Both the thin cut Freud Diablo and Marathon at HD and others rip great! Reason being the thinner the blade the less power it takes to plow thru and the less wood it has to remove, simple physics. There is no substitue for a new sharp blade and at $10 or less the 2 blades mentioned are worth it. As already stated a "wobbly blade" is either a bent saw arbor or the blade has lost it's temper from overheating and is not worth a bucket of rusty nails.
Which ever is the case...Ditch it! Bad things will happen if U don't.
Some everyday building contractors wedge the blade guard up to expose the blade. Do so at our own risk and unless you saw every day with this saw blade exposed, you won't remember and it will bite you! Rigid has a lifetime warranty, but is sold thru HD and their lifespan may be in question, since many HD stores are closing. I own PC 7 1/4, a Skil 8 1/4 and a BD sidewinder 7 1/4. All have their separate purposes. The Skil I got when I was 15 and has been rebuilt once. It has sentimental value. It weighs more than a bag of cement! And make a weird noise but keeps on cuttin. The base plate is critical for ripping with a straight edge guide. Keep your eye out for a discarded storm door as the side pieces of light weight aluminum make great straight edges.
The factory edge of 1/4" masonite makes a low profile straight edge, but often you end up bumping into your clamps if they stick up too high. Some guys make a ripping jig using two pieces of 1/4" or 1/2" sandwiched and make a thru cut on the base when the back cleat is secured on. That way the cut line is the edge of the base exposed after the saw cut and set ups are simple. That's my advice, Bill
One final bit of advice,
when ripping lumber, but not plywood necessarily, is to insert a wedge into the kerf as soon as possible to prevent the board from squeezing the back side of the blade as it spins...the greatest cause of kickback, if not the only cause. By using a good rip jig the tendency to twist the saw in the cut to "stay on line" is minimzed, if not eliminated entirely. Set the jig to the marks calmp it or screw it down and.... and Let R Rip!
That's my advice, part 2, Bill
More advice part 3
: I have found the best saw for ripping to be my wormdrive, you don't have to worry about the weight, which is considerable, because you are resting it on the work, and it's got more Torque because of the gearing, given the same HP and sizeblade. I had to rip some 3" maple and made cuts from opposite sides to meet in the middle. No problem, also a 2 pass cut is preferable to an all at once pass, since it requires less power. That's my advice, part 3,bill ...yea, I know just write a dam book!