Dado blade or router bit ? - Woodworking Talk

dart68 · 11-12-2008, 11:05 PM

Which will tear out the least when making rabbits and dados in plywood?

clarionflyer · 11-12-2008, 11:37 PM

Can't state this enough.... Depends on the quality of each cutter!!!

But my experience has been the dado.

I have a "good to excellent" dado (Delta). And I have a "good" router bit ($50).
With these parameters I have a nearly perfect groove with the dado. But I have some chip-out with the router bit.

Also, unless you have a couple feather boards on the router table, it's very tough to keep things square and straight. One little hiccup and it's a bad line. Much easier with the saw.

Just my experience... hope it helps.

knotscott · 11-12-2008, 11:59 PM

ClarionFlyer is exactly right. It depends. I tend to prefer using the TS, and get outstanding results with an Infinity Dadonator stacked dado set.

djonesax · 11-13-2008, 12:02 AM

I have never used a dado set for a table saw but I have never experieces tear out with a router. I dont do it on a router table though. I will clamp a straigt edge to the peice the move the router across the peice.

mmtools · 11-13-2008, 12:53 AM

I have used both the dado set (amana), and the router bit method. I get better results using the dado set. Sharp tools are the key!!!
Mike

dbhost · 11-13-2008, 02:30 AM

I get better reults from the rabbeting bit. But that is also due to quality issues. My Dado set is a Skil 6" set that is a bit tricky to set up where it will even try to leave a flat bottom. Wishing I had bought a Freud SD206 instead....

Of course if you are rabbeting non straight edges, say like cutting a rabbet onto a disc then your choice has got to be the router bit. Kind of hard to follow a curve with a table saw...

cabinetman · 11-13-2008, 05:51 AM

I do most all dadoes with a router. Long dadoes on large pieces are sometimes difficult to hold down on a TS. Changing out the sawblade to a dado blade is just another step I don't care to do.

IMO, done with a router produces a better cut. I came up with this jig that is very fast and accurate.

Tony B · 11-13-2008, 07:48 AM

I do almost all of my dados, large and small with my table saw. I get a cleaner cut with the dado. With large pieces, my table saw surface and my outfeed table are much larger and heavier and more stable than my router table.
I dont do too much in the way of small pieces because I build mostly furniture.
It would probably be more help to the OP if we stated what type of work we do, since the OP did not state what type of work he does.

red · 11-13-2008, 08:30 AM

I have used both methods and they both have their appropriate time to be used. I guess it comes down to what type of dado is being done and your comfort level doing it. I have used the table saw for most though. Red

joesdad · 11-13-2008, 09:00 AM

Tear out on your exit pass can be prevented with a backer block when using the TS or router. Tear out on the face of the material can be a couple things; Wrong type blade, dull or chipped router bit or sometimes something a simple as moving too fast.

djonesax · 11-13-2008, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabinetman

I do most all dadoes with a router. Long dadoes on large pieces are sometimes difficult to hold down on a TS. Changing out the sawblade to a dado blade is just another step I don't care to do.

IMO, done with a router produces a better cut. I came up with this jig that is very fast and accurate.

I agree about changing the saw blade. I'd rather change a router bit.

I built a similar jig, it makes lining up the dado a lot easier.

dart68 · 11-18-2008, 12:11 AM

Thanks for the info! I'm planning on making a couple of book cases and a computer desk and I plan on using baltic birch plywood for the carcass. I'm worried about tearout of the face veneers.