toolman Steve

Johnny cheek your private message . my daughter lives in LA
Steve

Sleeper

I bought a longer belt and I now have more clearance on the motor mount, but I’m not sure yet if I like it. There is a lot more torque and stress on those aluminum parts. It had a 41” belt and I put on a 42” belt. I’m glad I didn’t buy anything bigger, because there just is no more adjustment.
I also cut off the corner of the mount and I’m really happy with that. I rounded the corner and filed the edges smooth. It just needs a little paint to look like it was manufactured like that. I’m happy to say that because of cut location nothing was weakened on the mount.
Well, I got the pulley off, cleaned it up real good and pushed it back on all the way. It turns out that the pulley has to be as close to the blade as possible or the pully hits the table in the high position and the belt hits the saw cabinet at 22 deg. in the low position.
I now remember last Christmas cutting a 22-½° angle on a ½” piece of oak and the belt was rubbing, so I adjusted the mount without knowing about the pulley. If adjusting the motor mount for the belt problem and the pulleys out, the motor mount ends up too close to the rear rail in the 45° position.
So now I finally have everything adjusted correctly and I can now easily move the blade through all the positions without anything hitting. I don’t have to cut or notch the rail. I do have to build a new out feed table because of the motor height and that’s going to be easy, I just can’t use anything thicker that 1/8” above the motor location at 45 deg.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

knotscott

JohnnyB - Gotta give you credit for hanging in there! Well done...glad you saw it through.

Sleeper

Thank you very much, I must admit I was getting a little frustrated and was thinking about another saw. If wasn’t the fact that I just spent a little over $200 for the fence and some other stuff, I might have done just that. I do want to point out that it wasn’t the saw. It was my inability to foresee these problems before I got into it so deep and I’m the cause of most of the problems I encountered.
Anyway, I just got done putting on a new Diablo 24T Kerf blade and ripped all the pieces needed to finish my out feed table. I still need to assemble it, but I just want to say that I can not believe the difference in that new blade. It’s like I just doubled the HP and what a smooth cut it is. I should have done this a long time ago.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

woodnthings

A Diablo thin kerf 40 tooth and you're all set. And if I'm not mistaken you have the old style Craftsman throat plate. Here's my ideas for making them using the existing steel plate with some wood additions and hot glue:
Make a zero clearance throat plate insert
Remember. if you're not making dust, you're gathering it! bill

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If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

toolman Steve

I'm glad it's working for you now . persistence paid off.

Steve

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Steve M.

Sleeper

Oh yes I do need one of those. Thanks

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Sleeper

Thanks Steve for all your help.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Clouseau

I would notch the angle iron. I would also put a spacer between the table and the angle to help cure your saw dust problem. Most of the saw dust would probably fall down the slot if it were about 3/8 to 1/2". Your little skid pad needs to be wider than the table slots to work.

The most reasonable table extension is another scrapped table. Most tables are 27" deep. I use a Unifence on my Cman table saw. The "foot" on the Unisaw would not play well with the grate-type or recessed-type extensions. All you need for the old top is the throat plate or make a wooden insert to cover the throat. I would make one with bevelled edges that is as wide as will fit under your fence. You get a 20" wide extension with two more slots all for about $10 or $15. I just scrapped out one of the Cman table saws that used the cable drive and sold each extension and the top for $15 each. With a top and 10" extension, I get a 36" cut right of the blade.

BTW, when bolting up the extensions, aluminum soda cans and thicker aluminum foil make excellent shim stock if they do not have perfectly machined 90º edges.

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St. Louis, MO

Sleeper

[quote=Clouseau;85559]The most reasonable table extension is another scrapped table. Most tables are 27" deep. I use a Unifence on my Cman table saw. The "foot" on the Unisaw would not play well with the grate-type or recessed-type extensions. All you need for the old top is the throat plate or make a wooden insert to cover the throat. I would make one with bevelled edges that is as wide as will fit under your fence. You get a 20" wide extension with two more slots all for about $10 or $15. I just scrapped out one of the Cman table saws that used the cable drive and sold each extension and the top for $15 each. With a top and 10" extension, I get a 36" cut right of the blade.
quote]

