Resawing on a table saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-31-2009, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Resawing on a table saw

I have alot of wood that is 3/4 and i would like to have some thinner wood for inlays and for making bottoms of boxes and such, and i don't want to plane 3/4 down to 1/4. I have no bandsaw so I figure my only option is to resaw on my table saw.

Any advice on doing this? What type of blade should I use?

Thanks
Derek

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post #2 of 18 Old 03-31-2009, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dvoigt View Post
I have alot of wood that is 3/4 and i would like to have some thinner wood for inlays and for making bottoms of boxes and such, and i don't want to plane 3/4 down to 1/4. I have no bandsaw so I figure my only option is to resaw on my table saw.

Any advice on doing this? What type of blade should I use?

Thanks
Derek
Use a thin sharp blade.. and make sure you use a push stick. I do that sometimes when i get lazy, if the bandsaw is not set up to resaw.

"Just as easy to do it the right way......"

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post #3 of 18 Old 03-31-2009, 10:00 PM
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Didn't you just acquire a 1000 bf feet of hardwood lumber?

Just spend some of the money you "saved" on the bargain wood and get a bandsaw. It's the "best" way to resaw period.
It saves wood, and it's much safer. I could show you hundreds of pieces I've resawed on the bandsaw. The next thing you'll need is a jointer, then a planer, then a drum sander, and then you have a complete shop. bill

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post #4 of 18 Old 03-31-2009, 10:06 PM
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You can do it with a table saw but you lose the blade kerf which is much greater than that of a band saw. How wide is the stuff you are cutting? If you have to, you can cut half way through on each cut. The only drawback with that is you will definately have to plane the faces in a planer or joiner or sander when you are done.
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-31-2009, 10:15 PM
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Yep been to the hand surgeon over re-sawing with a table saw. If possible buy a band saw. If not make sure the blade is buried in the wood, even then I will never try that trick again. Not worth the thousands of dollars and months of rehab. 3/4" is thin to be re-sawing with a TS IMO, just be careful cause things happen quick.............


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post #6 of 18 Old 03-31-2009, 10:27 PM
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I was in this same situation before I opted for the lathe instead of the bandsaw. If you search these forums, there are some good discussions about resawing on a table saw.

I have a bunch of 2x stock, mostly 2x6, that I was working with, and wanted to resaw it to about 3/4". I did it a few times with push sticks, but it was pretty nerve wracking, so I made a jig that kept my hands well away from the blade, but still gave me two multidimensional control over the piece that I was cutting.

But for basic how-to, I'd set the cutting depth to about half the width of the board to be resawn, set my fence to cut for the thickness that I needed, then made the first cut. Then, I'd flip the board end over end so that the same side is against the fence and make the second cut. I tried to leave about 1/8" in the middle so the pieces didn't fall away from each other after the second cut (possibly binding the blade). Then I'd pop them apart. I'd use a block plane to take the nub off the middle, then run it through my planer for final thickness, or you could just sand it to clean up the blade marks.

Final remarks - if you resaw on your tablesaw, keep your hands as far away from the cutting area as possible. Make a jig, use featherboards, push sticks, whatever you can to stay plenty clear.

I'll post a pic of my jig when I can.
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-31-2009, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Just spend some of the money you "saved" on the bargain wood and get a bandsaw. It's the "best" way to resaw period.
It saves wood, and it's much safer. I could show you hundreds of pieces I've resawed on the bandsaw. The next thing you'll need is a jointer, then a planer, then a drum sander, and then you have a complete shop. bill
Just cause I saved money doesn't mean that I have more to spend

I'm checking the craigslist, there have been a few jet band saws with riser blocks, I just was never in a position to buy.

Got the jointer and planer already

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post #8 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 12:05 AM
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resawing on a table saw

It is very dangerous to resaw on a table saw. Your base is too narrow to be stable. The danger of kickback is high.

In addition, if your wood is not flat, you have increased the danger.

if you are going to do it, at least make sure you have a splitter or riving knife and use all the feather boards and what ever else you can think of to hold the wood in place. Then say your prayers that it will come out OK.

