Need advice on strengthing dresser - Woodworking Talk

honk · 10-31-2009, 02:36 AM

Hello. I have an antique/old dresser I want to repurpose as a kitchen island

/work surface. While the dresser is solid I want to do what I can to strengthen it as it will be on casters and moving around. Attached are some pictures.

I plan on using wood screws

to provide additional strength to the supports that connect the drawer segments to the frame. I also will add two inches of plywood to the bottom connected via these supports in the back and screwed at an angle into both the front and rear legs. This will require removing the small support currently next to the front legs but I don't think that will be difficult.

I am leaving the original legs since they look nice but will cut off about an inch so that the casters will role freely. The casters will be attached just behind the legs.

The rear panel of the dresser is a thin piece of plywood (3/8") attached by finishing nails. Do you think I should pull this off and put a thicker piece of plywood? If so how thick? Would putting thicker plywood connected by woodscrews to the frame provide greater stability? Another thing I would like to do while the back is off is attach an Accuride Center Mount Slide for each drawer.

I have been considering Corian for the top since it weighs less than granite. Do you think Quartz would be too heavy?

Please let me know if you need additional views to provide suggestions.

Thanks so much for your time.

GeorgeC · 10-31-2009, 07:28 AM

It would help if you gave some dimensions.

Geoge

woodnthings · 10-31-2009, 07:39 AM

Antique dresser repair

I would look at all the structural joints inside and especially on the back of yours. Re glue everything that's loose. and add glue blocks where ever possible. A 3/8" back should be enough, but 1/2" is better if not a whole lot of effort is required and I would attach each drawer rail at the rear from the back with nails or small screws. The back prevents "racking" of the rectangular structure. My main concern with your dresser is the "spindly " legs, and the caster attachment. If it were me, and I know this changes the look, I would use a reinforced plywood bottom and remove the legs flush. Any obstruction on the floor will tend to break the leg joints at the bottom or worse yet depending on the casters, at the stem hole into the bottom of the legs. If this unit become loaded with "stuff" and heavy from the top it will have a lot of inertia when rolled into even a small object.
It will want to keep moving and all the stress will occur at the legs and casters. I went through the drawer glides and redid them all with hardwood and wider support. I also added side rails on the inside of the cabinet for more lateral control of the drawers.
Well, that's enough advice from me, don't you think?

bill

cabinetman · 10-31-2009, 08:18 AM

WELCOME TO THE FORUM

I just have a few suggestions. I would not use the standard tapered 'wood screws'. For better holding power I would use a coarse thread uniform shank screw, like a drywall screw that's threaded all the way to the head. I would check for loose joints, and torque and twist the cabinet to see where there's movement.

I would add a minimum of 1/2" plywood to the inside sides and use side mount full extension slides. The bottom of the cabinet may be just a dust stop, like 1/4" or more, and I would add to it 3/4" plywood glued and screwed. I might add 1/2" plywood, or maybe even 3/4" plywood to the back just because of impact strength.

As for the casters, the legs may look real funny, not touching the floor. You might add the casters to the bottom (see, now you have 3/4" plywood to screw to). Either allow the leg length to be just clear of the floor, or cut it off completely. You might consider redoing the bottom skirt in the style, but high enough (or low enough...however you understand this) to cover most of the caster.

Remember, if the caster is behind the skirting, allow the mounting to account for a 360 degree swivel without hitting the skirt. As for the top, once you have rejuvenated the cabinet, the weight wouldn't be an issue. Once you remove the top, make triangulated gussets for the corners. For what to use, it would be more about what you like. It can be mounted by just using Polyseamseal as a bedding caulk.

ihackwood · 10-31-2009, 09:47 AM

Start by removing the glue blocks in the bottom and gluing in a piece of plywood,

Gerry KIERNAN · 10-31-2009, 10:46 AM

Hi Honk

Welcome. How smooth is your floor? Could you use teflon glides attached to the bottoms of the legs, or would your floor be too uneven. The teflon glides would not alter the overall appearance as much as casters, and would not tend to keep travelling from momentum. Just a thought.

Gerry

honk · 10-31-2009, 01:13 PM

Hi. I wanted to clarify that I do not plan on putting the casters on the bottom of the existing legs. I want to add plywood to the bottom of the dresser connecting to the frame. I would then put a brace at the corners and attach casters with a face place (via screws) Here is a link to the caster I had in mind http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...9NN&lpage=none. There is a decorative apron on the front and the frame on the sides extends two inches below the bottom drawer. I realize that the some of the plywood will be viewable. Since I will be painting the dresser to match a built in hutch I can paint the plywood to make it less noticeable.

