Need help with angled cuts - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 16 Old 10-24-2016, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Need help with angled cuts

Hi,

I'm looking for some suggestions to a problem I'm having making some 45 degree angle cuts. I have boards that are approximately 1" x 3/4" and 30" long. I need to cut each corner on a 45 degree angle, creating an octagonal piece, 30" long. The cuts have to be crisp and precise. I have tried cutting on a router table and I keep getting scallops and the ends get too much material routed off. I'm looking for a way to make several pieces and wondering if anyone has another idea. I thought about making a V shaped jig to hold the stick under a planer, but not sure this is the best solution. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-24-2016, 08:02 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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first off...




Your 45 degree angle won't form an octagon. You need 67.5 degree angles. Next, are the boards laying flat on their faces OR are they stood on edge?
Finally a router is NOT the machine to use. You should either use a miter saw, chop or slider, OR a table saw with the miter gauge.

You set the miter saw to 22.5 degrees. That will result in a 67.5 degree cut. Cutting a 67.5 angle requires a "sub-fence".
Look this thread over to see how it's done:
Angles and setting on the miter saw

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-24-2016 at 08:32 PM.
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-24-2016, 09:30 PM
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Most motorized miter saws will have a lock at 22 1/2 because it's a very common cut.
If you don't have access to one, you can rent one for 1/2 a day and make your cuts.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-24-2016, 09:32 PM
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If you are needing that quality of cut on your miters I think it would be best done on a table saw rather than a miter box. You would also need a very sharp blade to make the cuts.
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 01:20 AM
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Once you decide on a saw to use and get a precise angle cut make sure that each part is exactly the same length, otherwise you will be chasing your tail forever.

“Everything we hear is an opinion, not a fact. Everything we see is a perspective, not the truth.”
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 07:30 AM
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There is confusion as to what you are trying to do. Are you trying to build an octagon using this wood? Or do you think taking 45 deg off each corner makes that piece into an octagon? I read that you are cutting EACH corner at 45 deg. That is 4 cuts per piece of wood because there are 4 corners.

Or do you mean cut each end at 45 deg?

more information needed.

George
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post #7 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. To clarify...I have a 30" rectangular stick (basically 1" x 3/4") and I need to cut 45 degree angles off each of the 4 corners. So I'm not really making an octagon since all sides are not the same size, but an 8 sided stick. Hope this helps anyone that was unclear what I'm trying to achieve. As I said they need to be very precise and I need to make several of them. Thanks for everyone's help!
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 12:52 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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8 sided "stick"????

Any stick has 2 faces, 2 edges, and 2 ends or 6 sides!

If you are making a rectangle, like a picture frame with "mitered" corners it will look like this:


So, is that what you are doing? If so, just make your angles at 45 degrees. If the project is a rectangle, 2 sides will be longer than the others, unlike a square where all 4 sides are equal length.

If you are making an "8 sided stick" that's not really clear... then are you just sawing a little off the 4 corners at 45 degrees., leaving 2 faces, 2 sides, 2 ends and 4 miters, or a 10 sided stick.

If you are sawing off the corners such that there are no flat ends, just points at 45 degrees, then I understand. You have to find the center of the board, then saw the corners off to meet the centerline.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-25-2016 at 12:59 PM.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 01:08 PM
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If I understand, this bit should do the trick, just set the height to 1/4" and make the cuts. You will need to have all the stock the same size, exactly 1" X 3/4" make the cuts with the 1" faces on the table, flip the board end for end, then do same for other side.

http://www.rockler.com/miniature-chamfer-router-bit

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Last edited by FrankC; 10-25-2016 at 01:11 PM.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 01:09 PM
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No ... guys ... I think ....
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Last edited by mikechell; 10-25-2016 at 01:14 PM.
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post #11 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks mikechell! That is exactly what I'm talking about in your illustration. Thanks for all the other comments and for anyone else that may still have a suggestion!
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkl View Post
Thanks for the responses. To clarify...I have a 30" rectangular stick (basically 1" x 3/4") and I need to cut 45 degree angles off each of the 4 corners. So I'm not really making an octagon since all sides are not the same size, but an 8 sided stick. Hope this helps anyone that was unclear what I'm trying to achieve. As I said they need to be very precise and I need to make several of them. Thanks for everyone's help!
Eight (8) sides in different planes DOES NOT make an octagon. See the figure that Woodsnthings posted.

That explanation just further confuses things.

George
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post #13 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 06:36 PM
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The small dimensions you're working with limit your options. Removing material off the corners of a 1'x3/4" is going to be dangerous with just about any blade.

A table saw will be the worst, but is the best way to cut a 30 inch long straight line. The first two cuts could be done, but the other side will then have much less of a base due to the first two corners that are missing.

If you can mount the router in a table, with a fence, that would probably be the best way, and you could use a roller guided bit to keep the blade exactly in place.

You might be able to make a jig to run the wood across a belt sander to take the corner of. A jig that allows the wood to lay in place, could "Cut" and sand the edges at the same time. I'm not exactly sure how it would be done, but an effect like this.
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 07:24 PM
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Using the chamfer bit I referenced will do the job, no elaborate jigs, just a router in a table.
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post #15 of 16 Old 10-25-2016, 07:47 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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This was a very confusing question

Mike finally read the OP's mind and saw through all the incorrect terminology. A chamfer is exactly the correct term for the desired outcome. A router will perform that operation OR a table saw set over to bevel at 45 degrees. Octagon had nothing to do with this question and sent most of down a dead end road.

You answer will only be as good as the question is specific and properly worded. Forgiveness to granted to a beginner who hasn't a proper grasp of the terms.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #16 of 16 Old 10-27-2016, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for everyone's input! It is much appreciated!
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