose. Several brands are available. I just pulled a box from our stock. The label says "Quick Screws" (brand name) #8 X 1 1/2" #2 CO-FL NIBBS QC DRYLUBE PART NO : 5441 carton qty: 7000. I know you can get them in smaller boxes also. We keep boxes in lengths from 1" to 3" by 1/4". These have a combination drive that fits either a #2 Robertson or a #2 Philips, NIBBS refers to the cutting notches under the head that allow them to self countersink in some materials. A notch at the tip of the screw helps them cut their way into the wood/board. They have a very aggressive widely spaced thread that holds well in most anything. We use the Robertson drive bits (square) in Makita impact drivers, much better than using a drill. You can get the drive bits up to 6" long so you can work into tight corners. Though these screws will self drill into most things, it is best to drill a through hole of about 3/16" in the top part and a 1/8" in the bottom part so the parts will be tightly pulled together. Use glue for a permanent bond.
 
#25 ·
Well I sucked it up and broke a bit of the budget to get all the wood I need for the project, but I left out most of the hardware for the drawers and door, as those are things I can mostly plan for during the build and then buy them as the budget allows.

I have Elmers woodmax glue that's paintable and stainable, I have a few lengths of the star drive decking screws and a brad nailer and I picked up a couple larger bar clamps to assist with gluing, I have a few countersink bits and ordered a passable set today on Amazon. I have a Hitachi cordless drill and a Ryobi impact drill (which was a great purchase)

As for the Fence and Table, yeah they are pricey but I wanted something that was well reviewed and well received in the community, and while I did not care for the price of the top or the fence I do think they will pay for themselves very quickly in versatility and well made parts that last. These were also the two pieces that if I were to make myself left a high margin for error which would impact all future projects, so I chose the more expensive path.

So in the end I'll have the table I want, but it'll take a little longer to have a finished table, which I'm ok with.
 
#29 ·
I did, a LOT! I always look for inspiration where I can find it and I generally spend weeks researching a project before buying or starting it to make sure of the requirements (time and hardware/material) before starting anything, I also look as the tool requirements to make sure I think it's something I can accomplish with what I have at hand.

Regarding the glue: I think you'll be hard pressed to find any that's actually stainable, so be judicious when using it where stain is planned. There are numerous threads here that discuss minimizing squeezeout and cleanup of glue before staining.
The Kreg top - I have one & like it. I've come across a couple of things, though. The edge banding started pulling away, so I tacked it back down.
The second thing is that the left side of the fence is locked down by a knobbed screw through a slot in the table into a nut. When you want to remove the table unscrewing this long-winded thing takes time. So does replacing it. Other than that, I really like it.
I bought mine before the plate with the twist-lock rings was available. I upgraded to that & wouldn't want to go back. It's drop-in, no modifications necessary.
I also recommend the micro-adjuster for the fence. It really simplifies getting the fence dead-on.
I just Kreg-jig pocket-screwed a 2x4 table frame for the top when I got it. When I get a lift I'll build a proper cabinet. For now, it's good as is.
1. I have read up about many types of glues and I am aware that claiming to be stainable it can often be misleading, and I have a set of rags etc to cleanup as much glue as possible during the build.
2. Not sure if you noticed (or yours might not have this feature) but at the beck left of the fence slide is a 1in hole so you can slide the fence all the way back and the locking knob hardware will slide right out of that hole without needing to take the entire assembly apart.
3. The fence comes with the micro adjuster, and I agree I think it will be helpful
4. I have the Kreg K5 pocket hole jig as I knew from watching YouTube that almost everyone was using one and I figured that would be a very smart investment, and I've already used it a bit.

Go to pinterist.com or download their app and search for router table designs... it will being up many great ideas and its all image based to quickly see whats up.
I did this as well, I looked for designs that I felt were well thought out, well received by the comments, and ones that seemed to be duplicated by many others. I found it easy to become 'lost' in pintrest and a bit overwhelming.

Thanks for all the feedback, now that I have all the wood and the casters / lid stays I will get started on this project soon. Feel free to drop in more suggestions, I check back often.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Regarding the glue: I think you'll be hard pressed to find any that's actually stainable, so be judicious when using it where stain is planned. There are numerous threads here that discuss minimizing squeezeout and cleanup of glue before staining.
The Kreg top - I have one & like it. I've come across a couple of things, though. The edge banding started pulling away, so I tacked it back down.
The second thing is that the left side of the fence is locked down by a knobbed screw through a slot in the table into a nut. When you want to remove the table unscrewing this long-winded thing takes time. So does replacing it. Other than that, I really like it.
I bought mine before the plate with the twist-lock rings was available. I upgraded to that & wouldn't want to go back. It's drop-in, no modifications necessary.
I also recommend the micro-adjuster for the fence. It really simplifies getting the fence dead-on.
I just Kreg-jig pocket-screwed a 2x4 table frame for the top when I got it. When I get a lift I'll build a proper cabinet. For now, it's good as is.



