nolo

I'm trying to build a box similar to this one:




I would like to construct it without using nails or mechanical fasteners. I was planning on attaching the bottom with a dado joint. I was thinking about using a spline and kerf system for the mitered corners. The box needs to be pretty strong, so I was hoping for some help. Is this the best system to use for someone only using glue and cuts?

Type of wood:
1X6 select pine (actual size 3/4" X 5 1/2")

I also have a few questions about the cuts. How deep should the dado cut be in a 3/4" piece of wood? The bottom will be 3/8" thick (dado cut 3/8"). Should I cut into the sides 1/4"?

What type of wood should I use for the spline? What thickness should the spline be?

Garmar

Get a lock miter bit if you have a router table. This is what the joint looks like.

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2009/Main/475

Instructions on how to use them should come with the bit.

My personal preference is to go at least half the board thickness. In the case of 3/4 inch I would go 1/2 inch by the thickness of your bottom material. One of the nice features of using a lock miter is that you don't get a hole at one of the bottom edges when you cut your dado in.

Good luck with your project.

gar

__________________
No problem...that will buff right out.

nolo

Unfortunately, I do not have a router table. I just have basic power tools (chop saw and table saw).

Pinch Dog

Nolo, your spline and kerf system will work just fine, as well as you dado for the bottom, sounds like you have a good plan. However, try this when you do your glue-up. If you are using an exotic wood like rosewood, ebony or any wood with a hi oil content use a urethane glue. for all other hardwoods use your friendly neighborhood wood glue. before adding your glue wipe down the surface of each joint with methanol Alcohol (found at your local CVS). if you can't find methanol rubbing alcohol will work. what this does is it opens the pores of the wood so the glue can penetrate deeper into the end-grain. let the the methanol evaporate before adding the glue. you will do two applications of glue on each surface. the first, use a razor blade to press the glue firmly into the workpiece. do this on all surfaces. imagine the glue as spackle and the razor as a putty knife and you are trying to fill the all the little holes. Now, the second application is a thin even film on the joint as well as the spline. clamp and let dry. be sure your box is square while clamping. once this is dry it will never come apart.

piNchDoG

Hhaines

I'ver done a lot of boxes like this with a miter/ cross spline......they are very strong and realtivley easy to do....sometimes just the well fitted miter is stronger that you might think.....specially with the bottom glued in.....

WWLT

Have you considererd a locking rabbit joint? The link below is from another forum where it is discussed and there is even a picture of a box that was made with such a joint.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=29588

nolo

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to use 11/32" plywood for the bottom. I read on another site that I could have issues gluing the bottom (expansion and contraction). I would prefer to glue the dado joint to make the box stronger. Also, how strong would the box be without the spline? The box will be filled with rocks for a decorative piece. It would also be moved quite frequently.

henrykemp1

Cut the 4 wooden slide in same length. And prepare its edge exactly same as in image locate bellow.


I know it is quite difference from your need but it may give some idea(I hope so). Fix all the four slide and than fix the base of the box.

nolo

Where can I buy a lock miter bit locally? I tried Sears, HD, and Lowes. I need one that can cut 3/4" stock.

nolo

Are MLCS router bits good quality, or should I go with Grizzly? The Grizzly bit will cost around $60 with shipping, while the MLCS bit costs about $40.