I saw one on eBay, but I think it might add too much weight to one side. I’m trying to avoid more legs, because right now I can spin my table around in a small 4 ft dia. Area. This is a great asset when you have a small shop. I think I mentioned this earlier, but have to push everything into the corner when not using it. The side table/fence rail are higher than most of my stuff and clears everything around it.
I did notice that the far end of the rail dropped ½” and I may have to add a brace on the short side to keep it from bending higher. It is evident in the base by the sheet metal expanding at the bolt on the light end of the table. I don’t think I have a problem of it tipping over, because I have moved it all over the place even outside with tools and wood setting on the far side. Now if someone were to jump on that side for some reason, it is going down. I think its ok under normal use.
I’m still working on the out feed table and I figured out a way to incorporate a dust collection under the table that completely encloses the motor while leaving a ¾” gap between the table top and the rail. There should be enough vacuum to suck out any dust off of the rail. I tried a wide shop vacuum attachment that’s about ¾”x 8” to check it out and there is more than enough suction, even from my shop vacuum. I’m thinking of cutting a radius slot in of some ½” stiff foam that I found to try and close up the huge hole in front for the height adjust crank.

I work 10 hour days and I’m usually too tired to do any major stuff during the week. This weekend is already booked so it might not be until 4th of July weekend to complete the dust collection. I’ll take photos when I’m done.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

woodnthings

You can brace back to the legs or stand that you have with angle braces. My saw has the "retired table" on the left side and it's cool to have an extra 2 miter slots on that side for various cross cuts. I also have a second "retired" table in between the 2 saws. Ok, that's a little much but I am not moving the saw around like sleeper has too, so it works well for me. And BTW I would look into using the RAS as a shaper and see how many folks have had success with that arrangement safety wise. My preference would be to use the TS as the molding machine for the number of times you would use it and it would be easier to make it safer in my opinion. bill


A picture is worth a few paragraphs! bill

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If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Sleeper

Hey Bill, I was just watching Charles Neil’s ‘glue line ripping’ on YouTube and I just realized that since I removed the blade guard mount, I don’t have a splitter anymore. Do you use a splitter?

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

woodnthings

See my post on kickback which explains why.
For a lot of operations a splitter is not "necessary" for structured or man made wood products like plywood and MDF.
Hardwoods, softwoods and other natural woods require a splitter since the internal stresses are relieved when the saw cuts can cause the wood to pinch the back of the blade and cause a KICKBACK! Yes, I've had a piece of plywood spin back because of "operator error" but not because of pinching the back of the blade. bill

Kickback post:
Kickback, lessons learned
Most of you already know that a structured wood like plywood or MDF or other manufactured sheet goods "generally speaking" will not close up behind the blade, the cause of most kickbacks, because they are stable. Other "natural woods, like pine and oaks MAY close up the kerf behind the blade and pinch and kick back. Therefore, use a splitter or riving knife which ever works or fits when ripping lumber off trees and when sawing sheet goods it's not "necessary". Don't get me wrong I've had plywood kick back from operator error, but not from the above condition. I was looking at my "welders leather apron" the other day and thought what a great shop apron for table saw duty, especially ripping. It would provide more protection than cotton or poly, IF a kickback should occur. Ballistic nylon would be best, but the best policy is never stand directly behind a horse or a table saw when either is running!
I have NO spiltter on by sheet goods saw, a Craftsman 12" motorized, but I DO have a splitter on my 12", 5 HP Powermatic used for ripping exclusively. My first cut on that saw when it was new OOTB, was ripping a scrap of pine from a crate. (no splitter, right, you know how to rip. right?) The wood EXPLODED after it pinched the back side of the blade and shot all the way across the shop! No blood no tears, just a whole lot more RESPECT! I also use a zero clearance throat plate at all times. It helps resist the temptation to go down into the throat plate after a thin sliver gets stuck, while the blade is still spinning. I had a kickback a few days ago, and it actually loosened the blade off the arbor, so I jambed a scrap into in after I had turned the saw off.. WOW! That was scary. Kickback occured when ripping a narrow piece against the fence wasn't pushed completely thru and pushed down as it exited the blade...overarm dust collector in the way! No Blood, no tears, just a lesson learned. Move the collector out of the way, and a pressure hold down roller behind the blade might have helped. That's why I'm am passing on this rather wordy response. Bad advice is plentiful, Good advice...priceless. Off for now, Bill

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If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Sleeper

Thanks, that was very interesting.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"