hkgadhia

Hello everyone,

I kinda new to the whole world of woodworking and I'm on my first 'real' project. what I need help with is identifying and buying the right router bit.

This is the story so far

I'm building a TV/Computer table from two kitchen worktop panels. they originally measured 610 x 3000 x 23 mm. The panels have a rounded edge on one side, which I'd like to duplicate in other places.

I have a router, and some bits. I was told that all I had to do was route one side, flip it over and router the other and it would give me the same total effect and is already on one side of the panels.

On spare wood i've tried doing this, but no result.

I'm in Denmark and the choice here is very limited. The shank is 8MM and the thinkness of the wood is 23MM

Can anyone tell me what router bit I need and where to buy it???

97phatlady

Good Morning to Denmark. Sounds like a simple round over but size of bit and thickness of table would help. I'm sure someone here can help but a picture of what you are trying to accomplish would probably get you an instant response.

bradnailer

Your problem may be that you are trying to freehand the cut with your router which severely limits the flexibility of the look. If you can, you might invest in a router table where you can adjust the fence and have a little better control over the bit heighth.

Gerry KIERNAN

Welcome to the forum. What you need to do is figure out the radius of corner you wish to duplicate, and purchase a roundover bit that matches your radius. Get one that has a pilot bearing to help you control how much material you remove.
The other thing you can do is to secure a straight edge to the surface to line the edge of your router up on so that you have an edge guide.
With a piloted router bit you should be able to do one side, flip the panel over, and do the other side.

Gerry

firehawkmph

Just to expand on what Gerry said above about using the pilot bit and doing both sides. This will work well as long as the size of the radius isn't too much. If the radius approaches 1/2 the thickness of the piece you are trying to route, when you flip the panel and try to route the second half, the bearing will be riding on the radius you just routed instead of the original edge of the panel. When this happens, your second edge will be cut too deep and won't match up with the other edge.
Mike Hawkins

Gerry KIERNAN

Good point Mike. That is likely what will happen. That's why I suggested a straight edge as a backup.

Gerry

firehawkmph

Gerry,
Don't ask me how I know about this.
Mike Hawkins

Gerry KIERNAN

I have a strong suspicion that you acquired you wisdom the same way I did. [aka the hard way]

Gerry

Plane Chatter

You guys are right about the bearing problem and about using a table fence as a guide, but it probably doesn't have to be a "real" table for just this job. Fastening the router under a panel with a hole in it and clamping on a simple fence will do it. Of course from there it's a slippery slope.

Gus Dering

If you find yourself without a router table and you are bull nosing an edge with a bearing guided round over bit in two passes as you are describing, You can make the second pass with the router riding up on the edge of the work piece.
I know there is not much stability but with a little practice it ain't that hard. Since its a radius you have a little lee way before you go too far over the top of the cut. If your angle of attack is off the other way you simply need to make another pass to shave more material. Some sand paper to do yhe final clean up and you're golden.
Woodworking is alot like athletics sometimes. You practice good smooth techniques, breathe, relax, and make a nice smooth athletic stroke.

hkgadhia

Hi guys - thanks for the advice

This is a picture of the board and some measurements...

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/membe...1230-wood1.jpg

The board is 23mm

this is the choice of where i can buy

http://www.jvl-europe.com/?gclid=CMW...FU4e3godBjBSSA

what do you reccomend??

H

BHOFM

Your best shot is to buy or make a router table.

Your corners do not lend them self to a a piloted
bit! With a piloted bit you have just a bit of flat
at the center of the board, which can be sanded
off quickly.

A router table can be the simplest thing in the world.
Just a small table with a hole in the center and some
kind of fence.

This one looks like a million to me.

Bench Top Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking

This is the simplest I have ever seen.

Router Table for Woodworking

This is the bit you need.

http://www.jvl-europe.com/en/roundingoverbit.html

__________________
Check out my clocks!

http://woodwonderboatworks.yolasite.com/

hkgadhia

"Your best shot is to buy or make a router table.

Your corners do not lend them self to a a piloted
bit! With a piloted bit you have just a bit of flat
at the center of the board, which can be sanded
off quickly."



At the moment, I'm just starting out. I dont even really have a place to do any of this stuff or even store the drills and router. For this project (My first) I'm using my mother in laws shared basement mainly on account the table is for her and it took masses of convincing for her to accept the idea.

Hopefully in a few months i can get serious and maybe buy a proper router - the one i have cost about $100 and i want a decent one - but thats in the future - i just need to finish this table first

Many thanks for the help - I'll post pictures of the finished table in January - hopefully it'll look cool.

Merry christmas guys!!! - or is it morre customery to say 'happy holidays' ? - haha

H

hkgadhia

I've just ordered the bit and now 15 mins later i've realised there's several bits on that page.

the one i've ordered is ref 623184

Tell me its right?

H

cabinetman

You will need a "roundover" bit with a radius of less than 1/2". Since your thickness is 23mm, a standard radius would be 3/8", giving a small flat after the first pass. By the time you make the "other side pass", any flat could be block sanded out.

If the panel is too cumbersome to run through a router table, or you don't have a router table, a roundover bit in a handheld with a fence fixed to the base would eliminate the problem of where a bearing would ride.

hkgadhia

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabinetman You will need a "roundover" bit with a radius of less than 1/2". Since your thickness is 23mm, a standard radius would be 3/8", giving a small flat after the first pass. By the time you make the "other side pass", any flat could be block sanded out.

Can you reccomend a router bit from the website ?

http://www.jvl-europe.com/?gclid=CMW...FU4e3godBjBSSA

Thanks - I've just started at this and i'm useless so far

cabinetman

If you are ordering from a website, why limit yourself to that particular website?

hkgadhia

I'm in denmark - and thats the only website i can find that will deliver to DK.

If you know another...better...i'd welcome the choice

H

cabinetman

The problem I had with your website was that it listed in mm's. I don't order bits in mm's (yet). The sample bit with the dimensions showed the radius "r" 9.5 to be close to 3/8", and the bearing @ 12.7mm is close to 1/2". The 8mm shank bit did not show the size of the bearing. The 12mm shank bit did show the bearing @ 12.7mm. My guess is that would be the closest one, but don't bet the farm.

I order some bits from Amana and here is their choices for "corner round".

hkgadhia

from what you're saying - and i dont pretend to understand all of it - the bit i've ordered - the last one on the page - ref 623184 - would be the correct one - is it?