Need First Time Router Table Help - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk

tswoodshop · 01-23-2009, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kentuckytwostep

Where do you send them? What is the cost for a normal (roundover, chamfer, straight, ect.) bit?

I assume that a $13 bit probably isn't worth sharpening...

In my opinion, only a good quality micrograin carbide bit is worth the cost of sharpening. I send my bits to Forrest... same folks who make the great saw blades. I forget, think it's $15 a pop for router bits, check their website. I often will wait and send a blade or two, several bits etc and pay one big bill, so forget offhand how it's borken down.

JLincoln · 01-23-2009, 10:01 PM

Tom I would do it freehand for a couple of reasons. First the size of your top. Unless you have a large router table (mine is just an insert in my table saw) I have found that even with a couple of feather boards the size of your table top can make for an awkward cut especially on the end grain when you want more control. If you are worried about confidence in the cut you can try a couple of things that I have used for the same issue.
First, I made an offset base for my router out of 1/2 inch plexiglass (Use your current base for the hole pattern) the width of your base by 10-12". With the router mounted on one end and a secondary handle mounted on the other end you have created a much more stable base to rout the edge.
Also, do the endgrain first and while it shouldn't be a problem with a 1/4" profile don't be afraid to rout the edge in successive passes sneaking up on your depth. That way you can minimize any problems like burning and it allows you to take a "practice lap" around to get a feel for the cut. Good Luck.

Tom5151 · 01-26-2009, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLincoln

Tom I would do it freehand for a couple of reasons. First the size of your top. Unless you have a large router table (mine is just an insert in my table saw) I have found that even with a couple of feather boards the size of your table top can make for an awkward cut especially on the end grain when you want more control. If you are worried about confidence in the cut you can try a couple of things that I have used for the same issue.
First, I made an offset base for my router out of 1/2 inch plexiglass (Use your current base for the hole pattern) the width of your base by 10-12". With the router mounted on one end and a secondary handle mounted on the other end you have created a much more stable base to rout the edge.
Also, do the endgrain first and while it shouldn't be a problem with a 1/4" profile don't be afraid to rout the edge in successive passes sneaking up on your depth. That way you can minimize any problems like burning and it allows you to take a "practice lap" around to get a feel for the cut. Good Luck.

Thanks for your reply and suggestions. I will try them.

I did some practicing this weekend and not nearly as bad I was thinking. I need a lot of practice but no longer as intimidated by the basic operation.

Thanks again,
Tom