Sleeper

I don’t know what it is exactly, but I dread it every time I have to use a router. It’s such a chore for me to do anything with a router. Today I wanted to cut 2 simple dados and it took me almost a half hour just to set the depth. The adjustment ring was stuck so I managed to get it as far as could then just moved the bit the rest of the way. I also always have to make a jig or something to cut a straight line and the jig always seems to be a onetime use thing. The only reason I didn’t use my RAS was because the piece I was cutting was fastened down and I didn’t want to align it again after taking it apart.
I have three routers, 2 Craftsman, a ¼”1970’s model & a newer 1/2“ model. I also have a cheap Black & Decker with a broken base and I got to say it’s probably the easiest to use. If it wasn’t for the small size and broken base, I would only use it. I do use it every chance I get.
Is there something I can use to lubricate those plastic threads on my ½” Craftsman? I don’t want to use WD40 because I’m afraid it will get on the wood. And is there a universal router jig I can make or buy?

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

rrbrown

Hey sleeper I use the tablesaw with a stack dado to cut dado's. I'm trying to work on nice router tables but with 3 kids there's always something.

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Semper Fi
Richard

Once A Marine Always A Marine.

Some choose to study history, but Marines choose to create history.

Leo G

Sounds like a new model router would solve the issue. I have a Bosch plunge router and setting the depth is easy. Put the bit in, push the router down until it hits the table which is now your zero point and then use the stop to set any depth you want. Push the router down to the depth and lock. Route away. Sometimes the tool can get in the way of the project. Sometimes it is time to get rid of that tool.

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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
TGIF just means two more working days until Monday http://lrgwood.com

Sleeper

Oh, I know about having 3 kids. Now the kids are grown up and I have a 2 year old grandson following me around.
I’ve been trying figure out something for a router table and I looked at several differant plans. I have a small Craftsman table that never really worked for me and now I’m trying to learn how to sell it on eBay. Someone in this forum has a router table on their table saw, but they mentioned that they hated it, so I’ve been holding off on doing that.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Sleeper

I bought the Craftsman during some big sale and got an extra discount for have the Craftsman card. It looked good at the time, but I have not been very happy with it. I learned about the plunge routers right after I bought it.
I think you are right, maybe I need a new router.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Leo G

Always a good time to buy a new tool

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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
TGIF just means two more working days until Monday http://lrgwood.com

Sleeper

You should tell that to my wife.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Leo G

Here's a secret. By the time the wife finds out that you want a new tool, you should already have it. May put you in the dog house for a while, but at least you have the tool to make the dog house a nice place to be.

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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
TGIF just means two more working days until Monday http://lrgwood.com

Clouseau

I have at least 5 or 6 routers. Some date back to the early 1960's. There are few keys to help the time and aggrivation factors:
1. keep dedicated wrenches with the routers or in your bit box
2. keep the base waxed with Johnson's Wax or Minwax
3. clear bases are easier to see around
4. feed the correct direction
5. use good clean and sharp bits
6. most of the time 1/2 shank bits will outperform 1/4 shank bits
7. use clamps, straight edges and jigs to hold work and guide router
8. make sure base is centered and screws are below surface
9. use a stick ruler or depth guage, not a tape measure
10. take roughing cuts and finishing cuts
11. have fun....it is one of the most useful and versitile tools in the shop

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St. Louis, MO

GeorgeC

I do not think it has any thing to do with the router.

You state that you have to make a "jig" just to cut a straight line. Of course you do. Nobody can route a straight line without some type of guide.

Adjustment rings or whatever are normally a problem with preventive maintenance. Usually not a fault of the machine. Keep it cleaned and oiled.

Practise with the router so that you are comfortable using it. Setting the depth of cut on any router is not easy unless you have practised doing so in either practise time or in use time.

I really believe that you have psyched yourself out on using a router.

G

Gene Howe

My router table is attached to my table saw table and I love it. If I were into production (I'm a hobby woodworker) I'd want separate units....and more shop space!

johnv51

I have 4 routers. Two old Sears that I no longer use and 2 Porter Cable routers. I have the 3 1/2 hp PC mounted on the router table (I built Norm's design) and the other PC is a 690 with bot a fixed and a plunge bas in a carry case. They are great ot use once you discover a few tricks. Get the brass set up block kit from Rockler. It makes setting bit depth a breeze. I made an adjustable dadoe jig that is quick and easy to set up and cuts the dadoe exactly the width I need.

