planer or jointer - Woodworking Talk

ktm250rider · 11-03-2009, 01:55 PM

Planning on buidling some cabinets for our masterbath closet and possibly for storage in the garage. Which would be more usefull, a planer or jointer for building the face frames? Will a planer give you a similar edge as a jointer?

ACP · 11-03-2009, 02:01 PM

The planer won't do anything for the edge unless you bundle a bunch of pieces together on edge and send them through. A planer is for thicknessing wood, usually on its face sides. The jointer can straighten, as in take out bows, cups, crooks, etc. from wood. Your question begs another question, will you be using rough lumber for these cabinets or are you gonna buy it surfaced. If it is surfaced get the planer. There are a lot of posts on here regarding straightening wood without a jointer, but nothing is easier for face/edge jointing. I haven't had mine too long, but I used it extensively on my recent project and what a wonderful tool. If you have never used these before make sure you read up on them. There are certain techniques to use to have a better end product and be safer.

woodnthings · 11-03-2009, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACP

The planer won't do anything for the edge unless you bundle a bunch of pieces together on edge and send them through. A planer is for thicknessing wood, usually on its face sides. The jointer can straighten, as in take out bows, cups, crooks, etc. from wood. Your question begs another question, will you be using rough lumber for these cabinets or are you gonna buy it surfaced. If it is surfaced get the planer. There are a lot of posts on here regarding straightening wood without a jointer, but nothing is easier for face/edge jointing. I haven't had mine too long, but I used it extensively on my recent project and what a wonderful tool. If you have never used these before make sure you read up on them. There are certain techniques to use to have a better end product and be safer.

Why would he get a planer if the boards are already surfaced/planed ? I think you meant jointer?

ACP · 11-03-2009, 05:35 PM

To plane it to thickness. If they are already surfaced then he shouldn't have to worry about crooked wood. He could get it surfaced two sides and make a million jigs to edge joint it. But if he wants different thicknesses he's gonna need the planer. I think we are thinking the same thing here Bill but maybe my English not so good.

woodnthings · 11-03-2009, 07:50 PM

The proper term is "thickness planer" cause that's what it does, planes to constant thickness.
Wood warp defintions: Wood "warping" definitions
Anyone starting out who wants to work with "rough sawn" lumber with all different types of warps, twists, bows, cups etc will need a jointer....or a planer with a jointing "sled". The planer with the sled can work with wider stock than a typical jointer whose bed width is 6 or 6 1/2 ". The table saw can very successfully be used to straight boards with bow or curve, but not twist or cup. There are straighten jigs of all sorts but I've found a simple straight rectangular tube will work fine see this thread:
Gotta bowed board, no jointer?
As the boards get longer edge jointing require very precise height supports or a gorilla to maintain the board control and even pressure across the tables. Flattening is different, requires less precision, but still good support on long pieces, say 6 ft or more.
If you are buying "surfaced" boards the mill will ask what thickness and based on your reply and that they are all milled at the same time, that's what you will get. So unless you changing from that thickness to a different one you won't "need" a planer. Great to have but not necessary.
So there is really not an easy answer to this proverbial question. Except...It all depends....
Good thread on jointers:
Help with joiner
In my own experince I got a jointer first, then a planer. I'm now up to 3 jointers and 4 planers, XXX tables saws and xxx radial arm saws...Widest jointer 13 1/2" and widest planer 20". I have had a lot of "free" wood rough sawn and stickered to air dry. Some has warped, but not that much, and a few has end grain splits. All in all a good deal. Free stuff is free stuff, no matter the cost.

I've got to stop gettin' ready and make stuff! YUP. bill

ktm250rider · 11-03-2009, 09:45 PM

Ill be buying "surfaced" wood. All the 1x material Ive used on my door trim has not been true across the entire length. Im adding flutes to the boards using a sled attached to my router. Most boards need to be touched up with my hand planer since the sled will bind in some areas and slide free in others. I figure if this was happening, theres no way Id get tight joints on two adjacent cabinets. I didnt think it would work, but I was hoping a planer would get me by. Guess Ill start looking for a used jointer.

woodnthings · 11-03-2009, 10:10 PM

You need a planer! IE it is not a constant thickness? I have a Ryobi portable planer from HD for $200. to start at entry level prices. It planes smooth and true. A jointer will not help with thicknessing.

bill

GeorgeC · 11-04-2009, 07:31 AM

Whether or not you "need" a thickness planner depends upon the type of wood that you purchase.

Since I have always purchased wood that has been surfaced on two sides I have not had a requirement for a thickness planner.

I have had a jointer for 25 years. I have found it invaluable in my wood working. I have had a thickness planner for only 2 years. Now that I have it I can find projects where it comes in handy.

George