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Looking to buy a new router.

6K views 48 replies 15 participants last post by  Rebelwork 
#1 ·
If you were buying a new router, what would you choose and why?

Want to start my learning process in cabinet making. What should I look for in a router?
 
#2 ·
Buy a kit - which includes a fixed base and a plunge base. Use the fixed base in a router table and the plunge for handheld operations.

I am retired, but do a lot of woodworking. I have two Bosch 1617EVS kits, a DeWalt compact, a Triton 3 1/4hp table mounted router and an old Craftsman 1hp with a flush trim bit installed.
 

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#3 ·
Most folks who are remotely serious woodworkers like to have at least two....one for hand use, and one for a router table, largely because the two applications have different requirements from a router.

For table use, ample power and variable spped to slow down larger bits are nearly must haves. Since weight isn't much of a factor, more power never hurts, especially for the big bits. Above table adjustments are handy too.

For hand use, light and comfortable are more important than brute power.

The ability to use 1/2" or 1/4" shank bits is a big plus. Buy decent quality 1/2" shank bits whenever feasible.

I've owned Freud, Craftsman, Hitachi, Milwaukee, Bosch, and Porter Cable routers. It's subjective and personal, but of those, I prefer the Milwaukees most...the larger 5626 is a beast, has variable speed and above table height adjustment. The smaller 5615 is available in kit or fixed base....I really like the BodyGrip handle, and the plunge base is excellent. The 5616 is basically the 5615 but with variable speed. The Bosch and PC routers are also excellent, and the Hitachi is often a great bang for the buck. I wouldn't hesitate to look at a DW or Makita either. If the budget is tight, refurbs can shave cost. If the budget is really tight, the current lineup of Craftsman routers gets pretty good marks for hobby use.
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
My first router was a big 15 amp. Ryobi variable speed plunge router with an edge guide. I bought it so I could use it in the router table extension on my table saw and as a hand held router. As a hand held router, it's a bit of a hand full (rather top heavy) and has found a permanent home in the router table. I bought a Bosch D-handle variable speed router for hand held use. It came with a great edge guide and I bought longer guide rods for it. Later, the multiple base kits came out and I have a 1 hp Ryobi kit. Had these been around when I bought the Bosch, I'd have gotten a multibase kit. The one I have has plunge, D-handle, and twin knob bases. Since then, I've added a router base for my hand held variable speed motor tool for inlay work , an 18 volt cordless hand held router, and a small Ryobi "rotozip" type tool converted to a hand held router with an accessory base. Needless to say, I have more than I need. Having 1/4" and 1/2" collets is absolutely worth having, especially as you collect bits. Sometimes a bit you need/want is only available in one shank size. One router accessory I can't do without is an old Leichtung Workshops Multifunction Height and Depth Gauge. I use it to set a router bit in the collet easily. I think I bought it at a woodworking show many years ago.

http://woodworker.com/heightdepth-gauge-mssu-117-085.asp
 
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#8 ·
Thanks for all the reply's so far!


I have been given a craftsman 1hp router and the table.

Looks like this>



It has 1/4" collet only.
The table is made for the router.


I bought a Rockler dovetail jig for building drawers which I have never done before. I found that the guide bushing does not adapt to the router without buying a universal base plate. So I was just going to mount the router to the table and use it for table cuts. But above someone stated power is good for the table.


I was going to then purchase a high hp router for the dovetail work.

Is my thinking in the right direction?
 
#9 ·
1 hp with a 1/4" collet will work for lighter stuff. Keep it slow, and let the blades do the work. If you try to put too much material through that the motor will bog down; with the smaller shaft it will flex and not stay true...worst case you will snap the shaft of the bit...after it chatters and leaves an edge that looks chewed up.

Not saying you can't use it; but you need to keep some things in mind.
 
#10 ·
Makes sense!

The jig I bought came with 8mm bits. Is there any advantage of one over the other when using 8mm vs 1/2". I assume I will need to buy a sleeve for 8mm when buying the router??


As far as the Router, I was looking at the DeWalt package you referred to. I have a lot of DeWalt tools and have been completely satisfied with how they perform. But someone told me that Porter Cable is the way to go in routers. So thats why I asked here.
 
#13 ·
I used the Bosch today cutting some exact width dadoes in some cabinet sides.

Back to the table mounted router...the more horsepower, the better. Especially if you have any inkling of making raised panel doors. Those big cutters need horsepower. I cut some with my Bosch, and made it OK. By the next time I needed to cut the panels, I had acquired the Triton. That things just loafs along spinning that 3 1/2 inch cutter at it slowest rpm.

I think you found out the hard way that Craftsman routers use proprietary equipment, or at least they used to. Maybe not any more. I have no idea who makes their routers nowadays.

If you decide to buy an insert plate and make your own router table, check the throat to make sure it will clear the big cutters. I had a Rockler insert plate and the opening was too small. When I built the new table, I went with Kreg insert plates for the Bosch and the Triton. They come with holes predrilled so the height adjustment wrench will fit through the table.

