Freud cope & stick bits. - Woodworking Talk

Corndog · 10-20-2007, 03:10 PM

Ooops. I think I goofed. I've had this set [99-263] for a while now and I've always hated the fact that the back of the mortise was too thin.
Did I get a set that was intended for 7/8" stock???
I took 'em apart...destroyed the bearing on the cope bit in the process...and I'm starting to think I need to chuck 'em and buy a new set.

Comments???

edp · 10-20-2007, 05:50 PM

of cope and stick tooling on ¾" thick stock with nearly identical results each time. To get an acceptable (to my eye) reveal on the front surface, I had to accept a dangerously thin edge on the back surface. Eventually the fix came to me. I now plane all my rough stock to .8" thick. This allows an acceptable wall thickness on the rear edge of the panel groove. Another thing it does is allow a little more wood between the hinge cup mortise and the ogee I machine on the perimeter to lighten the look of the door. Perhaps this would also work for you.

Ed

Corndog · 10-23-2007, 05:29 AM

I think I'll scrap the bits and try again.

Kingfisher · 10-23-2007, 09:10 AM

You cant find a replacement bearing? Keep the bit for other uses and making up layered profiles or at very least mail them to me

I've used them too and think the same but they work. If I'm working with rough stock I leave it a little heavy too, but Ive made doors with 3/4 stock and they held up just use good glue.

Corndog · 12-09-2007, 08:52 AM

I'm a goof. A regular off the shelf skateboard wheel bearing is the replacement for these bits.

Gerry KIERNAN · 12-09-2007, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corndog

I'm a goof. A regular off the shelf skateboard wheel bearing is the replacement for these bits.

Outfits like Busy Bee carry replacement bearings and sets of bearings for router bits. You might find something there.

Gerry

Corndog · 12-09-2007, 01:17 PM

Thanks Gerry but I have a ton of those bearings that I forgot about.