User3489

This is my first attempt at glueing a table top together. When I jointed the boards ( 7 ) they all turned out like bannas. Either the ends were apart or the center is open. Obvously I need traing on the jointer.
Anybody have some tips on succesfull jointing ?
Thanks Tom

PS This jointer scares the bejesus out of me. I had a bad kickback with it and now I only use it if I have no choise.

Basser425

I just started using an older Craftsman jointer this past December...never used one before...from a neby standpoint...yes it seems scarry and loud. BUT...take really small bites with many multiple passes. Use 2 hold downs to hold the wood down on the outfeed side of the table and to push the wood on the infeed side. I tried jointing 8-9 foot rough cut hardwoods and THAT was a experience. You REALLY have to have a helper or in and out feed supports. Joint pieces 2-4" longer than you need, cut off the excess after jointing. My quess is that the boards were NOT laying flat throughout the entire length as you ran them through the jointer...that will cause the banana edging you described.
Other more experienced craftsm,an will undoubtable add to this.
Try working with a piece 2-4' in length to start.
Andy

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Dean Miller

sounds like you didn't accomplish one good face before you stood them up to joint the edges. As above small bites at a time until all wood is new looking and you can lay it against the fence with no gaps, then turn it up and do the edges holding it flush against the fence and onto the outfeed table. If there is a hump in the middle or the ends you can switch back and forth to tease them down before running full length to keep from having to plane so much off to reach level. Hope I didn't confuse things, I'm not the last work on this either. Dean

jeffreythree

Maintain even pressure over the whole cut. I found I pressed harder in the middle of the cut, leaving gaps in the middle of the joint during glue up. Actually, a very small(tiny) gap in the centers help keep the edges pressed closed in the glued up panel.

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Leo G

take your board and look down it. Determine the crown side and put the convex side down. Balance it so the gap is the same front and back as best possible. Push the board through and maintain pressure on the outfeed table. I usually set it to remove 1/16". If it is setup perfect you will get a straight board. When gluing up it is not critical that you have a perfect straight board, just that you have a linear edge that is square. The clamps and glue should take care of the rest. You should never have to put a lot of pressure on the clamps to close the joint. If you do then you need more practice.

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skymaster

Tom; Lets backup fer a minute, make sure the power is OFF, get a straightedge, a 4' level will do fine, LOWER the infeed table until it clears the outfeed table, hold the level solid on outfeed side and slowly raise the infeed side till it just touches, NOW get a good look over the length of the level and make sure the tables are co-linear, as in STRAIGHT LINE If either table is drooping then you have to get the jointer adjusted. If they are strait then leave it set just as it is, now get some practice lumber, fire it up, SLOWLY raise the infeed side until you hear it just starting to cut, shut down and check to see where the ZERO mark is to the pointer, mark whatever ya gotts so u know where it is, next take small cuts and run board thru ON the FLAT first, You have to make one face flat b4 u can do good edges, use push blocks, 1/32 at a cut is fine, once you get a full flat face cut then u referance from it, lower table back to zero, now start again 1/32 at a cut doing the edge this time, A few times like this and you will start to get the hang of it

firehawkmph

Leo,
I usually start with the opposite edge(concave). After a few passes where I get a continuous cut, I eye it up and check to see if it is straight. If it is straight, I take it to the table saw and run the straight side against the fence and rip the other edge straight. Now I have a board with both edges parallel. Then go back to the jointer and make a pass if necessary to clean up the sawcut.
PS, Tom, what kind of jointer are you using and what happened that led up to the kickback?
Mike Hawkins

Leo G

I was taught to do it the waythat you said. But over the years I have found that doing it the way I described was easier for me. Plus, when I face boards I do the same thing. When you send it through the planer the fat part of the wood is on either end, not in the middle. So you don't have a surprise when the board gets thicker and jams in the planer.

