Speed control for band saw? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 11-22-2009, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Speed control for band saw?

I want a spped control for my band saw so I can use it for other purposes, such as cutting metal when needed.
I do not want to go the graduated pulley route. I want an electric control.
Can any motor be controlled like this or do I need to know what kind of motor I have? I have a 14" Delta band saw.
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-22-2009, 08:18 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Quick answer: Can't be done cheaply!

Requires a DC motor and electronic speed controls. An AC motor and electronic speed controller will also work.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable-frequency_drive
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Drives/GS2_(115_-z-_230_-z-_460_-z-_575_VAC_V-z-Hz_Control)
You're better off with a multi-speed mechanical transmission like a drill press which has a similiar speed reduction pulley system. Or if you just want to cut small pieces, get a cut off saw designed for metal Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93762
I've had one similiar for about 25 yrs, from Sears.It's paid for itseft 100 times. bill
OMT You will need metal cutting blades with much finer teeth than for wood.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G4030

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-23-2009 at 12:23 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-23-2009, 09:55 AM
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From your question I am not sure that you want to modify an existing band saw that you own or are looking for one to purchase that has speed control.

If you are wanting to modify one you own I do not think that is practicable. Many years ago I have seen such devices sold, but they were not very reliable for most motors. It has been a long time since I saw one.

Have you done a google search for new one? I did not see much except for partable and expensive fixed ones.

G
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 02:31 AM
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had the same problem with my craftsman 22400 ,, only 2 speeds for wood ,,,go to mlcswoodworking.com and you can get a 20 amp rheostat speed control and a dead man foot switch for under 60 bucks delivered ,all you do is plug your saw into it ,,,so simple and DONE CHEAPLY ,,and magnate.net has blades that work on steel,, UPDATE ,,, Mr woodnthings i checked and my saw has an induction motor [ they call it a continuous duty motor in specs ] so i will be sending rheostat back or convertinting to a universal motor ,,,you sir are right

Last edited by charigus; 11-28-2010 at 12:56 PM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 07:25 AM
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In my pea brain.......the problem isn't gearing motor down,its the metal chips that get everywhere.Really think about gettin a "Porta-Band" first.They are so dang convenient,besides portability,pop ours in a vise and use it that way as well.We have a horz. gearhead and a vert BS in machine shop and its wierd how much the porta-band still gets used.Both of the stationary machines are so nasty(in a good,gettin R done,way)that I wouldn't want a pc of wood within 15 ft of them.BW
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 07:52 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Agreed!

That's why I recommend a saw like this from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/horizon...saw-93762.html
I have an old, 25 yrs Craftsman similar to it. Great for metal projects. bill
BTW That speed control recommended is for brush type motors like routers as far as I know, and won't work with the induction motors usually found on machine tools like bandsaws. But I could be wrong?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-28-2010 at 07:54 AM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 08:04 AM
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Those little saws are iconic in metal fab world.Have seen them used as basically portable's on tailgates of welding trucks(minus legs).They just keep pluggin away.........

If you have an old C-man thats too-cool!I don't know the timeline on those saws.They're a reverse eng of what?.....an old Rockwell?Theres a nice vert/horz C-man on the Bay right now thats a Beeeeuuute,gonna make someone a fine saw.BW
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 08:22 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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My other one is this

http://www.rollinsaw.com/band_saws/E...l_band_saw.htm
Has a horizontal table and very precise. Will cut 8" x 12", but I can't lift that stuff.....without a crane! bill

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Last edited by woodnthings; 11-28-2010 at 08:27 AM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 08:56 AM
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Cool deal on the roll-in,they're sweet!

Our vert is an interesting story.I basically stole a mint cond. Walker Turner,'46? radial arm drill.At the suggestion of a machine shop buddy who had a cpl of the later Rockwell's........they're useful,not so much as stand alones...but in our case to augment the Bridgeport.Fst fwd a cpl years.........was building race headers/exhausts for kneedrag RR bikes and theres issue with tubing contamination runnin it over the other saws in shop.So started looking for a sm footprint vert BS.Didn't need or want a big Do-all,Grob or anything in that class.....just something sm.Found a WT 14",1940 sumthin BS with the factory gearbx.It had never seen a pc of metal!I snagged it and parked it next to the radial drill and NEVER looked back.Carter guides,Baldor motor,Lennox Die-master II blades and a quick tuneup has turned into a little workhorse.Lots of gauge metal and tubing.BW
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 11:10 AM
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holy crap

Mr woodnthings i checked and my saw has an induction motor [ they call it a continuous duty motor in specs ] so i will be sending rheostat back or convertinting to a universal motor ,,,you sir are right

Last edited by charigus; 11-28-2010 at 12:57 PM.
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post #11 of 11 Old 11-29-2010, 10:55 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Wood cutting speed VS Metal cutting

Most modern bandsaws run at about 3500 FPM, some have a slower speed of 1700 FPM.
Metal cutting bandsaws, used for cutting steel have blades designed for cutting metal, and run under 300 FPM. That's roughly a 12 to 1 reduction. So any combination of reducers, jack shafts or the like must get down to that speed.
Both my metal cutters run dry, no lubricant, but the commercial ones use a cutting fluid to cool the blade and flush away the particles and they can run at a faster speed.
Aluminum can be cut with a woodworking blade, coarse tooth, at woodworking speeds, it is just harder on the blades and they will dull faster. A metal cutting blade, fine tooth, run at that speed will heat up and bind the aluminum to the teeth, not good! bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-29-2010 at 10:58 AM.
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