jeffbayne

hey guys, I'm looking at router options. This would be for simple shelving, mantels... trim kind of work. round overs and coves... not anything big like raised panels or the like. If i eventually got a router table, it'd be a small workbench top kind...

I've been looking at either a ryobi or PC 691. I like the d handle because of the trigger... This is not going to get much use at all, so a $300 unit is way too big a deal.

So, who needs variable speed? Whats the actual advantage?

Who needs plunge? Is it in the way/a hassle if i'm just going to lock it and not use the plunge part?

Is 1.5hp enough? Who needs more than that?

I don't see myself even requiring 1/2" shanked bits... the obvious benefit is strength, but has anyone ever broken off a 1/4" shank bit?

Help me dwindle down the features so its not overkill. Thanks guys,

jeff

LarrySch

Hey Jeff - I have PC routers and would not look back thinking that I purchased the wrong router. The variable speed would be nice if you were going to use large router bits - none of the 6 routers that I own are variable speed and as of this date - I do not think I am missing anything. But if I could only have one router it would be a plunge router. Your ability to do so many things with the plunge router out weighs any other type. I do not think I use my D handle or stationary router hardly at all. I always grab my plunge router for large projects. I think all of my routers are the lower HP. Again they have never failed me. 1/2" shank - if I could purchase all of my bits in 1/2" I would do it. Its not so much the benefit of strength - but I think the 1/2" shanks turn truer than the 1/4" shanks - so again I would purchase all of my bits in 1/2" shanks - except three of my routers have the 1/4" collets so I have to have a collection of 1/4" shanks bits. One thing you may look into and something I have been using a lot in smaller project is a Porter Cable laminate router. I love that little router and just have a blast using it. I think if the PC laminate router will do the job - it is the first router I grab.

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GeorgeC

I have used an old Craftsman 1/4" shank, 1 1/2 hp router for over 25 years. It has been all I needed until I recently ran across a special on Craftsman Professional with plunge and fixed bases. Bought it just because I wanted it and haven't even used it y et.

G

BHOFM

Look at the size and weight, I have a large Craftsman,
1.5hp and a small, old, B&D, 1/2hp. The smaller one
is the router of choice unless I just need the HP.
They are both fixed speed, all I have ever needed.
I think I would like a plunge, but just haven't taken
the plunge yet.

Also look at the adjustment system, is it easy to use?

EDIT

Just looked at both models you mentioned, I can see the
PC handle getting in the way of some of the things I do.
The Craftsman has larger handles with the trigger and it
has been a problem several times. The little B&D just
has knobs and a off/on switch which I like! It also has
a micrometer adjuster that is great.

mics_54

The ability to one hand a router gets my vote. I will buy a smaller lam router next. I use an old dewalt mostly. I think its a 3/4 or 1 hp. I also have a delta router shaper that I use for any doors, base, jambs, crown etc. Sometimes I use a rotozip for light duty edging on shelves and counter tops. It needs a better base plate though.

knotscott

Hi Jeff - I'd still get the capability to go with 1/2" shank even for lighter work.....it's simply a stronger shaft with less vibration. I have indeed broken 1/4" shafts. There's really not much advantage in limiting yourself to 1/4"....most 1/2" routers accept both shafts. 11 to 13 amps should be plenty for most use, especially if you stick with a good name router. Variable speed is handy in case you ever put it in a table. Some folks use the plunge alot, I only use my a little but it does offer some capability the fixed base doesnt'. Find one that feels good to you.

The 690 is a solid well proven router. I'm also favorably impressed with the Milwaukee 5615, Hitachi M12VC, Bosch 1617, and Freud FT1700. Amazon is currently offering the MW5615-24 fixed/plunge combo kit for $123 shipped. Tool King has the 5615 fixed for $93 shipped.
ReconditionedSales has some nice deals too.

dbhost

I use the variable speed on my routers. It helps with different materials to be able to slow down / speed up the bit.

Once you start cutting stopped dadoes with your router, you will wonder why you didn't get a plunge. They are WELL worth the money and effort...

