timbo2410

Hi, I have been doing a bit of carving and have been using a Dremel without a hitch. Now I also have a Metabo die grinder that is primarily used for metal work, but does anybody know if there are wood dies to fit a 6mm die shaft? I have been to local hardware stores and I end up with blank expressions. Surely there are dies suitable after all they are just a scaled up Dremel bit

woodnthings

You've used the terms "dies" and "bit" which are not interchangeable. I die is a 2 part male female machined part when pressed onto a piece of metal or other sheet material, deforms the metal or other material to the shape of the internal die. There are also injection molding dies.
A router uses "bits" or cutters on a shaft like the Dremel. The shaft diameter is typically 1/8" or 1/4' or 1/2" and are held in place by a compression collet. What you need to do is find an 1/8" collet for your Metabo die grinder, or modify your Dremel collet to fit the Metabo. I don't have the decimal equivalent of 6mm handy but that's where you need to start. It's possible that Metabo makes a collet for 1/8" or .125" shafts.
The metric conversion to inches is shown here: http://www.metric-conversions.org/co...sion-chart.pdf
and for 6mmm is .23" or almost 1/4" at .25", 1/8" or .125", falls between 3 and 4 millimeters. This may not be an easy conversion to accomplish without machining or a factory solution.
You could open up the 6mm collet to .25" and use 1/4" shaft cutters and burrs, however. But I don't see any easy way to use the Dremel bits. JMO bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
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timbo2410

I would like to use the heavier Metabo die grinder for removing larger quantities of wood before getting into the finer tools. Hence asking if there are "dies" specifically for woodwork that have a 6mm shaft as this will fit the Metabo.
From your own analogy you say "A router uses "bits" or cutters on a shaft like the Dremel"
Isn't that what the "Die" grinder is, just a larger version of the dremel? It too uses a compression collet but it is MUCH larger.
So at the end of all that, do I say "bit" or "die"?

Plastyk

A die grinder is just that... it grinds dies. That is mostly what it is used for. Hence the name.

It is actually a rotary cutting tool, just like a router.

timbo2410

yeah I know mate I got one right here now. I just want to use it to rough out some carvings. I have found some "bits" or "burrs" but they are multi use (metal and wood). I was rather hoping to find some dedicated wood cutting ones.

woodnthings

Is this your Metabo?
http://www.coastaltool.com/a/meta/ge700.htm
These bits are called rotary wood rasps and are what you are talking about: http://www.forneyind.com/woodrasps.cfm
Here's another brand: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/a...p-14shank.aspx

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

timbo2410

Yep that's pretty much it just a different model, but other wise the same. I was looking at some bits like:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=32485

They seem to CUT more than grind if that make sense. But I am a bit wary as the link I gave describes them as being used for metal AND wood. Comments are most welcome

Texas Sawduster

Okay, here goes.
The items listed in the above link describe them as CARBIDE.
I have been in the machine shop industry since 1983. These items are made from CARBIDE so they will be able to DEBURR (remove sharp edges/burrs) from metal parts.
As these items CUT and do not GRIND (as they are not an abrasive) they will work on wood carving. I have used them to do so. The only drawback to using a combonation as listed in the link is that they cutting teeth are usually spaced closer together to accomodate metal working.
If you want to use them, you must let the tool do the work and not overload them or they will load up with wood, very quickly. This also applies to using them with metal objects.
You may also want to play with the RPM's of the rotary tool of your choice to get the best cutting action so you don't load up the teeth as fast and also to prevent burning what you are cutting.

Hope this helps.

timbo2410

Here is a better idea:

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/JA/produc...and_Rasps.html

timbo2410

Thanks for the heads up on that. That was why I was a bit wary as I can see from the pics that the grooves are set very close together. That was why I was looking for a dedicated wood working bit but with more of a cutting action than grinding. Is there such a thing??

woodnthings

http://www.forneyind.com/woodrasps.cfm bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

timbo2410

oh yeah I saw them, I've actualy nipped down and got a set for the time being. I was really keen to get this die grinder up and running as it's just sitting there gathering dust. If I could put it to good use I'd be happy. Thanks for the help

E Loewen

I was told that burrs for cutting aluminum are a better choice for wood,
the teeth? are not as fine as the ones made for harder materials

Is there a different sized collet available from the tool maker that would allow you to use 1/4" bits ?


Erich

timbo2410

Yes you can get different collets to fit. The problem I have is that I cannot find a burr that will do the job. I must say though that the burr I use with my dremel that is a carbide one for aluminium, works very well with Oak. It will also leave a very fine surface compared to some of the dedicated wood bits. I have a selection of rasp bits that fit my die grinder but they are useless (at least with Oak) as they just skid across the surface and do nothing.
At the moment I use the arbortech for removing large areas of waste wood. but it would be nice to have a more agressive form of the dremel to get into some tight areas.

Gerry KIERNAN

Hi timbo

Unless my math is off quite a bit 6mm is just slightly smaller than 1/4 inch. 1/4 inch shank cutters should work. If they are too large you coud turn them down slightly using a drill press and a smooth file or sandpaper. Or, if you cannot get a 1/4 inch collet for your Metabo you could try grinding out the existing collet slightly to accomodate 1/4 shank bits. I also have been doing some power carving lately, and I find that rotary files are quite effective. I believe the ones I have are made by Nicholson.

Gerry

timbo2410

Thanks for the info. I know I can get some different sized Collets for the metabo so that is one option. If I can source some good bits/burrs that will work well with wood then I can get the correct sized collet to match. I bought a set of three Bosch rasps (cylindrical, cone and ball) but they just skid across the surface of the wood. I did try them in my variable high speed drill and the result was the same. No matter what speed they just did not do anything.Or maybe I need to pay a bit more for bits and get good quality. Whatever the problem is, I know they didn't work for me.
These are them:
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.js...h=rasp&x=0&y=0

Old Skhool

Your bits are about .014 (14 thousandths undersized) They may very well work, but if they don't, you could use your dremel to slightly widen the compression slots on the collet allowing the collet to pinch down a little tighter. Good luck.

remorg6gun

just for info 6mil is .243 in which is only .007in less than 1/4 in i would expect the 1/4 in bits --cutters to fit with no problen.

timbo2410

Ok so has anybody got some hints on rasps/burrs that I can use to "rough out" with that are available in the UK? As I said above, the ones I got just don't do a thing or is that due to the fact that Oak is so hard? The dremel bits didn't have problem at all and went through wood like a hot knife through butter.

mickit

6/25.4= .236
.250-.236=.014
A too small collet will clamp at the tail of the shaft, but not at the collet face introducing a wobble effect. A small wobble at 10,000-15,000 RPM could cause an "oh S**T" moment!
The collet can be honed, but the cost of an appropriately sized collet is minimal, compared to an emergency room visit.
Just my two cents(USD)