TS3660

I will need to cut about 10 holes through some 1 x 6 pine, 3/4" thick. The hole will be a slot shape 1 1/2" x 4" with full radiused ends. I'm thinking the best way is to hog out what I can with a
1 1/4" drill and then route it to size using a template and a 1/2" straight bit. Then remove the template and route a 1/4 round around the shape, both sides. These will be the sides of a box and the slots will be handles. Is this the best method to use? Or could I route it without drilling it?

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Bud

"Veggie burgers aren't bad if you put enough meat on them"

woodnthings

I'd use a 1 1/4" Forstner for the radius ends and saber saw/jig saw out in between the two holes. Then radius the edges with a roundover bit. This way you are removing most of the waste by drilling or sawing..... bill

__________________
A jointer is as important for preparing the work for the table saw as the table saw is for sawing it. Straight and flat is where it's at!
Wood "rocks", except on the table saw, not good...

TS3660

Ok, but I want the slots to be nice and straight. That's why I thought a template and a straight bit. But I do have an awsome jig saw so maybe I should take your approach and forget the template. Just drill, cut, roundover.

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Bud

"Veggie burgers aren't bad if you put enough meat on them"

SLAC_Engineer

I think your op is a great method. Definitely rough it out first with a forstner bit.

Cement head

I vote for the jigsaw method. You can cut accurately and then router the edges. Tom

robs660

Why not make a template and then use a straight cutting router bit I would make a few passes but you would have a clean hole

johnnie52

Forstner bit, jig saw, round over bit with bearing.... Saves time and makes a nice neat cut slot.

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Children no longer mind their parents, every man wants to write a book,
and it is evident that the end of the world is fast approaching.
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If Woodworking is so much fun why isn't it called WoodFUNNING?

BWSmith

Bud,10 pcs.....for me at least,is the "stickler".Its right at the point of balance on making specialized fixture/jig.

If theres any chance of it being a re-occuring job,then I'd build a captive jig.The problem with "tooling",which fixtures certainly are......is their tolerances have to be exactly half of what the parts go-nogo is.IOWs if the parts got a tolerance of .010"....the fixture has to be built to .005.(am sure you know that,just throwin it to those that might not realize).

So again,because of that number(10 pcs)do I want to build a fixture?

Also consider....the number of steps in any process.Steps might be goin over and grabbing a different tool?Vs what may seem a slower op(operation),but staying within one work station.

A DP(drillpress)and a forstner drill is gonna be hard to beat on shear speed and stock removal efficiency.So,with that probably as my main criterea.......I'd fixture the part,drill a series of overlappin,slightly undersized holes w/forstner....then use two routers......each with different bit.I'd probably go with guided roundover,but.....would think about leaving the part in captive jig.Mainly for its holding pwr.IOWs....jig is already screwed to bench holding part.....why take it out to use roundover?Of course bit offset applies here.


This is one more reason to have a production table on DP.The ability to swing table out from under chuck would see us doing routering right on DP table.Saving any walking.Another aspect of this,although not frequently discussed is.....how does the part affect the "supply chain".IOWs....do you space opperations out,doing all drilling...then do all routing...then do all sanding.Or does the part get all those operations on each part before it gets tossed in hopper/cart?I really like finished parts.......in alot of cases it amts to less "handling" issues.Most production shops however,do the former.BW

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Those who say it cannot be done shouldn't interrupt the people doing it.

Cliff

If precision is an issue ( or if you don't have a 1.5" forstner drill):
Build a router jig and use a plunge router.
This would eliminate the issue of misalignment between the slot and holes bored at the ends.

If a little misalignment is not an issue then drill the holes at the ends

SteveEl

For production, if possible, make the slots in a single stick before cutting them to length. I'm just a beginner really, but seems like a good chance to hog the slots, then slap the long stick in a slot routing jig to clean up the sides of each slot with just a single set up. Cut finished handles to length.

jschaben

Fixture = 1/4" hunk of MDF. Add 1/16" to all the dimensions and cut the hole in the MDF. Use a 5/8" bushing and a 1/2" (preferably spiral) bit. Will take about 3 passes on each piece. Follow up with a bearing guided roundover, after removing template.

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John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood

Hammer1

I've done a lot of open hand tool boxes with a slotted handle. All the students that went through my class made one, often 30 students per class, 3 classes a year. I always made 2 or 3 myself as demos, did this for many years and sold the extras to support student organizations. Because it was a learning project and I wanted the students to utilize a number of tools, we drilled end holes and connected them with a jig saw, rounded over the edges as others have said. The issue is connecting the holes nice and even with the arc of the holes.

It often would take additional work to smooth up and correct any miscues with these straight cuts, which was good for educational purposes. If you want perfect slots with little or no extra work, I would use a template set up for a router with a template guide. There is no need to drill the ends and you should use a straight bit smaller than 1/2". You don't have to remove that much material for a through cut, I'd go with 1/4" and a plunge router making several incremental depth cuts. Sharp bit, smooth continuous feed around the template with no baubbles which could cause a burn. I would make the template as described above, connecting holes with a jig saw but cutting the actual slots using a template would give you precise, matching slots with no additional fussing.

jschaben

HI Hammer - I suggested a half inch bit because of the size of the job. Recommendation is usually a max depth of cut at 1/2 of the cutting diameter, 1/8" with a quarter inch bit. That's 6 passes per hole. I've gone deeper on short run stuff but I'd bet that 1/4" deep cuts on this job will kill at least one and probably about 3 quarter inch bits. JMHO

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John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood

woodnthings

I suggested removing the waste with a Forstner and a jig saw. You could leave a bit like a 1/16" to rout away using a template if you want a more perfect finished slot. It would just be a clean up on an existing opening..... easier on the bits. bill

__________________
A jointer is as important for preparing the work for the table saw as the table saw is for sawing it. Straight and flat is where it's at!
Wood "rocks", except on the table saw, not good...