mdlbldrmatt135

Ok, I'm doing a built in in my home office. I ripped out some built in cabinets and want to put in a built in desk. ( Im using some metal storage cabinets / files underneath)

I'm torn between using HP Laminate or a Veneer Ply for th desktop. I want something durable for the writing / computer surface.......

Thoughts?

pianoman

I don`t know what HP is...but I would suggest that green plastic or robber laminate for drafting boards

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mdlbldrmatt135

Hp High Pressure like Formica or Wilson Art brands........

sausagefingers

I've always used veneer core plywood. As long as it's a good quality and not the Chinese kind, it will do great. If it's finished well it will be smooth and durable and , as of yet, haven't had any problems with it, even when I've finished some myself. And i suck at any kind of stain/paint/sealing. haha....

Handyman

You can always used a really nice grained wood for the top and put a glass or plexiglass over it.

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mdlbldrmatt135

Well, I was all set to go with the good cabinet grade ply........ when on a trip to the Blue BORG i came across a SOS return piece of Laminate for 25 bucks.....

cabinetman

Other than the glass that was suggested, which you could still put over the laminate, the laminate is probably the better of the two choices for wear and expense.

HPL is available in a few thicknesses. One is 1/32", intended for vertical applications, like cabinet faces and doors. The other is 1/16" intended for horizontal applications, like countertops. Just a tidbit of info.

You'll still need a substrate for it and contact cement. I would use a solvent based contact cement. Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area. Fumes are toxic.

mdlbldrmatt135

Yep yep... Picking up some PB whent he rain stops........ and I have some solvent bases Contact cement... I've done a few countertops..... I was thinking about something different.. but het the laminate will wotk and since it's a whit "pattern" it's pretty universal

Gus Dering

When ever we do a plastic top we laminate a "backer" sheet to the under side to resist the tension of the laminate on the top. That can be another piece of laminate that you have on hand or an actual backer sheet that is usually black and thin and cheap.
Without the backer the top will probably bow and there is not much you can do to resist it.
Remember not to try and do too much with your router. Get the trimming as close as you can but a sharp laminate file is your best friend.

BHOFM

I have been using laminate flooring for desk tops
and making a nice batten edge. Tough and looks
great. I put it down with construction adhesive.

There are lots of choices as well.

Evil Scotsman

BHOFM, do you have any pics of any desks that you have done? I want to build an L shaped desk in the WORST WAY! We have a store near my In Laws called Ollie's, all closeout stuff, but they have a LOT of laminate floor. I kept looking at it and trying to figure out what I could do with it. YOUR IDEA SOUNDS PERFECT and exactly what I need!

Cheers

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woodman42

I agree with Gus on installing the backer sheet or liner as we call it, even if you used your excess laminate. As long as you balance out the plywood.

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BHOFM

Sorry it took so long, old age, just forgot..

All my desk and table tops are 3/4" ply laminated to 1 1/2", they don't
warp.

Evil Scotsman

Not a problem on the time, I was just able to get on today anyway. Those pieces look GREAT! Just so I am understanding, they are laminate floor on top of plywood? Is that what everyone is refering to as a backer/liner board?

Thanks

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mics_54

Backer? I am assuming warping of substrates is caused by heat forming of laminates which causes the expansion of laminate. The subsequent cooling causing the shrinkage thus the uneven tension and warping of post formed tops purchased at the big box stores. It's common. I do alot of flat work and never had a top warp after the fact. Perhaps its also because the manner in which I attach the tops. About the only problem I have had with laminate is bubbles/outgassing causing delamination in spots but this is rare. I remedied the problem with 1/16" holes drilled from benieth to facilitate bleed off. (very carefully drilled) Adhesive can be somewhat reactivated with the heat of an iron on a towel.
But I'm no expert.

BHOFM

I use 3/4" construction grade exterior grade plywood.
Two layers glued together with TiteBond III. Clamped
overnight and then cut to final size.
Then I spread construction adhisive with a notched
trowel, 1/8 think, small anyway and lay the laminate
flooring with a board on top and weights for a couple
of hours. Trim with a router, install the batten edge.

We did a lot of these for the school and never had
a warpage problem.

One thing to watch for is defects in the edges of the
plywood, it will show up in the edges of the laminate
it you are not careful. Make a test pass around with
your router to make sure the bearing is not going
to hit one of the voids.