My table is probably more than you want to start out with because it is height adjustable, has two routers and can be used for other projects besides routing. You may notice the Triton has a provision that locks the spindle at the top of the travel so the router bit can be changed with one wrench above the table. That is a nice feature.
 

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#14 ·
I have 5 routers I have gathered throughout the years from 1/8" up to 1/2". As others have noted the big-boy (15 amp) router is dedicated to a router table connected to my table saw. In this manner I can use a larger area of flatness and the table saw fence. My shop is both wood and metal and all fit into a single side of the three car garage. I have bought some of the routers from the pawn shop which I have dedicated to a particular bit. Btw,. Low expensive bits (carbide) can be had from "Banggood.com". This a Chinese broker, takes a couple weeks to get stuff, but the quality is good for the value. Tom
 
#15 · (Edited)
My woodworking master plan is to have three routers, small medium and large.

Large will be the big Triton and live in the table. Cheap and powerful.

Small is the DeWalt 611, which I have and is magnificent. The standard for small routers in my opinion. I have a plunge base for it too.

Medium I'll go with the Festool OF1400 for a do-it-all machine.

I also have a Craftsman router/table combo which is of suspect quality, and infuriating Craftsman aftermarket support (instructions say it can be used with a plunge base and 1/2" collet, just try finding one for sale. I dare you). But the price was too good to pass up, and it works well enough. Dust collection with the table is better than I expected.
 
#16 ·
We don't all like the same thing and that's what makes the world go round.
Like many on this forum, I've got more than one router. My preferred router is a D-handled Makita.
It has been a work-horse. I've used and abused this router for over 30 years and it's never been in the shop.
Sears Craftsman routers haven't held up for me.
I don't like the wrenches that came with my Porter Cable. (Trivial?)
I rarely use a plunge router.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Pat Warner may have info you need here http://www.patwarner.com/

Ease of use and price. Many find easy hard and hard easy . Depends on the individual. Each person is different in their opinions.A router kit makes your router versatile. A bit more money but opens different doors to its use.

A router or kit where accessories can be easily had or upgraded. Sometimes universal.At one time the Porter Cable 690 was king because everyone had it in the store and it was reasonably priced. I still buy them. \

Kits I like...
 

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#29 ·
The DeWalt 621 is probably the best mid sized router ever made, it's a 2 hp plunger thats for hand held work only, meaning it's not suitable for a table, if your in the market for this type of router this is the Cadillac of them all.

I'll post a link for all routers thats pretty informative, just click on the name of the router next to the pic of the tool.

https://www.hingmy.com/site/article.php?DeWalt-DW621-Review
 
#33 ·
#36 ·
I see that somebody already recommended Bosch 1617. I have this kit with fixed and plunge base. I also own a Ryobi, Skil and DeWalt(palm sander). The advantage with Bosch is over the table bit adjustment capability. This helps a great deal when the router is mounted on a table and you'll save the cost of a router lift. Get pair of offset wrenches and you are all set! Commercially available router lifts can cost up to $400. Also I bought the dust collection kit for the router so in handheld mode, it collects most of the dust generated when I hook it up to my dust collector. So I recommend the 1617 kit as well!
 
#37 ·
Thanks for all the help and advice. I looked into all kits that were talked about.

I ended up buying the Dewalt 618 kit. 2.25hp with plunge base. For $179 marked down from $269, I had to go with it. This lets me use more money for bits.

Sears is where I found the price if anyone else is interested.

At least this gets me started!!
 
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#46 ·
MT Is Formica the same type of material used on Melamine or is it slicker?

Nice looking cabinets! Love the color. Very clean look.
 
#48 · (Edited)
I have three routers and they are all Bosch, two are 1617, and one is the Colt. I have had other brands in my years, craftsman used to make good ones for general purposes, and Porter -Cable and Dewalt were/are good brands, depending on who you talk to, however I have built my router system around Bosch and have no regrets. I have the Bosch lift on my Bosch router table, and two standard router bases, and one plunge base, with the Colt having both bases. I work almost exclusively with local hardwoods, oak, maple, hickory, popular, walnut, cherry. and ash and have never had any problems doing what I wanted to to with my Bosch routers. I use almost all 1/2" shaft router bits, with the majority of them being Whiteside with the 1617s, and 1/4" shaft router bits with the Colt for finer work. .

I have often seen others try to rush their work on a router, that isn't a good idea for obvious and not so obvious of reasons. It takes patience and practice to use a router well, with emphasis on the patience. Trying to take too big of a bite, or feeding to fast, will not speed up the process, and may very well cause damage. Using the correct speed is also very important, the harder the wood, and the deeper the cut, the slower the speed should be, and let the router bit do its work, again don't rush it. While larger motors over 2.25 hp may get some jobs done faster, most jobs can be completed just as well with a 2.25 hp router if the above limitations are observed, time, speed of the router and patience, and always a good sharp quality router bit.
 
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