Cutting 2x4's with table saw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-29-2009, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Cutting 2x4's with table saw

I'm trying to cut some 2x4's in half to make some 1x4 drawer fronts about 24" wide for my work bench. Ive adjusted the blade low enough to make 1 pass on on the top and 1 on the bottom which was recommended to me. I have made sure that the blade is square but I still cant get an even cut on both sides or top/bottom. One side is thicker or wider than the other. Am I doing something wrong or is it the blade/saw itself?
thanks, Chris
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-29-2009, 05:45 PM
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So.. You are resawing a 2x4 on the table saw. This leads to a couple of questions...

#1. Is the blade square to the table?
#2. Is the rip fence square to the table?
#3. Is the 2x4 stock you are using square to itself?

Chances are the answers are, yes, yes, and no. RARELY is construction grade lumber square...

That being the case, You should face, then edge joint your 2x4, rip the opposing edge, THEN resaw it...

Of course that means you will be taking material off, but you WILL get square cuts if everything else is square and right.

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post #3 of 11 Old 12-29-2009, 05:51 PM
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I vote Yes, No, No

Actually, I seriously doubt that if you could make a 1 x 4 X 24 face for a drawer front from a 2X4, that it would stay flat. Just buy a 1 x 4 and cut to the 24" length

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Last edited by Tony B; 12-29-2009 at 05:57 PM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-29-2009, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B View Post
I vote Yes, No, No

Actually, I seriously doubt that if you could make a 1 x 4 X 24 face for a drawer front from a 2X4, that it would stay flat. Just buy a 1 x 4 and cut to the 24" length
Well you sure aren't going to get true 1x4 out of 2x4 nominal unless you use a board stretcher...

Out of square fences aren't all that common, but they do happen... So you may be right. If so square that fence up and try again...

OP, Remember that your 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5" not really 2"x4".

And yeah, you CAN resaw 2x stock, you won't get 2 1x pieces though. You will get 1 1x piece and scrap. Even if it were a full 2" thick, the kerf of the blade would remove enough material that the offset side would be 1/32" or so thin...

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Last edited by dbhost; 12-29-2009 at 06:02 PM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-29-2009, 06:36 PM
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If you joint the narrow edges to be parallel to eachother (this can be done on a jointer, or on the TS), check to see which side has a cup if any. If it does, use that side against the fence. If one side is flat, or you make it flat, use that side against the fence for both cuts.

If you're using an 1/8" kerf blade you should wind up with two 11/16" pieces. I would use a 24T or 32T ripping blade and use a slow feed.






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post #6 of 11 Old 12-29-2009, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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thanks all.
I guess I could go and buy 1x4's but whats the fun in that? I already have a bunch of 2x4's hanging around so I thought I might just use them, there free. How do I use the table saw as a jointer?

Chris
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-29-2009, 08:07 PM
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Table Saw Jointer

Quote:
Originally Posted by jester125 View Post
thanks all.
I guess I could go and buy 1x4's but whats the fun in that? I already have a bunch of 2x4's hanging around so I thought I might just use them, there free. How do I use the table saw as a jointer?

Chris
Virtually impossible to do. You will have saw kerf marks and it will not allow for a seamless joint, not to mention the piece will more than likely not be square enough to keep the boards flat enough when you glue them up.

If you have a router use that to joint the glue edges.
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-29-2009, 09:02 PM
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What? Nobody suggested using a zero kerf bandsaw blade?

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 12:53 AM
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One problem is you are working on the narrow edge
of the board, hard to keep it level.

How about putting several together, clamping them
and drive a peg through the whole stack and
then cut off slices.

You could leave the pegs for character.

Or glue up several and cut the slices off. They would
all be the same thickness with a seam running the
long way. Set your fence to 3/4 and flip the stack
end for end to make the cuts.


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post #10 of 11 Old 12-30-2009, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester125 View Post
How do I use the table saw as a jointer?
Chris

You're not using the TS as a jointer...exactly. What happens is that when the two edges of the 2x4 are flat and parallel to each other, and you have the flattest face that is referenced as close to 90 degrees to the edges against the fence, cutting the 2x4 in half is as close as you can get with getting a straight cut after flipping the 2x4 for the second cut.






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post #11 of 11 Old 12-31-2009, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again everybody. OK now I get it.

Chris
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