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post #9 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 06:33 AM
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I've resawn with the TS many times without issue. I started doing that before I had a BS and before I'd read about the dangers. For sure I'm not recommending this as a safe option, but am saying it can be done. It's important for the wood to be flat,straight, and square so it's predictable. It's also important to use featherboards, a splitter, and a push shoe (larger than a push stick). A taller auxiliary fence is helpful too. I use a sharp thin kerf 24T ripping blade, and typically cut in two passes. The first pass is pretty simple...it's the 2nd pass that requires caution.
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post #10 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 08:04 AM
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A trip to the E.R.,even for a band aid and an asprin,costs about the same as a real nice bandsaw.Working in the construction trades you learn to use the right tool for the job.When people get lazy,inattentive,or over confidant,is when their wife has to make a trip to the local hospital to visit.It's not worth it,not once not ever,been there.I.M.O.
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 08:30 AM
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A trip to the E.R.,even for a band aid and an asprin,costs about the same as a real nice bandsaw.Working in the construction trades you learn to use the right tool for the job.When people get lazy,inattentive,or over confidant,is when their wife has to make a trip to the local hospital to visit.It's not worth it,not once not ever,been there.I.M.O.





In my case it was enough to buy a couple saw stops, a couple band saws, and some very nice bourbon. Sad part is the band saw was 4' away from the incident. Turns out once I got heeled up that the band saw actually cut the pieces faster then the TS, hind site.......
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 09:16 AM
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Here's my jig.







With a featherboard or a stout push stick to help keep the bottom against the fence, I felt a lot more comfortable with this jig than I did with just push sticks. I still wish I had a nice big band saw for resawing, but I'll have to sell more pens before that can happen.

GL, take your time, and be careful!
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 10:32 AM
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O.K., I like the jig, which goes to show there are a lot of people out there more inventive than I.Which is why I'm here.Bookem,I hope you don't mind if I copy your jig.
I Love eating crow!!!
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 10:48 AM
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Bookem,I hope you don't mind if I copy your jig.
I don't mind at all! I'm glad I could be helpful.

I thought about making a different size jig for each width of wood that I need to resaw so that there is more sideways support toward the bottom. If you are really innovative, you could probably make one that's adjustable.
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post #15 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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but I'll have to sell more pens before that can happen.
Me too! Or maybe until another great CL deals come my way again

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post #16 of 18 Old 04-01-2009, 12:42 PM
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There is some criteria where re-sawing on a table saw I think makes it a bit less dangerous. If your re-sawing 8/4 and it is perfectly flat like these guys have stated and you keep the blade in the wood, then I believe your likelihood of incident goes down. Anything under 8/4 is not very stable on the vertical stance and ANY lateral movement of the wood as its going through will create resistance, hence a possible kickback. Feather boards will keep the bottom into the fence but if your piece is 6" tall it doesn't do much for the top. All my incident involved was a bit of kickback on a piece and I was "all done". My gut that day wasn't feeling great about the idea and it proved to be right. Trust your gut, it more than likely knows what its talking about. Good Luck and be careful.
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post #17 of 18 Old 04-02-2009, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dvoigt View Post
I have alot of wood that is 3/4 and i would like to have some thinner wood for inlays and for making bottoms of boxes and such, and i don't want to plane 3/4 down to 1/4. I have no bandsaw so I figure my only option is to resaw on my table saw.

Any advice on doing this? What type of blade should I use?

Thanks
Derek
Derek,

I have done this successfully and safely. Set your fence to the center of the wood, then set your saw blade to cut all but a quarter inch (or closer) of center. Flip the piece over and do the same with the other edge. This will leave you with a piece that is almost cut into, but still under control. Remove the piece and finish cutting with a handsaw.
Then plane it to the desired thickness.

Hope this helps
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-02-2009, 08:36 AM
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Iíve done this more than I can count. Iíve tried many methods and I have had a couple of kick backs when I rushed it and got lazy. Iíd say over all if you a jig and take all the precautions as stated previously, you will be ok.

JohnnyB
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