Well, let's see, where were we? Oh, I know. When we last spoke I was busy showing you guys how NOT to do things by using poor glueing technique and impatience to blow a joint apart.
I was awake until almost 1:30 this morning and then I got up at 7:15 to continue this project. Headed out to the shop and cut off all of the dove tails that were done yesterday. I then repeated the whole process and remade all of the inlays that I ruined. Plenty of glue used this time I tell ya. To make sure that no impatience was to be had, I went out with a friend of mine for coffee and 3 hours later, I returned to the shop.
I had mentioned yesterday, that when you trim the walnut inlay material, there would be a 1/8" overhang. I didn't have a photo of this, but through the magic of screwing up and having to redo things, I was able to get a photo of it.
This overhang is important because without it, the continuous line of inlay around the dove tails will be broken making it look incomplete.
At this point in time, we are ready to rout our pin boards. We have successfully routed our tail boards, complete with our inlay material firmly glued in place. We have rotated our finger board assembly to the pins position, and have set the scale to the readings that you have recorded in your manual from other testing. Unlike doing regular through dove tails, where the depth of the bit is set to the thickness of the box walls, when using inlays, we must set the bit depth to the thickness of the inlay material. The straight bit is used for this and you can see here that I have drawn a line on the pin board for reference and I am also double checking that the inlay thickness matches this line and the router bit depth.
Routing the pins is the next step and it is important to take your time here. We don't want any blow outs. Step routing is the way to go here, taking small passes the avoid large amounts of material removal. Make a light pass across the front and then you can rout completely through one side and take a light pass on the back side of the pin board. This will ensure a crisp edge, even is there is a little chip out. From this point, you can continue to take light passes until all of the material is removed. Check for fit, and if you are happy with it, rout all of your pins, remembering that your symbols that you previously marked on the boards must be facing outward.
You can see a few rough edges here on the pins, but that is nothing that a light sanding wont cure. Remember not to sand too much at this point as we don't want to change the shape or size of the pins.
With a light sanding done for all parts, you should have your 2 pin boards and your 2 tail boards, complete with inlays, ready for final assembly.