2-1/8" hole plug - Door Knob - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-07-2011, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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2-1/8" hole plug - Door Knob

I am trying to find a way to make a 2-1/8" wood plug to fill the void left in a door from a conventional door knob install. These are old 5 panel doors with glass knobs, that I would prefer to save, and the previous owner drilled for the newer conventional door knobs, above the old glass knobs and put a plate over the existing holes.

I want to go back to the original glass knobs, and plug the new holes, sand and re-paint the doors, but I cannot find any plug cutter. I would like to know where to locate a pre-cut plug, or what the best method to create a plug would be using standard tools.

Also, these doors are old, and was wondering if the plug would look that bad even when painted, that it may be worth it to put a vener over the raised sections, to appear as the old wood. Would it be noticable on the edges where the vener was laid? I currently have no experiance with veners, but wanted some advice on that. If this option would work...

Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-07-2011, 03:12 PM
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I would think any hole-saw would be able to cut a decent plug for you. Or, a router, bandsaw, scroll saw or jig saw would work, though they might need a little more "finessing" to get the exact size right.
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post #3 of 9 Old 02-07-2011, 03:25 PM
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Just about anything will work as a backer and the fit does not need to tight. Just make sure to use something thinner than the door then fill in with bondo. It will probably take three applications of filling/sanding to get it level and with no voids. I usually use ridgid foam insulation since it can be cut and reshaped quickly.
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-07-2011, 03:35 PM
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If you use a 2" hole saw, it will leave a cut plug approx 2 1/8". Fill the gaps with Bondo, sand and paint.










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post #5 of 9 Old 02-07-2011, 04:36 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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YUP, and...

Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
If you use a 2" hole saw, it will leave a cut plug approx 2 1/8". Fill the gaps with Bondo, sand and paint.










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You may have to drill from both sides using the 1/4" pilot hole to center the hole saw. Depending on the thickness you need, a both sides approach will eliminate the plug from getting jammed in the hole saw. Further, orient the grain on the plug the same as the grain on the door rail, to minimize wood movement issues. Try to use a similar wood, if possible.
Bondo will work great to fill any small gaps or Durhams Rock Hard water putty will sand and paint up nicely. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-07-2011, 05:53 PM
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I always make sure to plug the hole with something thinner than the door so that there will be nothing but bondo on the surface. If you went slightly oversized, you could sand the plug flush. In any case it has been my experience that the repair has more of a tendency to show through if you try to have a plug that is flush with your stile.

Even some wadded up paper will work as a backing for bondo. Maybe Bill has a trick when plugging so it doesn't show through. Maybe beveling the edges of the plug and the hole in the door so you can get more bondo between?
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-08-2011, 01:01 PM
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If worried about visibility, why not make it a decorative thing? Glue up some "star" patterns of triangles in various contrasting species and then drill to fit the hole. Don't hide it, display it. :)
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-08-2011, 08:01 PM
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Don't you have a buddy close by that has a lathe? It wouldn't take much to turn a few.
Mike Hawkins
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-08-2011, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sketel View Post
Just about anything will work as a backer and the fit does not need to tight. Just make sure to use something thinner than the door then fill in with bondo. It will probably take three applications of filling/sanding to get it level and with no voids. I usually use ridgid foam insulation since it can be cut and reshaped quickly.
+1 on this. thats the way i do it.
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