The dresser is 20X40. I want to have it be about 35 1/2 inches tall including the countertop material I will be adding.

Thanks for your help.

woodnthings · 10-31-2009, 03:42 PM

Similiar to the ones on my mobile island. Don't forget when the casters swivel they swing out past the edge of the corner unlesss set back in far enough to clear the legs when they swivel.
That's why I suggested removing the legs at the base. It's no longer an antique dresser, so the function should outway the appearance in my opinion. It's a painted horse with "painted" spots. You can see in the photos what I'm referring to.

bill
BTW The inspriation for this mobile island came from a 24" deep cabinet that was leftover after a design change and had no "home". The top cost more than the cabinet.....

BTW II With a width of only 20" you should absolutely have the casters as far outboard as possible to prevent tipping. Another reason for removing the legs at the base. JMO...

honk · 10-31-2009, 09:15 PM

Hi. Thanks so much to everyone for the advice so far. In regards to adding plywood to the interior sides; how should this be done? The side of the dresser is thin so I can't nail or screw into that. Should this be glued in, or screwed by angling the screw into the frame at the front and back?

In regards to caster placement. From the bottom of the dresser to where the sides end is 1 3/4". I had planned on adding 1 3/4" of plywood. In order to place casters at the corners I would need to cut the legs off at this level. In order to maintain counter height however I would need to gain another 2 inches. How would you do this? Since I will be using the plate face casters I need something at least 1 3/4" wide. Would you add a piece of wood for each corner or a piece of wood that would reached from the front to the back? Since this is to add space above the caster I could possibly add a trim to the sides to cover up the plywood.

Thanks for your time.

woodnthings · 10-31-2009, 11:45 PM

Namely to the top and to the bottom....heh...heh...
You didn't say what the overall height of the piece is from the existing top to the intersection of the skirt where the leg is being cutoff, I assume. What are we talking here? A 3/4" piece on the bottom will get you some height, lacking an inch, right? You don't have to build up the entire bottom with layers of plywood just to get the height. Consider a piece of hardwood on either side 1" thick and wide enough for your caster base. If you make everything "flush" across the bottom with the skirt, my choice, you use the existing leg to screw at least one caster screw into so you can move the casters out almost to the corners. You should add a skirt rail across the back or run the back down flush to the skirt. The back should be "finished" with a suitable hardwood panel 1/4", or use a hardwood ply to reinforce the back, since it will show.
If the piece is still not tall enough, and I'm not sure why you need 35 1/2", it's not necessary to be exactly countertop height for a work surface. but whatever, you can double up some ply on the top.
Or you can make a curved front rail and sides forming a hollow area under the top if you need additional height. Lot's of extra work there. Then let the Corian hang over 1/2" or so on all 4 sides. The height issue is the toughest one as far as I can see. I'd just let it work out to the Corian, plus the dresser, plus the casters and that's it. JMO

bill

cabinetman · 11-01-2009, 05:01 AM

I've been thinking about your project. I've done my share of conversions and re-purposing of old furniture. If this cabinet HAS to be used for some sentimental reason, or because it matches up to some other furniture, I can understand that.

I'm sure you like the bow front design. Without seeing the drawer fronts or the actual condition of the drawers or exterior woodwork (which could be another headache), you might be better off in the long run just to start with making a new cabinet. Then, you could just use the old cabinet as it is if you choose (while preserving any historical value).

With all that you will go through to re-vitalize this cabinet, you would have a better cabinet starting from scratch with the materials of your choice. In this particular case, after thinking about all the modifying necessary, that's what I would do. If you decide to make a new cabinet, and send the old one to the heap, you might be able to re-configure some of the parts and re-use them like the fluted corners.

Shamus · 11-01-2009, 06:49 AM

Just my 2¢ here but if it was my project I’d build a new case and use the existing as a template for size, Recreate the flutes on all four legs. The only part I’d keep would be the drawers, provided they are sound enough to hold the weight of whatever you plan on putting inside them.
That way you can add metal drawer slides and have assurance the entire structure will withstand moving with whatever weight will be added to the chest, Pots, pans, etc.

woodnthings · 11-01-2009, 07:43 AM

Based on that, "What can we suggest to strengthen the piece." I did not get the impression he wanted to duplicate the look in a new piece, just
reinforce this one to make it suitable for the intended purpose.
Having recently done this to an antique dresser, it's a "fair" amount of work but a whole lot less than building a new piece.
There should be room on the interior to add commercial slides, either on the bottom or on the sides. The structure should be strong enough with a new back of 1/2", the bottom with a piece of 3/4" and reinforcing glue block where ever possible on the interior. The curved from presents an real challenge to duplicate without special tools and skills. JMO I think this is a "doable" project and keeps the intent of the OP.