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Spilling wine on oak does not make it purpleheart!

Sleeper

I guess I didn’t word that right. It’s time consuming to make a jig each time, but I just downloaded plans for an adjustable jig from woodsmith so I will not have to do that anymore.

As far as the adjustment ring goes, I know if I hit it with some WD40, that it will loosen up. I was told not to do that because sawdust will stick to the oil and the oil can soak into the piece I’m working on. I once used wax on some drawer guides, and the wax hardened causing the drawers to stick, so I don’t want to use wax. If you could recommend something, that would be great. I do try to keep it clean and I keep it in a covered plastic box that cat litter comes in.

I’m seriously thinking about buying another combo router and removing the base of the one I got and permanently mounting it into a router table with a separate depth adjustment.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Sleeper

He Gene! When my son went to Okinawa, he left his 2 kids here with us and it was a real sad time when they left. So now I’m really enjoying having this one around. I don’t know for how long, but I like coming home from work and hearing him laughing.
I just upgraded my table saw and have a 12”x27” space on the end that I don’t know what to do with. I’m still thinking about a router table because I don’t have a lot of room for another table.
And Johnv51, that’s a nice table. I just wish I had more room.
I have that brass set up kit in my shopping cart, just trying to figure out what else I need.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Sleeper

Well, I broke down and sprayed all the threads with WD40 and it is a little easier, but I think there is something wrong with the lock. The lever only moves 90 deg from lock to unlock and I don’t know if that’s what it’s supposed to do, but its way too hard.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

SailorCharon

Couldn't you take a piece of wood and clamp it parallel to the cut you want to make and then just snug the router up to the plywood as you go? That would let you route straight lines at least (although you might need to get a few different pieces of wood for different lengths).

Clouseau

WD40 leaves an oily residue. Try LPS-1 on the ring and other mechanisms. It leaves a dry residue. You could also use silicone, especially the food grade, but not on the base platel. Minwax or Johnson's paste is the best for the base plates. If your base plates are scarred you might try rubbing them on some 1000 grit wet-dry paper on a flat surface, then wax.

PS: I love your high tech storage box. I use tuperware for saw blades, dado blades, bandsaw blades and other stuff.

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St. Louis, MO

dbhost

Amazon.com: Milescraft 1203 TurnLock Router...
Circle cutting / edge guide. I own one and it works fine. HOWEVER I had to replace the knobs with 1/4" - 20TPI star knobs from Rockler. The OE plastic ones are plain and simple trash...

For measuring your router depth, use a conbination square.
Amazon.com: Johnson Level & Tool 400EM...
As far as lubricants go, try LPS Dry Moly Lube. Pretty sure just about any local Ace Hardware should have that...

Not a huge fan of B&D routers, I own 3 routers, one of which is a B&D Firestorm plunge router. I have learned to hate that router... Pieces are simply falling off of it.

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-- Trying to follow the example of the master...

Sleeper

Sailor, I was actually trying put two ¾” dados across an 18” wide board with a 1/2 “ bit and I needed to make two passes so I clamped two boards on the piece with the router between. I had a ¾” bit but I dropped it trying to adjust the depth and the carbide cutter broke off.

Yeah, those kitty litter containers come in real handy. The only problem is that they get mixed up with the rest of the stuff I got in litter containers and I can’t find anything.

I already got a combination square, in fact I have several thanks. But that Milescraft 1203 is pretty cool, I’m going to get one of those.
My black & Decker was a free thing that someone gave me. I can’t say much except that it is easy and small enough to get into tight corners. It came in handy last Christmas on my train display when I needed to remove some wood under my already decorated tree. It fit perfectly when even my sawzaw would not fit.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

drbob1

I have had the same problem with a cheaper Craftsman router. I now have a better Craftsman and don't have the problem - yet. I also use Porter Cable which will never have that problem because of its design. I recently included a review of routers on my blog that may help you decide which router is best for your needs. Here is the link: http://www.woodworkingtipsandtools.c...outer-reviews/