Sleeper

As some of you know I mounted a new Jet Fence system on my Craftsman table saw and I added a an out feed table extension.
Well, I found out today that I still have problems with my fence upgrade. I was adjusting the blade angle for a angled rip cut and it was a little tight. I don’t rip many angles and it’s been about a year since I changed from 90 deg.
Anyway I decided to run it all the way to 45 deg so I can clean and lube it. That’s when discovered I had a problem. At about 39deg the mount for the blade guard was hitting the new rail. I didn’t realize it until the side of my saw started to bend outward. I removed the guard mount, but then motor mount hit the rail. I tried adjusting the motor mount out without much luck.
I can cut off the corner of the mount or maybe get a longer belt, but then the motor hits my out feed table extension. Will it never end? It’s starting to sound like the never ending story. Now I’m going to have to notch out some clearance space under the extension table for the motor.
The other thing I noticed is that I can’t raze the blade all the way up in the 90 deg position without the blade pulley hitting the cast iron table. I tried to move the pulley in but it will not budge. I think I knew that before, but forgot about it because I started to make a note and found I already had one. So much for notes.
I got tired of fooling with it for now and I’ve still got to decide if I’m going to cut the motor mount or not.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

woodnthings

Doesn't it just support the side extensions...that's all? It doesn't have anything to do with the fence itself, right?
It also looks like you could raise it up and notch out for the mitergauge slots and gain about 3/8" or so, with no adverse effects.
Just slot the bolt holes you have now with a rattail file...it'll take a while or flip the angle end for end and use the opposite face and drill new holes.That may solve some of the clearance issues, but maybe not all? You've really been around and around on this project eh?
On my Craftsman twin tablesaws I used a Delta Unifence, front rail only, but this is totally after the fact for you, sorry. Possibly you could use a solid bar, thicker but less tall like 1/2" x 1" rather than notching and cutting stuff. I donno?
As far as the pully hitting the table, that's not part of the new fence issue, right? Can you just slide the pulley over and get more clearance?
Can you move the motor rearward and use a longer belt for more clearance for the mount? bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Sleeper

I need the rear rail for a number things. First I’m depending on it to help support the side table extensions. Second I’m using it to support the rear outfeed table.
The last thing is that I’m supporting the rear of the fence because the slide gets caught in the the slots and the holes of my web extension table, so I mounted a little wheel to help it slide. I'm looking for a solid cast iron extension, but it still gets caught in the slots.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

knotscott

Johnny - What would happen if you inverted the rear rail, shortened the rear foot, then put a rabbet on the outfeed table if necessary where it meets the rail so that it rests on top of the rail and is flush with the table? It does seem a notch cut out of the rail might be easier.

Sleeper

I’ve thought of notching the rail, but it’s so strong that I don’t want to weaken it. Actually when I first built the out feed table (I have it off right now to fix this problem) I realized that saw dust collects on the rail and would probably cause trouble for the wheel. I had a thought at that time of maybe closing up the gap and mounting the wheel on the end of the fence to ride on the outfeed table.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Sleeper

I just came in from the garage after playing with it and I hate to admit it, but I think both of you are right. I just hate to do it because I have to drill more holes. Flipping it over or inverting it is really the best way to go. It looks like and I’m hoping it is so, but I think the angle iron will align with the bottom of the miter slot. I still will not be able to use the blade guard, but I never used it anyway. I wish I would have seen this coming before I installed it, but I think it will look better.

I’m glad I this happened today, because I bought some sheet metal yesterday to totally enclose the motor for dust collection and now I can see that I need to rethink this. I’m going to have to incorporate the outfeed table into the dust collection plan. I’m still going to have to get a longer belt for the dust collection enclosure.

And Bill, the pulley thing isn’t a real problem because I don’t need to raise up the blade that high anyway. I just threw it in because I couldn’t move the pulley even with a pry bar and I’m now wondering if there isn’t a spacer in there.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

The woodsman

I had about the same problem on an old craftsman about 15 yrs ago an I cut the part of the motor mount off an never had any problems.as for the out feed,couldn't you make it a seperate thing an just roll it up to the saw when you needed it.I made one out of a tool cabinet with locking casters on it an it worked pretty good for me.Hope this helps.

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God Bless all
Ken Ward

Sleeper

Well I took the whole thing apart and flipped it over and it’s not going to work because of the miter slots. I don't want to notch the angle iron.
I was able to determine that a longer belt will help and I think I’m going to go ahead and cut the corner off.

Originally, I was going to remove the angled sheet metal legs and build a cabinet as long as it is wide with the fence, but I installed the fence beforehand just to get it operational to build a cabinet. Then I discovered that it was a lot easier to move around with the small foot print with the added bonus of storing other items on wheels under the wings like my planer and miter saw. The motor hangs out the back a little over 12 inches, so I decided to enclose the motor with a short 18” outfeed table strong enough to hinge a fold down extension off of that while still maintaining the small foot print. I’m planning on storing it in front of the garage door so if I was going to rip something over 30”, I could open the door and swing up the fold down extension.
I downloaded a plan for a table that pops up to roll over the TS when not in use, but that means that I have to open the garage door every time I wanted to use it.
So anyway, thanks for responding everybody, I think I know what I got do now. I still have to figure out the details for the dust collection, but at least now I know what I’m dealing with.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