Here's some photos of my "reconstruction:

woodnthings · 11-02-2009, 12:35 AM

Your dresser is very narrow, only 20". A better depth would be 24" to 30", to prevent tipping. Why not add a separate cabinet say 4"or 6" to the back which would strengthen it as well as add additional storage for items such as linens, spices, cookie sheets, kitchen tools, spatulas, measuring cups etc.etc. It could be open shelves or closed with doors to match the style of the front. Then the casters can be moved out to the added dimension for more stability. The height of the added cabinet can be at the desired finished height sans counter top, Corian. The plywood base can run underneath to support both units. The difference in height can be a storage space above the dresser for narrow or thin objects, cutting boards, silverware trays etc. You now have the additional storage under the Corian and on the back. I realize this is somewhat short of making an entirely new carcass, and more work, but still keeps the original construction and look of the dresser. Just a thought.

bill

honk · 11-02-2009, 01:30 PM

I understand your comments about tipping. My main plan is to create more countertop space. My kitchen is bisected by a large bank of windows (8 x 6) that are flanked on both sides by cabinets. When I redid the kitchen I did not want to loose the large window (relatively new) nor did I want the expense of the external repairs and the cost of buying new windows to fit above cab/counter. What I plan to do is park the island in the center of the windows. I want to put it on casters so: I can move it to one side or the other for work space; to have easy access to open the windows (they are the kind that crank out; I think casters are less likely to scrape the hardwood floors than a slider. I am not planning on moving it around that much so as long as the countertop material is not too heavy I think the stability should be fine.

frankp · 11-03-2009, 08:09 AM

I'm not sure I understand why you think there needs to be any kind of reinforcement for this. From the looks of that piece, it will be more than sufficient to act as a kitchen "island" and other than adding casters, I don't know what you think needs reinforcement. If it's not stable, that's another matter, but adding weight by reinforcing with heavier ply isn't going to make a stability difference more than just tightening up joints would.

I like the idea of re-using the piece, and the only thing I see as a problem would be the ply on the bottom for the casters making it lose some aesthetic appeal. As for the weight of a counter top, if the wood isn't rotten it will hold whatever top you want to put on it.

woodnthings · 11-03-2009, 05:11 PM

There is only a dust shield on the bottom of this dresser 1/4" thin, I'm guessing. Not enough to screw a caster into. Hence the posts that suggest a layer of 3/4" ply on the bottom and a thicker piece than 1/4" for the back. I just finished a very similar restoration, see MY pictures, not to be confused with the OP's pictures. and I did a lot of internal reinforcements. The old joints had worked their way loose and required glue blocks and new dust shields throughout. I don't think "added weight" is an issue here. The dresser will be moved occasionaly and that puts strain on the caster fastners and the sides when being pushed around. And since a rectanglular box tends to "fold" as you know, unless one side, in this case the rear, is securely fastened to the sides and to the drawer frame supports in the back.

bill

honk · 11-03-2009, 08:51 PM

The existing joints seem solid to me. At this point I am planning on adding 1/2" ply to the inside walls as well as the back. Building up the distance from the bottom of the piece to the level of the side panel by adding 3/4"ply over the entire bottom; strips of 3/4" running from the front to the back, and strip of 1/4" luan. I will dry fit before attaching to make sure it will be the right height.

frankp · 11-04-2009, 10:26 AM

woodnthings, yes I saw the picture. Other than the thin dust shield (I didn't know they were called that) being an issue for the casters, it looks like a reasonably solid piece with no obviously loose joints (from the pics). I was just saying that the 3/4" ply for casters wouldn't be aesthetically pleasing, though it probably would be necessary because those legs won't like casters (I know from personal experience). This is actually very similar to a couple of antique dressers I have and the legs all have those tiny antique casters. I've broken a couple of the legs catching the casters in cracks etc.

So, the aesthetics is what I was saying would be a "problem" not so much the engineering aspects of adding the 3/4 ply.

woodnthings · 11-04-2009, 12:49 PM

If the small glue blocks are removed and replaced with a full size piece of 3/4" for the bottom. The ply will act as "glue blocks" on the perimeter frame. Additionally the vision angle, line of sight, from above will pretty much obscure it. So I'm not understanding your aesthetics issue.

bill