Farmhouse table please help - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #21 of 33 Old 01-04-2017, 11:25 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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already attached?

Too late now if already attached. Their purpose is to keep the planks flat ... if possible.Only the center tenon receives glue, at 3:30 into the video. The others have slots to allow for expansion and are NOT glued:


for a nice complete build:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-04-2017 at 11:38 AM.
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post #22 of 33 Old 01-04-2017, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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How do you built the tounges?
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post #23 of 33 Old 01-06-2017, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John De Capua View Post
How do you built the tounges?
The tongues can be cut a bunch of different ways. The first three that come to mind, in no particular order:

1) Use a table saw with a dado stack to cut one full-width tongue, then use a handsaw (or jigsaw) to make them look like the ones in the video. If necessary, clean up with a file.

2) Use a router to cut the full width tongue, then use a handsaw, jigsaw, or router to make them look like the ones in the video.

3) Use a rabbet plane (Stanley #78 or equivalent) to cut the full width tongue, etc.

Short version, you want a tenon that's long in a few places and short everywhere else. Use some tool to cut it to the long length everywhere, then remove material between them. The mortise can be cut with a plow plane, a router, or a table saw. I tend towards hand tools where possible, so I'd go with a rabbet plane, handsaw, plow plane, and chisel for my toolset. That's not fastest way by any stretch (I'm pretty sure the router wins for speed), but I prefer the quiet.
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post #24 of 33 Old 01-06-2017, 09:33 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Another option is ....

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How do you built the tounges?
You can make "loose tenons" aka tongues. The holes are mortises and the tenons fit into them. You can make mortises in both edges ... on the bread board and on the table end using a router with a straight bit and a centering jig. Now you just make loose tenons, but not too loose, to fit into both edges. This only requires the one tool, the router and jig.


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post #25 of 33 Old 01-06-2017, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Are the tenons cuts from the vertical boards of the table top?
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post #26 of 33 Old 01-07-2017, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Arr the vertical boards and bread board routed out and the tenons installed or is the tenons cut out of the vertical boards?
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post #27 of 33 Old 01-07-2017, 11:05 AM
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What "vertical" boards?

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Are the tenons cuts from the vertical boards of the table top?
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Arr the vertical boards and bread board routed out and the tenons installed or is the tenons cut out of the vertical boards?
The top is made from planks, laying horizontally. The tenons are cut or routed into the ends of the planks as shown in both videos. There are no vertical boards in a bread board end. Review the videos for a better idea of what's needed.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #28 of 33 Old 01-07-2017, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Ok so after doing my research I think a loose tenon is more to my skill setbusing the beadlock system. My question is, should I only use these for the bread boards or can i also use them for the vetical boards.
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post #29 of 33 Old 01-07-2017, 12:16 PM
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use them anywhere ...

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Ok so after doing my research I think a loose tenon is more to my skill set using the beadlock system. My question is, should I only use these for the bread boards or can i also use them for the vertical boards.
Joining boards that are parallel or at 90 degrees, it doesn't matter, where ever a mortise and tenon could be used. Breadboard end to the top, or skirts or aprons to the legs is fine.

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post #30 of 33 Old 01-07-2017, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
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Ok so after doing my research I think a loose tenon is more to my skill setbusing the beadlock system. My question is, should I only use these for the bread boards or can i also use them for the vetical boards.
Vertical boards??? are you calling the skirt vertical??? NO to the tenons there....you WANT the skirt to float also...most of use use elongated holes and just barely snug the screws or a cleat type fastener so the wood can move in changes.

Easiest thing to remember with wood for movement, gluing and fastening....
IF the grains run the same direction/parallel to each other they CAN be soundly fastened....with a very few exceptions as the skirt and a few others.
IF the grains of the pieces run opposite/crossways they ALWAYS FLOAT except usually the center anchorpoint and that's so everything stays centered and floats evenly out and in both ways.....breadboards ar hardly ever flush UNLESS they were built AND kept at a consistant MC so there would be no movement technically AND I've NEVER seen a enviroment that didn't have a small swing of some sort.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love, Tim
.......... http://www.tsmfarms.com .......... John 3:16-21 ..........
Reveling God's awesome beauty while creating one of-a-kind flitches and heirlooms.
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post #31 of 33 Old 01-08-2017, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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The vertical boards I am referring to is on the table top. It's made of the long boards and the bread board ends, the long boards us what I am referring to. Is this the skirt? I am asking if the long boards need to just be glued or glued and screwed or have loose tenons and glue, which method?
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post #32 of 33 Old 01-08-2017, 11:47 AM
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some have apron/skirts others don't

This table has aprons to attach and support the top:



This table does not:




Your table top boards are horizontal. The aprons run vertically. You do not attach the aprons to the top with any mortises or tenons. The top must be floating to allow for the wood to expand and contract. It should be attached with Z clips or slotted holes out from the center to allow for it to move.

These are the aprons attached to the legs:


These are the Z clips used to attach the top:


They can be wood or metal:


They need a groove to ride in so they can move as shown above. The groove can be continuous or just where it's necessary as shown above.

Here's how it get assembled:
https://youtu.be/XKYWRx5lIus?t=276

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-08-2017 at 12:07 PM.
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post #33 of 33 Old 01-09-2017, 06:17 PM
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John, when we built ours (90" long and 38" wide) we had supports roughly every 5 1/2 inches under the top. So every board we put in we glued to a support and slapped 2 brad nails in each support. When we got to the bread board we did same thing, glued and brad nails. After we used formsby tung oil (which lacks tung oil) we bar topped it to fill any small gaps between boards. The brad nails excuse the pun, NAILED it on helping it look rustic! FYI it was the first farm table I have made and the 2nd thing I really have ever made. First being my 1 year old granddaughter mini picnic table ( All Walnut on it).
You can see the brad nail in pic...I hope
Mike
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