It got me by for a lot of years with soft woods and MDF, some hard woods. It's okay, not great. A stronger router makes the work easier.

[quoteI don't see myself even requiring 1/2" shanked bits... the obvious benefit is strength, but has anyone ever broken off a 1/4" shank bit?[/quote]

I have, a couple of them. One of the main reasons I went to a bigger router. Those 1/2 inch shank bits just aren't strong enough.

Help me dwindle down the features so its not overkill. Thanks guys,

jeff[/quote]

Jeff,

I started with a Ryobi 1.5 HP 1/4" shank collet router, and used it for a lot of years doing very basic stuff. I got real tired of busting the shanks on bits (a lot of broken Craftsman bits came out of my garage).

If all you are EVER going to do with the router, is trim up shelf edges and the like, and NEVER use it for raised panels, mitered door frames, Cutting dadoes etc... then I would say go with that 1.5 HP Ryobi, a 1/4" bit set, a table and be happy with it. BUT, if you MIGHT want to elaborate on the art later on, I would HIGHLY recommend a bigger router with more features. I personally moved to a Hitachi HM12VC combination kit with the fixed and plunge bases. The fixed base lives in my router table, the plunger is used for all my freehand stuff. It handles the bigger bits, and harder woods with ease. And although I don't know the current price on it, I bought my less than 6 months ago new, on Amazon.com for $123.00. Sure, twice the cost of the Ryobi, but half that of the PC, and just as good of a router in most owners eyes. Some guys that have this set prefer it over the PC...

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musky_xl

Variable speed is a must... for me anyway.

Ive got a few routers (both plunge and fixed) and I love the Bosch 1619.

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jeffbayne

That is all great info guys! a lot of things I wouldn't have guessed, and wouldn't have heard from a salesman...

I think i'm going to steer clear of the Ryobi, and aim for maybe the Hitachi- seems to be some good deals online, and go for both the fixed and plunge bases. Its prolly a lot cheaper to buy it all at once instead of getting the plunge base later.

If I do want a table.... What is the best value there? Or, should i just build my own? Theres a lot of plans out there- any favorites?

thanks again!
jeff

dbhost

If it were me, with the experiences I have had, I would say build your own router table unless you have the mucho dinero for a big prefab table with a nice fence system.

The Hitachi seems to be creeping up in price, but still a great value. I can't express how well this router works. Smooth and quiet are not words generally attributed to a router, but the HM12VC qualifies in both regards...

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jeffbayne

Hey guys, ok, I found a Milwaukee 5616 fixed base at a local pawn shop. It is absolutely brand new- there's never been a bit in either collet- the bottom is flawless- it even has the warranty card in the case. Anywho, they want 99.99, I can get it for 80 or so probably... Only thing it doesn't have that you all have talked about is the plunge base.

What do you think? Should i still consider the Hitachi? Is this a no-brainer?

Also, I've been hearing that Milwaukee has been dropping in quality after going foreign... is that true? is that true of this router? or is that silly?

Thanks!
jeff

Leo G

The plunge on the router has two specific functions, one is to obviously plunge in and out of the work pc. The other is to setup a zero reference quickly and accurately. I have the Bosch 1613 and it has the height adjustment wheel which I use a lot. I find it much easier than twisting the whole body. Plus after you set the bit to zero you can insert a know thickness (hinge plate, thickness reference bar) in between the stop and the adjustable stop bar and precisely set the plunge depth in seconds.

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knotscott

Hi Jeff - I have not heard any rumors about quality dropping but that doesn't mean it's not happening....MW enjoys an excellent reputation (especially with routers) that I'd think they'd want to preserve. The 5616 for < $100 is a steal IMO. The Hitachi is lighter and possibly more maneuverable but isn't built to quite the same level the MW is....still plenty stout though. Both good choices IMHO.

YMMV, but I rarely use my plunge base. You might be able to buy one for the MW anyway...you could try posting a want ad in the free classifieds or check Ebay periodically for a deal.

musky_xl

80 bucks? I would jump on it. Its not much money, especially with your first router. This will get you going for sure and the more you use it, the more you will do with it. Its the one tool that you cant have enough of (and clamps).

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