A couple of tung oil questions.... - Woodworking Talk

toddj99 · 08-01-2008, 09:59 PM

1. Building a quilt stand, oak with a grain filler, planned on using tung oil. Could it possibly do something funky down the road (2 months, 2 years, 2 decades) that could possibly damage a quilt?

2. The tung oil I have from Rockler states that I can add a Japan drier to it to make it dry faster but neglects to state how much per quantity. Does anyone else here know how much?

Thank you for any insight, tips, or help on this. Also, any tips with tung oil not related to these questions are also very welcome. First time using just tung oil to coat a project.

JMendez035 · 08-01-2008, 10:58 PM

i have used tung oil and havent had any problem with it... i have never used a dryer to make it dry faster i usually wait 6 hours betweem each coat with a very ligth sanding in between each...

jerry · 08-02-2008, 10:09 AM

I think you two are talking about different finishes. Pure tung oil takes a long time to dry and if it is re-coated before it is completely dry white spots usually form and the tung oil has to be removed and started again. Tung oil finishes made from oil(BLO), varnish(polyurethane)and MS or in the case of Formby's tung oil finish a thin wiping varnish made with alkd resin and soya oil. Pure oil of any kind makes a poor finish.

Regards

Jerry

Tony B · 08-02-2008, 10:24 AM

I haven't used tung oil in over 20 years. When I did, Waterlox was great and Formby's was pure crap.
Time and technology is always changing products so I cant speak for the here and now.
There was a really good video on applying tung oil by Frank Klaus. He really simplified the application. Dont know if they are available any more either.

FWIW

Tony B

toddj99 · 08-02-2008, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerry

I think you two are talking about different finishes. Pure tung oil takes a long time to dry and if it is re-coated before it is completely dry white spots usually form and the tung oil has to be removed and started again. Tung oil finishes made from oil(BLO), varnish(polyurethane)and MS or in the case of Formby's tung oil finish a thin wiping varnish made with alkd resin and soya oil. Pure oil of any kind makes a poor finish.

Regards

Jerry

I've done the mix stuff with the exact items that you're talking about and have used Formby's also with good results . What I'm trying to use now is 100% tung oil that I bought from Rockler. I saw a hope chest done with Brazilian cherry and coated in tung oil that looking beautiful and was hoping to replicate the same finish. Right now I'm just testing it on test pieces going through the entire finishing process before I do anything with the actual project.

Gerry KIERNAN · 08-02-2008, 11:14 AM

Not trying to hijack your thread Todd but I am considering tung oil as a finish for a work bench, constructed of alder, so I am curious as to anyone's thoughts on that application as well, Re: durability, longevity, and ability to refinish after it gets worn. I have never used tung oil, but I don't want to use varnish on a surface that will be getting some hard knocks.
I know Daren is a great advocate of tung oil, so I'm curious to see what his input will be.

Gerry

jerry · 08-03-2008, 10:59 AM

Waterlox is a brand name for a family of finish products,primarily varnish made with phenolic resin and tung oil-It is not tung oil-. Frank Klaus is a great woodworker but the oil finish he describes in great detail is Waterlox original varnish (NOT OIL). I have never understood the mystique about tung oil, it is just an oil. It takes many coats to offer minimal protection. The old saying about tung oil was once a day for a week once a week for a month and once a month forever. Way too much work for minimal gain.

Good Luck
Jerry

jerry · 08-03-2008, 11:04 AM

I have finished many work benches,the usual finish recommended is BLO. My favorite two are none or an oil varnish blend.

Jerry