Rough cut lumber at wood craft - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 4 Old 07-22-2008, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Rough cut lumber at wood craft

I was in the local wood craft store yesterday admiring the new selections of wood that they have gotten in. I was looking at a piece of curly maple when I saw that it had a slight cup and a slight twist. It was maybe 2" x 12" x 10’ and rough cut and very expensive. I am wondering what a wood worker would do with this hunk of wood. I make everything out of solid wood with no ply because I have never known any better. My projects are usual made of oak or white pine and are usually expensive to build. I recently have been reading that people use sub straights (spelling?) for a lot of the projects and cover it with veneer where possible. I was told that typically things like table tops and style pieces were solid wood and the rest are some sort of ply or sub straight. I am beginner wood worker with lots of big plans and want to get this straight before I build any more $200 sofa tables or $600 bars.

I asked the guy at the store how he would flatten that board since it was too big to fit on a jointer. He told me to use a thickness planer, which in another thread I was told that wouldn’t work without first running it over a jointer to square it up.

So I am wondering first how would you flatten that piece of lumber. And what would you all make out of it. Would you cut table legs or for table legs would you purchase a board not as wide? Sorry if these questions sound dumb but I am entering a whole new world of wood selections. At home depot the wood is all in standard sizes. Warped, cupped, twisted, but in standard sizes. When I walk though the hardwood section at woodcraft, they have wood of all thicknesses, lengths and widths. Maybe I am reading into it too much. I know I can make the wood any thickness I want with the planer, jointer and table saw. I guess I am just wondering if there is any deeper thinking here.


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post #2 of 4 Old 07-22-2008, 08:22 PM
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Well, if I had to use the whole thing as one piece I would rip it in 2 to fit on my 8" jointer and reglue the pieces when I am done. Or I might use a sled in the thickness planer, it allows you to take out bow and twist using a planer. That would be one big sled. A 10' board is pretty tough to run through typical home jointers and planers, for one thing you need to have a clear 20' area just to put it in and run it through. Usually those big pieces are cut down for multiple smaller parts that you want to be sure came from the same tree and have the same grain and figure. There is enough in that one board to make most of a simple side table, but I like to match a board to a use, not pick a project and find wood for it. Cut in half to 2 5' sections; first 5' section rip for 8"; joint 8" side, resaw, and plane to 3/4"(after letting it rest); glue up for 16" top; joint, resaw, plane other side for long side stretchers(?) under top. Other 5' section: rip at 7-1/2"; cut this board down to ~34"; cut 34" board into 4 leg blanks; joint, resaw, and plane short board for 4 short side stretchers(?); joint, resaw, and plane the 5' board to make a stretcher for linking the 2 short sides near the bottom. I still have a 5' long 3/4" board, so maybe I can cahnge it up and make some drawers, or maybe some those little 3/4"x3/4" posts for the ends to make it craftsman style. That is what I would probably make.

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Last edited by jeffreythree; 07-22-2008 at 08:38 PM.
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post #3 of 4 Old 07-28-2008, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Very informative, thank you.
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post #4 of 4 Old 07-28-2008, 11:22 AM
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Hi djonesax

I have seen a jig which employs a router to flatten large wood pieces, such as a bench top. I can't remember the site, but basically it is a frame to fit along the sides of the piece, and a cross frame which holds the router, and can slide along the side frames and across the piece. I am planning to build one using some steel bed rails as my main frame, and some tubing for my cross frame.
Check out woodworkworkstuff by Joe Lyddon, under routers.

Last edited by Gerry KIERNAN; 07-28-2008 at 11:27 AM.
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