woodnthings

My $3600 12" Powermatic 68 has notches for the miter slots front and rear, so that's not a real issue. To raise the angle up 1/4" or 3/8".... if that's what's required shouldn't hurt a thing. Yes, it's a litte work with a grinder and a file, but on my Craftsman 21224 Hybrid, I had to do that to get the folding outfeed table accessory to sit flush. And that's with a Biesemeyer fence.
As far as the pulley goes, I had a saw just like yours, (retired it after 50 yrs) and the pulley is just "stuck" in place put some Kroil, Break Free, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc on it and let it set awhile, it will break free with a tap or a quick pull on the breaker bar. You never know when you will need full blade height and then you won't have it.
I guess that cutting the motor mount is probably fine if that's your choice, and I can see why you don't want to change all the work you have done so far. The Biesemeyer fences have a nylon skid pad that sits on the rear end of the fence across the back of the table surfaces. A similiar pad would work in your case in lieu of the wheel, it would just have to ride on the 1/2" wide grid at the rear. You mentioned a solid cast iron extension, and of course that would be better.
Just some more ideas on the subject for you. bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

toolman Steve

I have a craftsman saw also .I extended the table 48 " My L brackets the opposite of yours , also your motor mount seams to be upside down .my belt floats on the top my blade side pulley is a (1) inch my slide bars are almost all the way out. I have no trouble even past 45 Ds and it dose not rub.
AS far as the vac. I made a funnal shaped box under the saw base and mounted the hose to it. I used a peace of canvase mounted around the belt.

Steve

Sleeper

Thanks Bill, I do have a nylon skid pad. I didn’t know what to call it, so I’ve been calling it “the slide”, but I like “nylon skid pad” better. It’s the nylon skid pad that hangs up on everything and I tried to pry it off to move it to the ½” edge as you where talking about. It’s really stuck on there and I didn’t want to destroy it.
I put the wheel on because I had the parts laying around. It was quick and easy, Another skid pad mounted on the edge would probably be the way to go as long as it don’t hang up on the miter grove like this one does. I searched all over HomeDepot and Lowes looking for something to use as a pad. I found plastic cutting board at Walmart that looks the same stuff as the pad, but not right thickness. I can cut strip off to the correct thickness, but then it might be to narrow.
I don’t remember where I saw it, but someone else was complaining that their fence was defective because the skid pad kept falling off maybe I need to find that thread to see what that guy did.
I tried to take a photo, but both the fence and the pad are white and don’t show up in the photo.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

Sleeper

Hi Steve,
I was thinking the same think about the motor mount, but after looking at for a while I decided that is on correct because of the adjustment bolt.
I’m not following you on the “blade side pulley thing”

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

toolman Steve

Johnny The pulley that attaches to the blade .

I went out and measured my motor mount is [5"]from the back of my frame . my adjusting bolt is on the top next to the belt , the pivot bolt is on the bottom.

Steve

Sleeper

Here is a photo from the back looking down at 90 deq.
The photo was taken right after I realized I had a problem and shows the motor pushed out of alignment when it hit the rail at 45 deg. I didn't notice the motor untill I moved it back to 90, but I fixed that already.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

toolman Steve

It seams you have a little play that you can use . Try sliding out the motor on the shafts mine is just about all the way out. mine sits about in the middle of the adjustment.you may need to grt a longer belt.
Also my back quide is opposite of yours . I drilled my own bolt holes and set it just bellow the slide slots.

woodnthings

Is attached with an adhesive or you could use double sided carpet tape if you want to "relocate" it. You just need to bevel the edges a little so it won't hang up on the joints or mitergauge slots if that's an issue. You don't want it very tick as thin stock will find it's way under possibly. Nothing works the way it was intended it seems. I looked it up on Sears Parts Direct and a cast iron side extension went for around $140 or so, a little steep for me. They are all the same I think, 27" x 10" or maybe 12" wide. I would not hesitate to relocate it and have it ride on the grid myself. It's just carrying the weight of the rear end of the fence. bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Sleeper

I know what you’re talking about Steve and I do need a longer belt to move out some more.
I just bought one eBay for 40 some dollars, but they are hard to come by unless you pay the piper (in this case Sears). I was thinking the other day, how many of these are setting in some scrap yard collecting rust. Every since I started looking eBay, I’m amazed at all the stuff you can find that are junk to others and mighty handy if not a necessity to others.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"

toolman Steve

Johnny also try to move the pulleys closer to the motor and blade you will get less vibration and it may help clear the inside frame.

toolman Steve

Johnny

I get my belts at auto parts store just measure outside of pulleys and bring old one with you for thickness. You just heve to get close to size because you can adjust it. I don't pay more than $10.

Steve

Sleeper

I’m going to do that as soon as get the top pulley moved in closer. There is not a lot of room or I would use a puller. I’m afraid of breaking the pulley using a pry bar. I haven’t tried taking the pulley off only tried pushing farther in. Maybe I need to try and take it off 1st then put it back on. That’s what I had to do with the one on the motor.
It’s a little early yet, but when the stores open I’m going to buy a belt. My post says 10:30 but its realy on 8:30.

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JohnnyB
"I do what I do well, but I still like to dabble in what I don’t do well"