demax

Hope this is the right place to post my question.

Parameters:
I'm building a wishing well (decor hobby) which will consist of at least 100 pieces of 6 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" cut pieces, each piece will have the ends angled at 18 degrees, so when assembled, every 10 pieces will form a perfect circle. Each circle will lay on top of the next 10 piece circle offset 3 1/4" to give a woven wood affect. (Much like bricks when laid are offset by one half.)

My question:
How best and cheapest method to fasten all these pieces together ?
I was considering to pocket screw but that's too expensive & time consuming to do 500 pocket screws.

If I apply glue to each piece could I use a Brad Gun -- since no piece is perpendicular to on another ? Another method may be to simply use staples but from experience staples have no staying power in an exterior weather environment.

Any and all suggestion welcomed and appreciated.

Than you.
demax

Gene Howe

I think TiteBond lll and brads would do the trick.

GeorgeC

For any given 10 piece circle I would use glue and web clamp (the picture frame web clamp without the metal corners) to hold them all together while the glue dries.. Equal pressure all around by the strap at top and bottom should keep all together, just like making a wooden bucket. Just be careful that you do not have excess glue oozing out and glue the clamp to the wood.

I cannot visualize just what you are going to do with th 10 resulting wooden circles.

Gerge

demax

Thank you both for the help. I was afraid if I could shoot a Brad crooked at an angle having never used a Brad Gun.

To answer: Each Circle is a column or row of the "Well wall". The more rows, the deeper the well. Each piece of wood resembles a brick. This gives the "Well" a realistic look rather than the normal pictures of wells one sees that just make the wall look like half of a wine barrel.

Gene Howe

I misunderstood your question, I guess. GeorgeC has the best solution for segmented circles. My suggestion was to connect the "layers" with brads and glue. You could still brad each segment of the circle. Just position the gun so that the brad goes straight into the end grain of piece you are nailing to. If that makes sense. Unfortunately, the brad holes will show. Or, you could TRY to toe nail each segment....not a good option, though.
A web clamp, or several, is your best option for the circles, IMHO. You won't want to wait around for the first circle to dry before gluing up the next one.

Gene

pjl

Hello Demax

I Found the best way to assemble many pieces together like that it to lay all of the pieces on a flat table with the out side facing up. Then one joint at a time push them tightly together with the out side edges flat, stretch plastic packing tape across the whole length of the joint "one piece if posible". Once all of the pieces are taped stand it on edge and roll it into a circle. If it looks good lay it down with the inside up and spred glue into the V's. Roll it back up and tape the two ends together. I've used this on a eight sided bird house I built, not only does this give you allmost invisible joints, but the tape holds the glue from squeezing out on the finish side.
Paul

skymaster

have you tried t'bond3 and biscuits?

GeorgeC

I like this. Would still use the web clamp as the last step.

Please post a picture when you are through.

G

Gene Howe

+1 Great suggestion, Paul.

rrich

Wishing well, out doors???

I would NOT use TB-III for glue. In a few years of rain and the elements the wishing well will start to fall apart due to glue failure. TB-III is really good stuff but it isn't truely water, water proof.

Assuming that the long grain of the wood is to be running horizontally, the 18° joints are not going to be the strongest. Perhaps you could cut the "bricks" so that the long grain runs in a horizontal direction?

I would use a glue that is intended for water proof applications. (Maybe polyurethane type glue?) To assemble, I would lay all 10 segments out on a flat surface. Then use masking tape (the blue or green painters tape or clear packing tape) to make a hinge where the segments join.

With everything laid out flat and with the tape hinges apply the glue. If you're using polyurethane, use a small brush to wet one side of the joint with water and apply a thin coat of glue on the other side. Get some help and stand the "bricks" up and form your circle. Use your strap clamp to apply gentle pressure to fully close the circle.

When assembling your circles to achieve height, glue some strips between sections on the inside of the well. (Every other "brick" should be more than enough.) This will give the well vertical stability.

__________________
Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.

demax

Fabulous, I love your idea. It is unique indeed. I can just visualize the process. Painters Blue tape is very strong, is use it all the time. When I repair counters with contact cement often there is no place for a clamp, I use Painters Blue Tape. None of those repairs have ever come apart.

yes, rrich the grain runs horizontal. I intent to fasten each circle to the next circle (at different points) with 4" 16 Penny Framer's Nails thinly pre-drilled & counter sunk (horses can't pull it apart). 80% of the top and bottom surface is not visible, only the sides are.

The glue I bought is Elmer's Waterproof (which advertises a 100% Water-Proof Bond).

Since I'm too conservative to buy a "Web Clamp" when a tool is only used once. I intent to use a Belt with a slip ring (2 half circles with a center post) which will allow tightening to the millimeter & to avoid slippage use a clamp at the end of the belt.

Thank you everyone, at my age I'm still learning. LOL