Used Thickness Planers and Bandsaws - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 06-29-2012, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Used Thickness Planers and Bandsaws

Hi all - been a while since I posted. New job, recent move, and got engaged.

I am back in the garage getting it together and looking to add a planer and bandsaw to the shop and have see several on CL. My question is regarding what I should look for in a used planer ie signs of wear, indications of potential issues?

I hope you all can lead me down the right path.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 22 Old 06-29-2012, 02:25 AM
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Run a board through the planer if you can. The biggest issue is snipe - a slightly deeper cut extending a few inches from the front or back edge. This can happen when the work piece is not held down by both the in-feed and out-feed rollers. It's pretty common on lunchbox planers, but there are techniques to removing snipe. If there are nicks in the blades you may see lines down the board. DeWalt planers are well regarded. I have a Makita and like it.
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post #3 of 22 Old 06-29-2012, 05:33 AM
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The basics of used machines always apply, visual inspection, feel (vibration etc) and making sure it runs and does what it is supposed to and being able to tell if this is a real problem or a setup problem. Honestly, the first few machine purchases anyone makes "on their own" are somewhat of a wing and a prayer but making sure a planer planes and a bandsaw cuts goes a long way to reducing the risk.

With planers as with all machines (just like cars) it is better to ask about a specific model. For instance the pattern issues for a Rockwell 22-100 planer are completely different from a Oliver 299. Judging the wear on a Dewalt lunchbox is diffeernt from a Powermatic 180, where the PM 180 may have visible grooves in the bed and significant wear on the chipbreaker it may still have 10 hobby use lifetimes left, where a lunchbox planer with significantly less signs of wear may be on its last breath, since its life expectancy in lineal feet of wood is on the order of 100 less than the PM. Many of the PM planers were run in lumberyards and saw more wood in a week than a lunchbox may see in 10 years in a hobby shop.

My point is understand how the machines you are going to look at work and make sure they do indeed work, but try to gather what may be setup and what may be a real issue. For example snipe is not inherently an issue with full sized planers so likely snipe can be "tuned" out, it can be an issue with lunchbox planers and harder to tune out. A bandsaw that exhibits significant drift is likely the blade, and maybe some setup.

The older machines are often the best machines BUT a part that is easy to find for a current or shortly out of production machine might be a difficult or impossible part to source for an old machine especially when the company that has built it is long since gone. My point again is know as much about a specific machine as possible before looking at it, though with CL sometimes that is impossible and you have to go on your gut.
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post #4 of 22 Old 06-29-2012, 07:56 AM
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There was a post not too long ago about a guy that bought a used planer on craigslist. He got it home and was having all kinds of problems with it. Turned out the rubber feed rollers were all chewed up. Having similar problems with my planer that I've used for many years I think the feed rollers would be the first thing I would look at. The blades I wouldn't be as concerned with. I would look for more repair issues rather than routine maintenence. Sometimes these companies change models and discontinue parts for the older models. Then if you need to refurbish an older planer your in trouble. Even with the Delta planer I bought less than 10 years ago I was unable to buy the factory replacement bolts that hold the blades in. I've got mine jury rigged with over the counter bolts so if you look at a machine and there is obvious jury rigged repairs I would shy away from it.
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post #5 of 22 Old 06-29-2012, 11:12 AM
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+1 with Steve on the feed rollers.

My Delta 22-580 has split the front feed roller. Likely happened when a board got stuck.

Knives may be good but easily replaced.

Definately have to run to ensure it works.
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post #6 of 22 Old 06-29-2012, 03:51 PM
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Good point about feed rollers, it also makes my point more clear about specific machines. Many planers don't have rubber feedrollers and thus wouldn't be anything to be concerned about except in a small number of cases. It is all about the specific machine.
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post #7 of 22 Old 06-29-2012, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all

for your replies. I was looking at craiglist as a way to test the use and my ability with these tools. I appreciate the headsup on what to be aware of.
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post #8 of 22 Old 06-30-2012, 02:22 PM
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I purchased a Performax 12" planer from Menards a year ago now it needs new brushes, Menards hasnt been any help. Does anyone know a website that could help me find parts
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post #9 of 22 Old 06-30-2012, 02:29 PM
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Do a google search for your tool and replacement parts, should come up with a few.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #10 of 22 Old 06-30-2012, 02:29 PM
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mcmash54 you are going to have a difficult time.

This appears to be a Menard's label on a machine made by someone else.

The Performax brand is well known for drum sanders, and were purchased by Jet.

If you can find the original manufacturer, then sites like this one may be able to help.

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/type/Planer-Parts

Good luck.
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post #11 of 22 Old 06-30-2012, 02:31 PM
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Hey by the way, congratulations on getting engaged!
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post #12 of 22 Old 06-30-2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmash54
I purchased a Performax 12" planer from Menards a year ago now it needs new brushes, Menards hasnt been any help. Does anyone know a website that could help me find parts
Take the out and measure them. There are several online sources. And good hardware stores or repair shod stock a variety of the common sizes.

