sprior

A year ago I bought a reconditioned Porter Cable 7529 (type 2) and have been happy with it, but it just died on me. I opened it up and found that one of the capacitors (one that's in a small can and looks almost like a transistor) popped off the speed controller board. It doesn't actually look damaged, but is surface mount so I'm not sure I'd be able to solder it back on.

It looks like the speed controller part is discontinued on the Porter Cable site, but appeared to cost $100 even if they still had it - not sure that would be a good purchase.

Anyone have any good suggestions for a possible repair? I've got the edge guide and extra dust collector accessories for this router so I'm in the hole for about $100 of accessories on top of buying a new router if they don't fit. What's the best Porter Cable router to buy for general purpose these days?

I'm really bummed because I just started a staycation and was looking forward to some woodworking projects, one being getting practice with the PC 2212 Dovetail jig I bought this last weekend and this is my only 1/2" router!

Julian the woodnut

I assume it had to be soldered in place so it should be able to be resoldered . I'd take it apart and make sure, then if the capacitor is shot, just take it to radio shack and find a replacement one and solder it in.

sprior

I'll try soldering it tomorrow (probably nothing to lose by trying) - it's going to be VERY tricky because the leads are actually under the can in a surface mount fashion. I measured it as 20 uf with my multimeter, but don't know what it's value is supposed to be. I suspect it isn't faulty because before it popped off the board the router worked fine. Looks like it wasn't properly soldered on in the first place - no residual solder on the contact surface, just copper.

mickit

I've never tried fixing one of the boards, in the recon shop we just replaced the whole board. If it currently shows as unavailable on service net it's a sure bet there are no more being made, though there may be one or more still in the system. If there is a Dewalt SC near you, get them to run an inter-station inquiry, . You may get a good deal on a discontinued part for a discontinued model. And as you say, nothing lost by trying to re-solder it, though my eyes, nor hands would be up to it. If no go...try to find an 8529(recon, new or used) almost all of your accessories will fit, as it is basically a up graded 7529.

BHOFM

Can you do a picture. I have repaired some of these
boards. You need a real small iron. radio shack has
them and you need a feel for the soldier.

A picture would be a big plus and I may be able to
talk you through it.

I sure wish you were close by.

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sprior

Here are 3 pics, one with a circle where I believe the cap fell off, the second shows the leads on the cap, and the third shows the cap placed where I think it should be in the hopefully correct orientation.

Attached Images

   

BHOFM

This is the worst case that you can have.

I think this is what you need. I have used it several
times fixing the circuit board on hammer drills.
It works good, but ain't cheap.

http://cableorganizer.com/mg-chemica...LAID=261923804

http://www.pemro.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=LOC-1119

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sprior

BHOFM - that might be a good idea. Any idea what kinds of local stores might carry that conductive epoxy? Is this something to find at Home Depot, a local electrical supply place, Granger, or something else? I'd rather get this over with and not to mail order.

BHOFM

I would check with tool repair shops and anyone the
repairs TV satellite dishes.

You might call these people? They are in RI.

http://www.alfaadhesives.com/alfa-contact.html

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woodnthings

Can you "tin" the connections on the cap , then heat the connections from the back side of the board or tin both then heat?

Finally can you take the unit to an electronics repair facility as was suggeted maybe, satellite repair, RC airplane hobby shop, etc and have them make the repair?

bill

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If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

sprior

Today I decided that my plans for my staycation (today was the first day) was supposed to be about practicing woodworking, not screwing around trying to repair surface mount, so I went out and bought a Porter Cable 893PK and made some sawdust. I'll still see what I can do with the 7529 when I get around to it. A friend suggested the possibility of bypassing the speed control in the worst case and ending up with a single speed router with no soft start - I might very well go that route if my attempt at soldering fails.

I was also thinking about using some thicker copper wire cut into two short pieces with 90 degree ends. Then I'd solder those wires to the capacitor and then as long as I can solder the other end to the PC board before the other end melts it could provide the clearance I need to do the soldering. I think there's extra space in the case so the extra height wouldn't be a problem.

Steve

lucas.j.dunton

you should be able to get the loctite @ a local electric supply house

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“Freedom is something that dies unless it's used” -Hunter S Thompson

rrich

Steve,
It sure looks like a cold solder joint to me. Perhaps even a flux joint.

I don't know how much room is available but a capacitor of the appropriate value and voltage rating could be soldered in place.

A final thought, just bypass the speed control and allow the router to run at full speed. ????

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Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.

sprior

rrich, interesting thought. Does anyone recognize the markings on that component to determine the appropriate value? Bypassing the speed control has been raised as an option, but for now I'm still keeping that as a last resort.

Steve

sprior

I managed to get it working this morning! I cut two pieces of copper wire with a right angle bend at both ends. First I soldered them to the capacitor and then shaped them to be parallel and the exact same length, then managed to solder them to the circuit board, and now the router works again! Oh gosh darn, I already bought a new router so I'm stuck with two...

I already had the case back on before I thought to take a picture, looks hokey, but for now it works.

rrich

Normally I would offer to take the new router off your hands except that I already have too many routers. What is really sick, I was sitting here trying to remember how many and I can't remember if it is 6 or 7. I only purchased 3 of them INTENTIONALLY.

__________________
Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.

sprior

That's OK rrich, I'm already thinking about ordering an extra base for the 893 to keep mounted in my router table - the above the table adjusting seems like it'll be nice. Actually this is my 4th router, but I don't count the other two. One's a single speed old Stanley 1/4" bit router which I do kinda like, but the other is a Sears 1/4" collet piece of junk which I'll probably Freecycle along with it's router table and dovetail jig when I'm more comfortable using my new PC 4212 dovetail jig.

It's amazing how useless my shop felt when I didn't have a working 1/2" collet router.

Steve

knotscott

If you do end up bypassing the speed controller, you might want to consider just adding an outboard speed controller so you can still put it to use in your table with the big bits. HF has a cheap one that works, and there are others in the $30 range.

BHOFM

You might need to use some silicone to stabilize the
part. It may vibrate with out it and work loose again.

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