John in Tennessee

Radial arm saw, Craftsman Miter and Delta table, saw

gusthehonky

Forrest WW 1. According to Forrest Blades online, is ok for all three saws. I have a WW2 in my TS and never will use anything else.

mmtools

Gus' is right. The WWII is very good. I have been using a blade made by Tenyru called the "Gold Medal". Have been impressed by how well it cross cuts (jointer smooth), rips (same) . IMHO its a good blade also...

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Mike O
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sweensdv

It's as much about what you are sawing as it is about what tool you are doing the sawing with. Some blades are great for hardwoods but not very good with plywood and vice versa. A good quality combination blade will probably give you the best results overall for ripping and crosscutting but I'm not sure I'd put one on a RAS.

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Dave

knotscott

I definitely agree with Dave...No such things as an absolute best blade for all things, but some are better than others.

With the RAS (or SCMS) you're better off with a blade with low to negative hook angle (no more than 10°, and preferably less). A steep positive hook angle gives a better feed rate for the TS and is ok for the CMS, so you may need to end up getting two blades for best and safest results.

Something like the Infinity 010-060 is a great choice for fine cuts, crosscuts, ply, veneers, melamine, and some general purpose ripping up to ~ 6/4" in all 3 saws. The WWIIs and comparable general purpose and rip blades are not a good match for use on a RAS pt SCMS. For ripping thicker material on the TS and some general purpose cuts, I'd look to something like a Forrest WWII 30T to compliment the Infinity blade. If you just want to rip on the TS, something like a 24T ripper or 30T glue line ripper from Freud or CMT is a good choice.

You'll also have to choose thin or full kerf depending on your saw power and what you cut.

Here's a review of 3 dozen or so of my favorite (and not so favorite) blades.

Here's a tutorial: Saw Blades 101

Ed'sGarage

I'm using a WWII and love it.
Ed

Butch

well, I'm gonna go against the trend here, and say that the German-made Leitz blades(@ $10 ) are superior from a cash standpoint... I can buy 10 or so BRAND NEW blades for the price of 1 WWII, and when they go dull(as will the WW) I chuck 'em(or sell 'em for scrap metal). no more resharpenening costs, and ALL blades need to be resharpened after prolonged use. these blades cut clean(most all new blades do), are offered in many teeth designs, and are also sold under the Delta name...but you won't pay that little at the BORGS... they have a 10 tooth ripper that'll knock yer socks off on thick oak!!!

not bad-mouthing the Forrest blades, just see no need to pay so much for a piece of steel,when less expensive will accomplish the same thing.
besides, you have any idea how long it would take you to use/dull 10 saw blades?

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An honest days work for an honest days pay....

knotscott

Hi Butch - The Leitz deals through Mike Jackson were/are a great deal, but they were closeouts and the selection is dwindling fast. He's currently only showing (4) 10" models available, all of which are full kerf:

35-626 10" z60 ATB 5/8" bore $10
35-629 10" z48 TC with a .156 kerf 1" bore $10
35-610 10" z10 SQ 5/8" bore $10
LEITZ PRO SERIES 10” z30 neg hook ATB 5/8” bore great for chop saw or radial arm quick work $10 (8 left)

If the OP is going full kerf, the 60T (ATB, ~ 10° hook) would be a reasonable choice for many applications that would make a great compliment to a ripping blade...that 30T Leitz is great for SCMS and RAS, and will also work in a TS, though it's not as aggressive as some rippers. I've used both of these blades and still have the 60T....gave the 30T to my uncle for his RAS. Total for those two should be ~ $30 shipped....pretty nice deal for German precision and high quality components.

Woodchuck1957

Just out of curiosity how do some of you feel about Systematic blades, I have two full kerf blades, one my father gave to me new and the other I aquired with a used tablesaw saw recently. I think they look pretty like a pretty good blade. I don't see them mentioned much anywhere though.

gusthehonky

No question about it, ther is no perfect blade that can do everything, I was trying to stay within the constraints of the post which started this thread. I still feel if ther were only one blade you could own in the world, and in that world the only machines you were able to use were a TS, CS, RAS, that might be the best blade for that situation. If the blade were to be used as a wet saw(tile), concrete saw, and for sheet metal, the WW 1 would be a terrible choice. To ask what is the best tool requiring 110/220V to run?, would be equally speculative.

I truly respect and understand the various practices mentioned, and admit there are multiple pro grade I have never used or heard of. I rely on throw away blades for work, or if I fear buried nails, The Diablo and DeWalts are my most used/replaced, those $7 O? brand blades get plenty of use also. As a new member I hope my posts won't paint me a some jerk-off, I find it hard to type opinion without sounding bossy.

knotscott

I've never had a chance to use a WWI but it looks to be a similar configuration to the Infinity 010-060, and it should work with all three saws well. Any idea how the WWI differs from the Duraline? Any Forrest blade I've ever seen or used is top notch.

Butch

I didn't realize they had limited #s of blades left...glad I just picked up 4 from Mike...

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An honest days work for an honest days pay....

WDChew

I have both the WWI and WWII. As noted before, the negative hook on the WWI is made for the RAS (and miter saws). This isn't so much a cutting performance issue as much as safety/control. Both RAS and miters cut down on the wood and the RAS moves away from the fence and pulls itself across toward you (unless the board is narrow enough to start the blade from the outside and push it toward the fence.) The negative hook doesn't pull the saw as much.

The WWII is designed for the table saw which of course has the wood moving into the blade, so the hook angle can be aggressive to improve the cutting speed. It will cut just as good on a RAS, but be very careful.

mmtools

Having been in the Woodworking business for 65 years plus...I have found that a thin blade works much better on a miter saw. Something with an anti-vibration and 72-90 Teeth per inch. We recommend the Amana Blade or the Bosch Blade.
For a Table Saw and Radial Arm Saw, I recommend a thicker blade. Depending on what you are cutting will determine which blade you use. They make melamine blades, cut-off, rip, plywood, and general purpose blades. Just about any blade for your application. I would still recommend the Amana or Bosch blade. They are just a bit higher quality blade than most other blades. They have great technology, carbide and steel grinding.
Steve- www.toolsandmachinery.com