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User3489

Hi Mike: I have an older Rockwell unit that I refurbished. I was plaining 1/4" x 2" cedar strips and I must have not been watching the grain because about 1/4 of the way throught one piece, the strip just blew up. My wife spent about 1 hour taking slivers out of me.
I never thought a 1HP jointer could do that.
Thanks for all the feed back. Tom

GeorgeC

Are you really saying one quarter (1/4) inch? If so, in my opinion that is just too small (thin) a board to be working with on a jointer. No wonder you are having problems.

G

firefighteremt153

one of the woodworking magazines that i just got this past week has a really good write up on how to use the jointer properly. i cant remember what magazine and i cant go check b/c im at work. maybe someone else will chime in on the name.

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Dvoigt

I recently pick up a nice jointer from Craigslist... I can't get a good sraight pass (or series of passes). I need to spend some time with it fine tuning the adjustments of the outfeed table relative to the cutter head. I have alot of wood to practice on, just short on time.

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firehawkmph

Tom,
Cedar is very soft to say the least. I have had a few pieces come apart but not as bad as you describe. Not to mention the super fine splinters you get just from handling it. Also, when getting ready to run wood across the jointer, take a good look at it and see what way the grain is going, any knots in the cutting path, etc. Sometimes just flipping it end for end will make a big difference. If you have a knot in the way, (talking about cedar) I probably wouldn't send it across the jointer. Cedar knots are usually loose and sometimes fall out on their own just from a little vibration. When they hit the cutterhead, no telling where they will end up.
Like the others said, if you aren't trying to take too large a cut, and the blades are sharp, something may be wrong with the feed mechanism. I would call the place where you got it from and see about exchanging it.
Mike Hawkins

nostrildamus

If you ripped these pieces from a larger blank they might "banana" as the internal stresses in the grain are released. Next time rough cut them oversize, let them equilibrate for a week in your shop, then joint/plane them.

the miz

As mentioned earlier, always take small increments at a time. Depending on the straighness of the piece i will take about 1/32 at a time. Also, it helps to have sharp knives in your jointer and carbide if possible. I'm starting to create some video how to's and this will go on my list. Keep watching, I hope to have them out in a month or two.

GeorgeC

"Like the others said, if you aren't trying to take too large a cut, and the blades are sharp, something may be wrong with the feed mechanism. I would call the place where you got it from and see about exchanging it.
Mike Hawkins"

Mike, what am I missing here? What kind of feed mechanism is there on a jointer?

George

Geoguy

I think that was the latest issue of "Wood" Magazine. It had an article on jointer testing and another article on jointer use.

firefighteremt153

i think you are correct geo

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Boardman

Tom -

I can say with complete confidence that there's not anything wrong with the set-up of the tables on your jointer. Basser hit the nail on the head - the problem with edge jointing long boards is the weight that's hanging off the infeed and outfeed tables. Even though you may think you're keeping the board level, the weight makes the far end of the board dip down, resulting in a banana board. I first found this out jointing some 10" wide 8 foot oak boards.

Think about it - if you had 8' long infeed and outfeed tables there's no way this could happen as the wood would be fully supported all the way. One solution is to have roller supports beyond the infeed and outfeed tables, but they'd have to be EXACTLY at the height of the corresponding table.

I got frustrated with the long oak boards and ended up putting a straight edge on the face of the board along the jointed edge and marking off the areas near the ends that were the problem. Then I took that part off by hand, enough to allow the clamps to close the entire jointed edge.

gharvey

The pieces you are jointing are rather small and you have to be sure to use push sticks. I nipped my finger on a jointer once and it isn't pretty. When jointing you should walk the piece from the infeed to the out feed side and not try to do it by leaning or standing still. Keep even pressure when you start out. A little gap in the middle is acceptable as it creates a "spring" joint when glueing. There are other ways to joint if this is scaring you. You can use a router table or a router with a straight bit with a bearing and a straight edge. Popular Woodworking had a series of articles on tools and safely using them by Marc Adams that was very good. Use the 3 and 12 inch rule. Never use a jointer or planer on pieces less than 12in. long and never get you hands closer than 3 in. from any blade. This is the bible according to Marc.