Router Table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 16 Old 03-05-2017, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Router Table

I purchased my first router last week and today I built a table for it.

Got some cabinets from where I work, added a base and some casters. Found 4' x 8' sheets of double laminate melamine for $10.

First time ever using a router and found the plunge base worked easily for cutting in a plate. I plan on adding some bracing to the top where it extends away from the cabinets. Thought this worked well for accessing the router underneath.


I could use some advise on where to cut in a miter/t-slot combo strip and a table fence.

Would you cut slots in the top for a fence or should I somehow make slides off the edge of the table?



Here are some pics,please help me put the finishing touches to it.











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post #2 of 16 Old 03-05-2017, 08:54 PM
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Nice job for a first effort.

Are you going to round over the edges with a round over bit or just hit the cut edges with a file?

I made my own top and hung it off the back of my rolling miter saw station. Not much room in my shop. I was originally going to cut some slots, changed my mind and when I finally get around to making one it will be the type that uses toggle clamps.

My temporary one is a 2 X 4 with a notch cut out of it.
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-05-2017, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by subroc View Post
Nice job for a first effort.

Are you going to round over the edges with a round over bit or just hit the cut edges with a file?

.
Thanks. I'm thinking of making a border around the top and then round over
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-08-2017, 12:53 AM
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Looks like a serious router table. Nice and spacious. Do you plan to create a height-adjust mechanism? If you are bolting the router to the face plate, you may have to use the plunger's lock nut, I think.

John
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-09-2017, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by blackpearl View Post
Looks like a serious router table. Nice and spacious. Do you plan to create a height-adjust mechanism? If you are bolting the router to the face plate, you may have to use the plunger's lock nut, I think.

John
I'm not sure how to build the height
adjustment that you talk about but would
love to. Any pointers how to do so would
be great.

I do have a fixed base

Are guys building their own lifts?
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-09-2017, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OutdoorSeeker View Post
I'm not sure how to build the height
adjustment that you talk about but would
love to. Any pointers how to do so would
be great.

I do have a fixed base

Are guys building their own lifts?
Ive seen a few guys roll their own. I know Shopnotes magazine had pretty good plans, be deviled if i can remember which one though. A google search should turn up plenty of plans, building is a lot cheaper than buying at any rate

I need cheaper hobby
etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
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post #7 of 16 Old 03-11-2017, 12:58 AM
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I have seen many DIY designs on the net, including the use of a car-jack under the router. But something like the one in this link may be easy to add to your design:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/75194
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post #8 of 16 Old 03-11-2017, 06:16 AM
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router lifts

You say you want to adjust the height from the top of the table.... a router lift. Some routers have this feature builtin, like Milwaukee, Bosch etc. As far as building your own lift, most fixed router bases you have a spin the motor to change the heights, then lock it tight to prevent vibration from changing it. This is why router lifts are so popular, they do all this with one tool from the top.

There are nice router lift plans on Ebay. One of our members, Al B Thayer, designed them and he has made videos to show how they work.

Most really good router lifts cost more than a good router, so beware. I use the Jess Em Mast R lift 2 in my tables with a PC 7518 3 1/4 HP router. It walks through anything I've used it for. The Jess Em has a height lock cam which prevents vibration from moving the bit height.

Don't forget, a router table fence need not be parallel to the table edge. The fence cane be clamped at one end or bolted with a pivot bolt or have slots on either side of the bit. Obviously, your T track would want to be parallel to one of the table edges, however.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #9 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Bought a Dado jig and guide clamp to cut in some track. Works really well for dado cuts.


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post #10 of 16 Old 03-20-2017, 02:13 AM
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It looks real pro!
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post #11 of 16 Old 03-20-2017, 04:45 PM
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Looks good. I need to build one as well.
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-21-2017, 09:20 PM
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Nice work. Out of curiosity though, why so much space behind the fence? It seems like more fence travel than I have seen before and wonder if there is a reason.

David
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post #13 of 16 Old 03-22-2017, 09:44 AM
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Is that just miter track along the front or combination miter and t-track? I ask because I don't see how you would get the t-nuts into the track. I see you allowed for that at the back of the fence tracks.
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post #14 of 16 Old 03-22-2017, 09:45 AM
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Also, generally the miter track goes all the way across.
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-22-2017, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Nice work. Out of curiosity though, why so much space behind the fence? It seems like more fence travel than I have seen before and wonder if there is a reason.



David


My design might be bad but I am learning as I go. Just getting started and I had no plans, just built as I went. I really like to hear from you all and will make changes as I go. So thanks for any tips you can send my way.

My table saw does not allow for dado cuts. So I wanted a fence with some extra travel so I could make dados with my router on panel board. Plus I can use that space behind the fence for clamping down material with bench clamps. We'll see if this all works out like I thought.

Remember I'm a rookie so don't try this at home


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post #16 of 16 Old 03-22-2017, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanchez View Post
Is that just miter track along the front or combination miter and t-track? I ask because I don't see how you would get the t-nuts into the track. I see you allowed for that at the back of the fence tracks.


Your right! I goofed big time. I will remove the track and continue it all the way across. The fence I have is just temporary and I plan on making one with a taller back.


Do you think making dados on the table is a good Idea? I used the plunge base to set my tracks. But I wonder if a straight bit would cut dados in one cut or is that too much for a router bit. Would I still have to cut in a couple passes?

This would be for drawer box bottoms where a 1/4 inch panel slides into the dado slots.


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