How would you make this piece ? - Woodworking Talk

**Daren** · 07-20-2008, 05:52 PM

Say you were restoring an antique and you had to replicate a missing piece to match one you have as an example (first picture). Assuming you have a fully equipped woodworking shop, how would you make this piece in the pictures ? How long would it take you to set up and make it ?

Now for a bonus how do you think I made it (what tools) ?

The original piece in the pictures will be stripped and stained to match the new piece, the whole cabinet is that color now. The second picture the stain is still wet, the 3rd is just a quick shot of lacquer to see how the color looks. This question is not about finishing, just fabrication of missing parts and everyones different approach.

cabinetman · 07-20-2008, 06:09 PM

Right off the top of my head, probably either a "V" groove, or "sign lettering" router bit as seen on this page.

I would do it on a router table using the fence for setting up the passes. Then sand to match up the profile.

joesdad · 07-20-2008, 06:31 PM

Multiple passes on the table saw with the blade set to whatever angle those things are, then knock the edge off with a sanding block..?

Trappeur · 07-20-2008, 06:48 PM

You ripped a dowl in half and replaced the whole piece?

Or your luck was with you that day and you found another piece at a yard sale exactly like this whatever it is and just replaced....

What is that thing anyway?

Trapp

**Daren** · 07-20-2008, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trappeur

What is that thing anyway?

Just a missing piece from an 1887 treadle sewing machine I am restoring for a lady, the pictures are "before". One of the many (too many right now

) antiques I have in the shop in various stages of repair. I totally disassemble them, reproduce any missing parts, put them back together like new

. Kinda a rainy day hobby/job when I can't run the mill. I enjoy the work, the pay is not so hot but it can be downright challenging at times...that is the part I like. This little missing piece is an example of why I like it, figuring out ways to do things.

So far the I think all the ways suggested would work. But no one is close to my method yet.

FXST01 · 07-20-2008, 07:43 PM

I would have done it with a V groove and router table (as cabinetman said)

Trappeur · 07-20-2008, 07:45 PM

Thats unbelievable I didn't recognize that....Up until 5 years ago practically my whole life was spent on a sewing machine very similar to that one of which I still use mine....You just can't replace a machine like that...It will still be running after I'm gone.

Trappeur

smitty1967 · 07-20-2008, 07:48 PM

ah, so Daren....are you going to tell us how you did it?

smitty

**Daren** · 07-20-2008, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smitty1967

Daren....are you going to tell us how you did it?

Soon Smitty, I just want to know how others use their tools/minds. I won't drag it out though, I will tell in a few minutes ?

Trappeur · 07-20-2008, 08:05 PM

That piece kinda looks like a keyboard we type off of.....Something to do with that?

Trapp

Terry Beeson · 07-20-2008, 09:59 PM

I'd-a dun it with my bare teeth....

OK... OK... the router trick is the first to come to mind... second would be a rabbeter.... passes with a tablesaw would work... a rasp....

Isn't there a hand plane that does that kind of work?

**Daren** · 07-20-2008, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daren

Assuming you have a fully equipped woodworking shop, how would you make this piece in the pictures ? How long would it take you to set up and make it ?
Now for a bonus how do you think I made it (what tools) ?

.

Tools: Straight edge, stick ruler (optional), pencil, backsaw, sharp chisel.

Set up: 1 minute to dig through the proper drawers.

Execution: Lay out the lines, cut to depth with the backsaw (eyeball, gotta have a good eye though) Use the chisel to cut into the kerf of the saw at 45 degrees, a sharp chisel is like a knife through butter. We have a couple close with the sanding block on my technique, clean the grooves with a block and sandpaper.

Time: 20 minutes +

joesdad · 07-20-2008, 10:09 PM

lol! As soon as I read the word backsaw I was already thinking "Damn you Daren!" If you told me I had to do it in twenty minutes I'd break it out, but in a normal scenario I'd drop it off at a buddy's shop and flip him some beer money to have it for me by the end of the day on my way home.

I think getting four equal sides on one of those "buttons" with a chisel would be the challenge to me.
But like you said, a well sharpened chisel is invaluable.

**Daren** · 07-21-2008, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joesdad

I think getting four equal sides on one of those "buttons" with a chisel would be the challenge to me.

I just got them "close" the block and sandpaper did the trick.

cabinetman · 07-21-2008, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daren

Say you were restoring an antique and you had to replicate a missing piece to match one you have as an example (first picture). Assuming you have a fully equipped woodworking shop, how would you make this piece in the pictures ?

A fully equipped shop should have a router/table, and "V" bits, which would be a preferred method. And, would be a faster way. But, to maintain some form of the "handmade look", a TK DT or backsaw, and a chisel would do the trick alright.

A better chisel for the job in lieu of using a straight chisel, would be a "bruzz", or also called a "corner chisel":
.

.
There are also better shaped chisels for doing those kind of projects. I had these crank neck chisels before I had a fully equipped shop:
.

**Daren** · 07-21-2008, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabinetman

A fully equipped shop should have a router/table, and "V" bits, which would be a preferred method. And, would be a faster way.

I don't know about faster ? That is why I brought it up as a point of discussion. Dig out the right router bit, chuck it up, set the correct height (I would do a test pass on a scrap piece). Mess with the fence between passes. A guy would still most likely have to sand, probably not as much though. I used an 1 1/2" wide chisel, stuck one corner down and rocked it into the cut. So I cut more than one button at a time.

cabinetman · 07-21-2008, 07:34 AM

Thinking about the chisel and straightedge, using the straightedge, a straight pass with a chisel would help eliminate any cupping or gouging. Whaddya think?

Nate1778 · 07-21-2008, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabinetman

A fully equipped shop should have a router/table, and "V" bits, which would be a preferred method. And, would be a faster way. But, to maintain some form of the "handmade look", a TK DT or backsaw, and a chisel would do the trick alright.

A better chisel for the job in lieu of using a straight chisel, would be a "bruzz", or also called a "corner chisel":

If it were a fully equipped shop I would put the drawing in CAD, upload it to my CNC router, then drink beer, with the fully stocked fridge in the fully stocked shop..........

Terry Beeson · 07-21-2008, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nate1778

If it were a fully equipped shop I would put the drawing in CAD, upload it to my CNC router, then drink beer, with the fully stocked fridge in the fully stocked shop..........

Me too, Nate.... MEEE TOOOOO!!!!

John in Tennessee · 07-21-2008, 07:52 PM

in my bathroom..