cabinetman

This is a technique that you might try which will yield a raised panel without doing a panel glue up, and saving some cost of solid wood.

Using 3/4" hardwood plywood, glue solid stock on all four edges, mitering the corners, and leveling the stock to the panel. The edges can then be profiled.

There are a few advantages to this process. You will have no endgrain to deal with. The width of the solid stock can be varied to allow as much "flat" before the profile. The solid stock can be the same specie, or a different one, which may add to the design character of the panel. The frame can be done like a R&S (cope and stick), or just mitered, and rabbeted. The panel can be glued into a rabbet, or into the groove provided by the bit set. Gluing in the panel will keep the frame together, and make for a very rigid panel, with no "loose panel" or movement issues.

In the fabrication of the commercial bar below, I made the bar front panels this way.
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b00kemdano

Can you build one of those in my den, plz? thx. :P

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Gerry KIERNAN

Great idea Cabinetman. That bar is a little too big for my den though.

Gerry

skymaster

Then WE need to make a bigger den

firehawkmph

Cabbyman,
Looks like a good idea. I will try that on some future projects.
Mike Hawkins

bzbatl

I'm totally there for demo on anyone's den.

Sawzall has fresh blades, and the sledgehammer has been idle in my shed...

Willie T

I especially like the idea of different or contrasting species of woods. Depending upon the line breaks of the profile, you could even glue up two or more species of hardwoods for a really striking double or triple frame effect. And no end grain to deal with is sure an attractive bonus.

toddj99

I just received a job today for a large cabinet for a nearby beauty shop - 8' x 3' x 1" deep. think I'll give something like that a shot for the doors.

bzbatl

I've had poor luck staining plywood with solid stock ends (same species)... the plywood always soaks up the stain far too fast, and I can never seem to get a good match no matter how many series of stain I put on the solid pieces.

Process is generally sand with 220, coat all with pre-stain sealer, then stain. Typically, the darker the stain, the worse the match.

Willie T

Plywood requires a conditioner far more than hardwood. Believe me, you aren't alone in trying to get the two to match. Some real art to it that I have yet to master.

Gerry KIERNAN

You've got that right!

Gerry