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Help with chopping block problem Help with chopping block problem
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:34 AM   #1
bbaley
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Default Help with chopping block problem

Hi all,
Some 10 years ago, I started a project, probably ahead of my learning curve then - a solid maple chopping block.

I had some money then and bought some really nice wood. Clear, Knotless 1"x13" Oregon curly maple sides/skirts, 2" thick x 6" for the top, cut into 4" tall stacks (end grain) glued up about 24"x30" total top.

And matching legs - 3 pieces each of the 2" stock.
I went to as much trouble as I could and slowly cut and jointed each piece for proper alternating grain for stress-relief etc (see pics).

At that time, a split developed - I am pretty sure because of gluing issues - and also the big stock I chose (2" x 6").

At any rate, I held on to it, wanting to save it.
I clamped it up and epoxied the split yesterday... only to have another one POP -after releasing the clamps. DANG.

so my question is - should I give up ?

My only remaining idea is to drill through and put threaded rod through it in 3 of four places (hidden behind the skirts of course when done).

Not sure how I would drill these, but it's the only thing I can come up with.

Any ideas appreciated.
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Old 11-16-2009, 05:57 PM   #2
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You are preventing the natural movement of the wood by gluing with the grain running in different directions, remove the skirts and cut off the split section you can then add higher outer sections on all four sides
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:39 PM   #3
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wow !
every reference I found back then and at least three other woodworkers told me to do it that way...
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Old 11-17-2009, 01:24 PM   #4
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Default wood movement

Wood moves, contracts and expands across it's width considerably more than in its length (with the long grain) so when you have all the end grain expanding and contracting together and then glue a long grain skirt to it, something has to give. Are you trying to add height to the block with the skirt? Maybe separate legs attached underneath or a frame the block can sit on or into without being "attached"? This would allow you to flip the block over and have a good side for show and a working side for cutting. I think we've nailed the problem, but the solution is kinda up to you. bill
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:11 PM   #5
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>> Wood moves, contracts and expands
Sure ! I was not defending - only that that's how it was explained to me it should be done, to mitigate the movement/spitting.

As for the skirt - the legs will (would anyway) mount inside are are essentially only that high as a means for mounting them .

Sounds to me, like I should just plan to start all over with a new one, and NOT alternate the grain (not expected) and use smaller pieces (very much expected).
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:41 PM   #6
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Default I think a chopping block gets more moisture

From washing and such unless it were really sealed on the end grain. Then what's the point other than looks? I appreciate your delimma, but it seems all the advice was either wrong or there is some thing they did that you didn't! It's a darn shame to not use it. I'd just take of the skirts and let it be for a period and see if it cracks again. Then you'd know it WAS the skirts! bill
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Last edited by woodnthings; 11-17-2009 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:13 PM   #7
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BB,
I would do like Woodenthings said and remove the skirts and let it sit for awhile and see what happens. Although looking at that crack, I wouldn't think the skirts would cause that type of crack. I would think the skirts would crack or separate at the miters. Looking at the direction changes of the grain, it might be the opposing grain direction causing movements that are fighting against each other, causing that crack perpendicular to the grain.
If it is still acting up after letting it sit, I would bandsaw the thing apart and start over with the glue up. Maybe do a little more research and see what the best way to re glue them would be. Let us know what happens.
Mike Hawkins
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Old 11-18-2009, 05:56 AM   #8
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I think the skirt added full to the fire here. By looking at the pictures it looks like the glue joints have week points in them also. I see this by the real clean splits in the wood joints, that the skirt pulled apart. Where the wood did split (3rd pic) it was weaker then the glue joint.
I would remove the skirt and add it under the cutting board in some way. This may not fix anything, if the glue joints are weak the wood will push/pull its self apart over time. I think Gorilla Glue (or something like it) would work best for this. It will allow for some movement in the joints because it dose not dry rock hard.
About gluing up wood with the grain running in different directions, it will work when gluing boards up, but not sure if it will work in a big block like this.
Just my .02, and I may be wrong.

Don
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