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post #13 of 22 Old 07-01-2012, 10:30 AM
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Others have given good advise.
I would add, that, if you haven't used a lunchbox planer, be sure to run it and see if you (and your neighbors) can deal with the noise. I bought a used PM lunchbox, and felt I had to restrict my planer use to certain times.
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post #14 of 22 Old 07-01-2012, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
Others have given good advise.
I would add, that, if you haven't used a lunchbox planer, be sure to run it and see if you (and your neighbors) can deal with the noise. I bought a used PM lunchbox, and felt I had to restrict my planer use to certain times.
Good point about noise. Luckily I don't have "close" neighbors but I do have to worry if the fiance will be fine will the noise coming from the garage.

thanks1
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post #15 of 22 Old 07-02-2012, 06:58 AM
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Used Thickness Planers and Bandsaws

Good point about feed rollers, it also makes my point more clear about specific machines. Many Hygrometers planers don't have rubber feedrollers and thus wouldn't be anything to be concerned about except in a small number of cases. It is all about the specific machine.
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post #16 of 22 Old 07-02-2012, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Bandsaw??

So everyone..all the advice has been planer based. How about the bandsaw? HP? 10" or greater?
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post #17 of 22 Old 07-02-2012, 09:47 PM
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The advise was focused on the planer since this was how you phrased the original question.

"My question is regarding what I should look for in a used planer ie signs of wear, indications of potential issues?"

A bandsaw is a completely different machine.

You do not state what you want the machine to do.

Do you want to resaw? If so, what thickness?

How much do you have to spend?

Does the machine need to be 110V?

You mention 10in. These machines tend to be 3 wheel. This design puts a lot of stress on the blade due to the small wheel meaning a tight turning radius. This can be a problem for the blade resulting in failure.

Most people would look at 14in two wheel for the smallest size. This is where I started.

I later replaced the 14in machine with a 17in machine mostly for the width of cut rather than the resaw depth difference. The 17in machine happened to require 220V circuit.
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post #18 of 22 Old 07-02-2012, 09:57 PM
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I would start out large and in charge and get yourself a Tannewitz BS.
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post #19 of 22 Old 07-02-2012, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. View Post
I would start out large and in charge and get yourself a Tannewitz BS.

Phooey, if you are going to sue the space might as well get a great one instead of a good one... and while your at it get THE rare one, women will swoon and men will pay admission for the mighty Oliver 115-R, 38" wheels and a massive two sided swing away feeder, not even a Yate Snowflake can compete for attention in a room with one of these!


Bandsaws with true hobby quality start at 14" aside from the oddball like the Inca. It is like every other machine where condition is king. Are all the parts there and servicable, if not can you source then and what is the price. Motor, bearings, guides, table, fence, tires etc. In the end I feel it is best to ask about specific saws, while the basics are the same many machines have specific things to look for or understand. Take the Powermatic 141 14" bandsaw, it is a MUCH better built saw than the Delta 14" and its clones BUT sourcing parts will be harder and more expensive, a set of the thick rubber tires for the PM will probably run you 3 times what a set of urethane tires will run for the Delta. You don't have to worry about the tracking arm on the PM where many of the old Deltas will be bent. The list goes on and on, just between those two saws.

I think one of the best used saws in the under 1K arena is the Delta 28-350 20" saw. It is not too hard to find, often a school saw in good shape, has standard block guides which are easy to refurb and use and it is better built heavier than all but 3 or 4 of the Asian saws 20" and under. I often see good runners sold for $600-$700. If takes too much room or pushes the budget look for a Delta 14" US built saw, usually a 250-400 saw that is cheap and easy to work on and modify but it does have its limitations.

In the end the more info we have about a specific saw you are looking at the more and better info we can give you, pictures are often really helpful.
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post #20 of 22 Old 07-03-2012, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
The advise was focused on the planer since this was how you phrased the original question.

"My question is regarding what I should look for in a used planer ie signs of wear, indications of potential issues?"

A bandsaw is a completely different machine.

You do not state what you want the machine to do.

Do you want to resaw? If so, what thickness?

How much do you have to spend?

Does the machine need to be 110V?

You mention 10in. These machines tend to be 3 wheel. This design puts a lot of stress on the blade due to the small wheel meaning a tight turning radius. This can be a problem for the blade resulting in failure.

Most people would look at 14in two wheel for the smallest size. This is where I started.

I later replaced the 14in machine with a 17in machine mostly for the width of cut rather than the resaw depth difference. The 17in machine happened to require 220V circuit.
So true DP. I didn't realize that I didn't add bandsaw as I originally started to ask only about the planer. I hope it didn't come off wrong.

Thank you for you response and advice though.
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