TomC

I have my first 2 cabinets ready for to install drawer guides. I built the cabinets using a design in Wood magazine. It mounts the drawer slides at the face frame and at the back of the cabinet using a rear mounting bracket. I went out to purchase drawer slides and could not locate any rear mounting brackets and was advised against using them. I've order (internet) the number I need to complete my first two cabinets. My next cabinet will have all drawers. Should I build these so that I can install the runners on the side or do the rear mount hold up OK? These cabinets are for use in my shop.

cabinetman

I never liked the rear mounts. Fastening at the front, and at the rear, leaves the rest of the slide unsupported. I would cut filler strips of wood to flush out the gap to the edge of the face frame. Much better way to install, and nothing else to buy.

red

I don't like those brackets mounted in the back of the cabinet. The best way is to use filler strips to come flush with the face frame and now you can attach the drawer slide all along it's length. Post some pics when you have it all done.

Red

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Gerry KIERNAN

I also would vote for the side mounted guides. Much stronger I should think.

Gerry

GeorgeC

Do not forget full extension.

G

TomC

I guess nobody like rear mounts. Looks like I need to add some supports to mount the guides to the side. Thanks for the input. I will add pictures when completed.
TomC

skymaster

Tom; Normaly the slide need a 1/2 space so extend your frame 1/2 into the box so when u add 1/2 strip for the filler it makes the slide even

Gravel7

I think the side mounts are far superior.
I built new drawers and fronts for my inlaws and did exactly what cabinetman suggested. Worked beautifully that way.

edp

I like the rear mount brackets and use them on almost every project I have built that required drawers. One thing I may do differently than most though, is I use 3/4" material for my backs so I have something substantial to mount the brackets to. Different strokes for different boats.

Ed

pianoman

Full extension glides are all I use...unless I make my own out of wood. Rick

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TomC

Ed,
Looks like you are the only one that likes rear mounts. I am going to use them on my first two cabinets as I had already ordered them. Also, I had already mounted a 3/4" piece of plywood at the back of the cabinet to install the rear mount. I will try side mount on the other cabinets. Thanks for the input .
TomC

edp

It is not odd to find me on the opposite side of the fence on most subjects. I build for function and ease of application. I am not concerned about what the he-men woodworkers of yesteryear would have done. I am convinced that any that were worth their salt would take advantage of and explore every opportunity that presented itself. Pad out the sides to support the drawer glides? No way, use the rear mounting brackets and spend the money/time you save on an extra crate of beer. If you are interested, I have a nearly fool proof way of doing the installation. No messy layout or cutting of fixtures.

Ed

cabinetman

Many slides require 1/2" spacing and an extra 1/32" per side to the sidewall of the carcass or to where the cabinet member attaches. If the filler strip flushes out to the edge of the face frame where the cabinet member attaches, you still need 1/2" plus 1/32" (17/32") from that point to the outside of the drawer box. The drawer box should be 1 1/16" narrower than the width of the opening between where the cabinet members attach.

Some slides require more space than that. Check the details for the slides to be used before doing any fabrication of carcasses or drawers. Just my .02 cents.

cabinetman

With all due respect, it's interesting that you brought it up. I was wondering about that myself.


With all due respect, I'm one of those he-men of yesteryear. I'm not surprised that you're not concerned. I'm sure the other he-men of yesteryear like myself have explored and tried every opportunity because we have been at it long enough. We are worth our salt as we learn by our methods and mistakes what traditional woodworking teaches us.


A front and back connection leaves most all the slide unsupported. The average user may not be as careful as you or I when opening and closing drawer slides done this way. During the sliding action there are side forces along the way, and some could be very strong, that will affect the hardware and may cause failure. With all due respect, as for the beer, each of us has our own set of priorities as to what's important and what's not.


With all due respect... fool proof...who is the fool, the client? There are some shortcuts and methods that in my opinion differ from other he-men of yesteryear. Ya know, we he-men of yesteryear can't agree on everything. But maybe what's important to point out to the client, and newcomers to this craft is what is going on behind "closed doors" and "drawer fronts" for that matter. I just can't see explaining to the client how I saved money and time with questionable work. It would be like delivering custom work but there's a secret I just won't divulge to the customer. Isn't that what used car salesmen do?

TomC

Ed,
I am interested in your method of installation. I will be installing the guides on Monday after the UPS guy get here.
Thanks,
TomC

cabinetman

What comes to mind is the saying that goes something like this: "You can lead a horse to water..."

With the advice you chose to follow, I'd like to offer a suggestion which you can choose not follow. Cut a section of wood about 2" long the height of the cabinet member slide and the thickness of the space between the carcass and the cabinet member. Fasten it to the carcass somewhere in the middle of the length of the slide. Screw one of the middle screws of the slide to the section of wood to stabilize the slide.

Now if that's too much trouble, just drill a hole in the middle of the section of wood, and use it as a spacer with a screw long enough to go through the cabinet member slide, through the section of wood, and into the carcass. Make sure it won't poke through the outside of the carcass.

TomC

Thank Cabinetman. That sound simple enough even for a beginner like me.
TomC

WoodRic

For what little my opinion is worth:
I had a full kitchen full of (purchased) cabinets that had rear supports on the drawer glides. Within a couple of years of normal use, the brackets in the back started breaking. I found myself spending a lot of time trying to put new ones in the rear of the box.

I vowed with those that I'd never have another set of cabinets built that cheap again.

I'm also "now" starting to gear up to build my own.
THAT's how much I don't like the standard commercial grade cabinets, and how much I enjoy working with wood. :)

timbrennan01824

I'm building/designing everything with the actions of my 2-yr old in mind. If it can't handle a couple of yanks from a 35-lb gorilla with the common sense and attention span of a pea, it isn't worth my time. It certainly isn't worth 2 crates of beer to have to do over again.