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#31 ·
No, my table doesn't have the hole, just the slot. Now I have to figure a way to cut one.
Get to building! [emoji6] And don't forget the the photos.
If you download the newest version owners manual it has a diagram on placement of how to prep/drill the hole.
 
#33 ·
I am just making a few last minute checks to ensure I have all hardware and tools on hand before I start my build this weekend. I have read through the PDF plans and the remaining question I have is what connection method(s) should I be using to build this? Naturally I will be using wood glue and clamps but should I be using screws to assemble this or will 18g brad nails suffice?

My question broken down: If I were to be using nails/screws what lengths and sizes should I be using?

I have an 18g Brad nailer, if nails which lengths would be best? I have included the pdf in this post to help.
 

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#35 ·
After much work, frustration, challenges etc I am almost done with my first project (something more then slapping 2x4's together) in over 20+ years.

It's not perfect, but its for shop use so it doesn't need to be perfect. I have 1 wrench drawer left to make (last minute change), and I have to decide how to mount my paddle switch, but otherwise it's done.

Much of my project cuts happened before I purchased a set of calipers and you likely can't see from the photo but my cut quality improved significantly once I had a tool that allowed me to setup my janky cheap table saw so I can get mostly straight cuts.

This is variant of Norm Abram's router table he built on the New Yankee workshop but I linked the plans I used for most of this in an earlier post. Which is another issue I ran into, while I appreciate people putting out free plans, I wish more people that do so to do 2 things to help people like myself who are still learning: 1. If your going to provide plans at least make sure they are correct, I ran into several contradictory items between the PDF itself and the SketchUp plans (some of the SU files were kind of lazily done) 2. I based much of my information, cuts, measurements off the plans for 1/2" and 3/4" material, at the time not realizing that undersized material is the norm. Either make your plans actual sizes or let people know that under sized material will cause problems if using the measurements they provide.

With that said I got the project done and I do appreciate free plans, but being a person that writes a great number of technical documentation I wish more people would provide certain key pieces of information, but I'm probably just nit picking.

I opted to make two large drawers as when I started to lay out the material for the two smaller lower drawers I felt they were too shallow and I probably would end up with a jam packed large drawer and nearly empty smaller ones, so I made a second large one. I also opted to have a second wrench drawer instead of the one. The other major change from the plans is that I didnt make my own top, instead buying a Kreg 24x32 top and the Kreg fence, but rather than attach the top directly to the cabinet I used a piano hinge in the back to allow me to lift the top to pull the router in/out and to help with bit changes as I don't have a lift for my Bosch 1617.

The only remaining challenge is where to put the paddle switch. I had a hell of a time finding a box large enough to accommodate it (3 1/2" deep box was still tight) and I ended up with a blue plastic box with a tab for nails/screws on one side and to the back of it an outlet, which if attached just by the tab it will be flimsy and wobbly... and pretty ugly. So I'm trying to decide how I want to get it connected, I though about making a little box for it to sit in with scraps and to provide some stability for the box/outlet.
 

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#36 ·
Looks great. I almost never use provided cut lists and plans exact deminsions. Its easier for me to just take basic measurements and inspiration from the plans and wing it from there.

Or plan b, take inspirarion then create my own in sketchup and then real life. Even between my own sketchup models and real life building there are often differences.

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#38 ·
Techsniffer
I think you did a top notch job! Your router station looks great.
You built a lot of drawers so this was a good project to learn on.
Many times the hardest thing about a project is getting started. Once started, you are committed to complete it. A shop project is one of the best to hone your skills on because as you said in an earlier post, it stays in your shop as a useful accessory. It doesn't have to look like furniture, it's a router work station. Yours turned out really nice.
 
#40 ·
Thanks for the word of encouragement, I will probably remake a few things like the center DC door, it called for plexiglass in the plans I had but now that its in I think it looks horrible because the static on the glass always attracts dust and I hate that. Next time I'll just build a solid door.

I'll post more images of it once I'm done to show all the aspects of it, hopefully it will help others.
 
#43 ·
Here are the photos that provide a bit more detail to what I did, and includes the addition of my paddle switch.
 

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