snowbird

I'm working with black walnut and since I'm a newbie at woodworking I've got problems with the glue that oozes out upon clamping work together. I wipe it with a damp cloth, but invariably there is some glue left which won't take a stain and looks bad. Any hints?
Thanks.

Daren

I usually have to sand those spots again after assemble/before finish. After the joint has dried I take another damp cloth and give it a quick wipe, that should show you where you missed any glue.

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Garmar

You could use a glue for dark woods like this one. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...6&cookietest=1

Also, you can allow the glue to dry until it's almost dry but still somewhat soft and use a paint scraper to get the glue off. This won't do much for any glue line issues. Try really washing the glue off with a very wet rag. It will raise the grain and look like hell, but you're going to be sanding it anyway, I presume.

If the damage is done the only thing to do is sand the glue off of the flat areas. You may be able to tint the glue in the glue joints. I wouldn't suggest doing this to what is left on the flat areas - sand that off. You can also try using a sharp knife and lightly scoring the glue (if it's showing up in the joint) and using wood filler.

bzbatl

Another trick is using the sawdust generated from the wood you're working with, and rubbing that into the glue joints while it's still wet. Basically your own wood filler pre-matched.

For the most part, the paint scraper on the almost-dry ooze works the best with a sanding afterward. I recently did this with an oak top and a dark stain, and you can't see the joint lines at all.

snowbird

Thanks for your tips to date. I've tried using quite a damp rag to wipe the glue and that seems to leave a crack because the glue is wiped out of the joint a ways. I've also tried what was labelled as "stainable" wood filler, but it didn't take my stain. I'll take a look at the glue for dark woods. As you all probably know, it's not much fun trying to sand those glue lines in a joint. I'm sure prevention is much superior to cure. I often can't get at the glue in a project joint because of all the clamps I've applied, so scraping the glue out when it's tacky doesn't look like a good option. Black walnut with a golden oak stain really gets dark and those nasty glue lines are not a good thing.

johnv51

On visible areas where I want to prevent squeeze out I use blue painters tape at the edge of the joints to catch the glue. The rest of the time I keep a container of warm water and an absorbant rag (usually terry cloth) and a sponge handy. Make sure you spread your glue evenly along the joint surfaces. I buy bundles of the cheap metal brushes used for flux for this task. Throw em away when they get stiff.

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Spilling wine on oak does not make it purpleheart!

jerry

Use tape and then scrape or sand away any residue. Stainable wood filler is like saying paintable-it may take some stain but,not like wood. One thing I do just before applying stain or top coat is to wipe with mineral spirits. It will high light any glue and also show what the wood will look like with a clear finish.
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johnv51

Stainable wood filler is only stainable before it dries. After it dries any stain just sits on the surface.

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Spilling wine on oak does not make it purpleheart!

Garmar

This is excellent advice. Time consuming, but necessary in situations like this one.

Also, do you have access to a wide belt sander? Sometimes local cabinet shops will run your stuff through their sander for DIYers for a small fee or gratis if you strike up a good relationship with them.

A thorough sanding usually cures this issue and hand sanding or using small hand tools on wood like walnut is very labor intensive.

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No problem...that will buff right out.

snowbird

Thanks for all the tips. I'll try the alternatives.
I was able to convince my wife that a 22 inch drum sander would be a good tool to have. My glue problem isn't in edge gluing pieces to make a wider panel, though, but in joints necessary in constructing "boxes" such as cabinets (shelfs and corners, for example). Keep those hints coming....I'm open to even more suggestions.

Daren

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Garmar

Score on the sander!

I see what you're saying. Are you using plywood for the boxes? Typically I don't use glue for the carcass of my cabinets. I butt joint everything and use 2" screws where it hides and pocket screw where it can be seen. I glue and clamp on the face frames. The frame will hold the front together and the back, well...the back will hold the back together.

Say you were making a corner shelf out of solid wood. If the backs are against the wall and your cabinet you could counter sink the hole in the back and pre-drill before screwing. I've found that this holds forever and the glue issue is nonexistent.

Use a strong screw though because regular drywall screws are prone to snapping when fastening solid to solid. Should be just fine using drywall screws in plywood to plywood connections. You'll still get a snapper once in a while.

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No problem...that will buff right out.

GeorgeC

I have never had any problem with excess glue showing if I wipe well with a damp rag during the glue up process and then routine sanding afterwards. You may not be sufficiently wiping during the glue up process.

G

gharvey

When I glue up anything I put Butchers Bowling Alley wax around the joint or along the glue lines. Glue won't stick to wax and it is fairly easy to sand off after. Bowling Alley wax and hot linseed oil is also the formula for the finish used by Thomas Moser furniture and puts a nice sheen on your project. Butchers can be found at Home Depot and will last a lifetime. It is also good for putting screws in to wax up before screwing them into hardwood.

GHarvey

breakfastchef

I am liking the blue painters tape idea and plan to use it in the future.

There seems to be two schools of thought about glue squeeze-out. Wipe it off immediately or wait until it dries and scrape and sand. I have had better success with the latter. If you let the glue squeeze-out dry, you can get most of it off with a simple scraping. I find that wiping wet glue forces some of it down into the grain making it nearly impossible to ever remove.

Rick Mosher

Great tips! Here are a couple more: Don't put so much glue in the joint that it gushes out when clamping, you should just get a few beads along the joint if you have the right amount. Also be careful you are not clamping too tightly and squeezing out all the glue leaving a starved, therefore weak joint. There is also glue available that will glow under black light. Really easy to find problem spots. I use water based dye a lot in my finishing so when I raise the grain before my final sanding I put a little bit of the dye in the water. It is really easy to tell how well you have sanded plus the glue and scratches show up great.

Itchy Brother

When I have a small amout of glue squeeze out and it makes little beads of glue along the seam,then I just let it almost dry then sorta cut it or scrape it off.I tried wiping it off with a damp rag but I think I just end up wiping it into the grain in an even bigger area.I still have to resand the area a bit.Itchy

chrisgerman1983

i found that giving a wipe with methyl hydrate before staining will show you any glue that you did miss. then just sand some more at least you know before the stain is on

Ohio Ron

Go with what Rick said, these tips can help a lot.

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