how can I repair split panel? - Woodworking Talk

one19 · 06-04-2009, 02:31 PM

Hey there. I'm an amateur sawdust-maker with a bit of a challenge...

I purchased an antique file cabinet from the Broadmoor Hotel in Colorado Springs, Colorado. It's in good condition overall, but the top (a quarter-inch thick panel of oak) is split the length of the panel, in the grain direction. It's been this way for a while because I can't push the the 2 halves of the crack back into register -- not even close! Does anyone have advice on how to fix this without taking the carcass apart to get to the panel? I'd hate to disassemble the piece because the joints are SET! Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Roger Newby · 06-04-2009, 03:25 PM

Go to the forestry & milling forum you'll see a topic titled I like crotches by Daren he show some dutchmen or bowties used to close up splits.

Roger

Gary Beasley · 06-04-2009, 03:35 PM

Did you get this to use or for it's value as an antique?
If the crack is reasonably straight you might be able to run a router over the crack and inlay some matching wood. it might take sanding and refinish to blend the colors.

one19 · 06-04-2009, 05:07 PM

I got it cuz it looks great and I love old oak cabinets, especially ones with many drawers... this one only has 4 but I love library cabinets, apothecary boxes and the like... i'll try to get a photo up tomorrow...

I'm prepared to do what I have to do to repair this crack cuz it's plain to see and I prolly can't place anything on top of the unit without making the split worse... my wife will prolly kill me, but I'm not real concerned with affecting its value...

woodnthings · 06-04-2009, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Beasley

Did you get this to use or for it's value as an antique?
If the crack is reasonably straight you might be able to run a router over the crack and inlay some matching wood. it might take sanding and refinish to blend the colors.

This is a great challenge and I love to do things like this myself.

Before I got too far along with the router idea, which I like by the way, I would want to know is there an obstruction somewhere in the crack to prevent it from closing up? Have you tried using bar clamps to squeeze the joint together? I'd check this out first before going any further. You don't want to break the other joints on the cabinet this way so proceed carefully. If you have no luck closing the gap then here's my recommendation: Glue a backer piece of plywood up from the bottom to secure the 2 sides, before running the router over the top using a straight edge guide. It should be at least an 3" either side of the crack, more if possible. This will stabilize the top a great deal. Then you can route away the offending wood and really make an effort to match the grain with you filler piece or make a design detail out of the repair and use a constrasting wood, It would somewhat destroy the antique, value if any. I see that is not a big concern.

bill

one19 · 06-04-2009, 06:47 PM

thanks, guys! not sure which way I'm gonna go yet... maybe I'll get some photos up to better demonstrate my dilemma...

GeorgeC · 06-05-2009, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Beasley

Did you get this to use or for it's value as an antique?
If the crack is reasonably straight you might be able to run a router over the crack and inlay some matching wood. it might take sanding and refinish to blend the colors.

This is what I would do.

In fact sometime when I get the motivation I hava an oak desk on which the planks on the top shrank. There is now a small gap between each plank. I plan on routing a 1/2 inch grove and inserting a contrasting wood. There are about 7 of these gaps to fill.

G

one19 · 06-05-2009, 09:32 AM

I like your idea George, but I won't be able to get the router bit across the entire split. the panel is dadoed in... the surrounding joints would prevent this approach... I'll draw up a picture today...

Gary Beasley · 06-05-2009, 10:55 AM

With a clamped down guide and a plunge router you can do a shallow rout, just enough to do a inlay of practical dimensions and square the ends with a chisel up against the dadoed framing. You would also want to clamp down some stops to keep from running in to the framing around the panel.
Personally I'd do a mockup and practice the moves before trying it live on the cabinet. Give yourself a chance to dicover your mistakes before making them.
This would probably be a good use for a routing plane if one were available.

Webster · 06-05-2009, 01:49 PM

Seeing as the panel is only a quarter inch thick, and more likely than not, floating in the grooves.

I would get a couple of wood blocks (cut like a triangle) and apply them with some hot melt glue on the inside (if possible) on either side of the split and try pulling them together with a clamp.
If it`s stuborn, run a knife around the edges to free the panel up.
If the hot melt glue doesn`t hold, try some wood glue.
If the piece has been refinished before, it WILL take a bit of time to free the panel, but will eventialy go.
After you have it where you`d like, pry it apart and add some wood glue to the split only, and reclamp.
After ìt has dried, gently but firmly knock off the blocks.

This should work if the panel is only split and not missing any pieces.

Rick

one19 · 06-17-2009, 02:18 PM

well, I finally decided to just take the thing apart... and wouldn't u know it, it was a breeze! No issues at all! I'm repairing the top and will put it all back together soon. I've also decided to refinish it. I've read that these cabinets are not uncommon and worth more if restored... I'll do some pics of my restoration when complete...