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Levelling a Stump

3K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  Tamason28 
#1 ·
Hi, Everyone. I am making a table with a tree stump as a pedestal, but I can't seem to get the bottom of the stump level to save my life. No matter what I do, the thing is unstable - it rocks back and forth when I push on it. I don't have any big power tools, so I've been using a small spokeshave, a card scraper, and sandpaper to try to even it out. Does anyone have any ideas how I can get the stump to sit evenly? I'm new to woodworking, so I can use all the help I can get!
 
#3 ·
With limited tools perhaps just add feet to it so you have to only work on them to get it to sit solidly. They can be be very shallow and will not be really noticeable, the shape of the trunk may determine how many you use, three will be self leveling but will tip easily.
 
#5 ·
Adjustable feet. Appliance feet.

If that stump isn't fully dry (below 10% moisture content) it's going to move anyways later.
Even if it is below 10% humidity changes will effect it.
It's just the nature of gnarly wood.
In other words, you don't have a choice.

Next, if that stump isn't bone dried (less than 2%ish) or kiln dried to 130 degrees for many days you can have bug issues.
(not good)
Trust that this kind of wood isn't to be taken lightly about critters.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Agreed with the adjustable feet and you can buy them cheap at big orange and blue. Then it's just a matter of having a drill a hammer and the ability to turn the feet by hand which you very likely have.
Available at home depot for under $2
 
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#7 ·
How big is the stump?
I like the suggestion to add feet. With just 3, it can't wobble. Add a fourth and the adjustment will still be quickly done.

The other advantage is to get the base of the stump up off the floor or ground or whatever.
Otherwise, some wood moisture will be trapped under the stump. Most times go moldy, too
and leave a gross stain (if it's stone or bare concrete).
 
#8 · (Edited)
In keeping with the rustic look ...

Cut off some 3" branches about 1/2" thick into round biscuits. Cut some slightly different thicknesses plus or minus 1/16" inches. Place 3 of them under the stump using the different thicknesses until the stump won't rock. There you have it! :surprise2:
Mark which ones go where and glue them on.
 
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#9 ·
Cut off some 3" branches about 1/2" thick into round biscuits. Cut some slightly different thicknesses plus or minus 1/16" inches. Place 3 of them under the stump using the different thicknesses until the stump won't rock. There you have it! :surprise2:
Mark which ones go where and glue them on.
Bill a three-legged anything will not rock. :smile3:
 
#11 ·
Again, I can't stress enough about the moisture content and bug killing.
Both are critical.

The moisture to stabilize movement in the base.
The bug kill to stop movement of bugs into your house and possible damage to other woods in the house (like furniture and house framing).

The feet are a minor issue and adjustables are the way to go on a stump that is inherently unstable.
 
#12 ·
I'm with Aard on the bug killing, there is TOOOOOOOOOO MUUUUUUCH reclaim, fresh cut, repurposed, etc, etc going into homes that haven't been treated in any way and MANY pest are going to appear.

The moisture content is important BUT as a large base that may not be truly possible due to thickness and drying internally. I WOULD NOT bring in green and fresh, BUT how long and proper way to dry I haven't a correct answer. I have some drying ??? now but most are hollow so the drying is totally differ as thin walls dry more balanced IF set up right for airing.

On a large stump I push sterilizing over MC BUT that's still a fine line in my opinion.
 
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#20 ·
How do you sterilize your wood at home? I have a few reasons for using "found wood", the chief one being that it is free and easy to come by (I live in the city, but near the woods, and I also come across pruned and felled trees in the neighbourhood). I just can't afford to buy good quality lumber right now. I also love the look of rustic furniture, and I want to learn how to work with wood from a raw state. I hope I can learn how to prevent bug issues, too...
 
#23 ·
Most insect species can endure cold/harsh winter temperatures IF, and I say IF, they get enough time to alter their biochemistry (some can make ethylene glycol/antifreeze, such as ants & beetles).
However, pop that lump of wood into your deep freeze for a week. Then let it thaw for a 7-10 days. Then into the freezer again for a week. The bugs can't catch up to the sudden temp swings.
Repeated freeze/thaw cycles work quite well.
 
#24 ·
I'm hoping this isn't a tall table.....10" dia is not very stable unless 10" high. Definitely not big enough for dining table.

Home sterilizing This requires a heat source that can maintain approx 150 deg output and a sealed chamber to encompass the piece(s) to be sterilized. The reason I state 150 output is the enclosed area HAS to be minimum of 130 deg and held at that for 24 hrs to penetrate to the wood's center,,,, the thicker takes longer.

The Aard uses a small home set-up which he has a thread here about it.

As with many home remedies there are also safety issues due to most haven't been set-up with overload switches for overheating or fire. Yes I use a homemade setup BUT I have factory products with limit switches for safety. I can speak on this due to I did one with a set-up that melted down and near fire....I now push safety alertness. I used a older heater section/part that the overload wasn't built in with it but on another part I didn't have.Most small heaters built now for home use have I believe a 110 deg build up limit for safety (like if the area close to it built up that high it shuts off)
 
#25 · (Edited)
The small space heaters I use are under 1500 watts. A 20a circuit can handle a good 2200 watts +. They generally are run at the 800 watt setting until bug kill time where the temp MUST be over 130 degrees for at least 24 hours, (And if your piece is thick, a much much longer time).
overload protection isn't the issue.
See the "cheap kiln" thread for more info.

And as stated, it's not the bugs going into the wood, it the ones coming out. You can't necessarily see them but likely they are there, especially on a root piece. They may stay in there for years as long as the wood is their food sources. Then they'll move on.
There are chemical methods for bug kill, but I'm not up on those methods, but still you need the piece dried and stabilized.

Don't even bother with feet at this point. The piece will move and shift while drying and you'll be starting over. If you just let it air dry (which I don't recommend) the piece will move for years.
If you seal coat it before drying the drying time lengthens.
 
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