weedy101

hi all. my first post so take it easy on me! i have a craftsman 6" jointer. had it about a year. starting to actually use it and am finding that the joints are coming out concaved. in other words more out of tha middle than the ends. i have a dial; indicator and the knived are within 1 thou of the outfeed table which is part of base. i used a staight edge and found the infeed table 3-4 thou off. it is "tilting" away from knives. my limited knowledge of this stuff tells me this may be my problem. now to the hard part. i cannot find any adjustments for infeed table. even took table off - nothing. all clean but not a very clean machine surface where it bolts. suggestions anyone? i suppose i can look for some shims at a machine shop or something and try to shim table from underside but would like to see if anybody has "been there done that" so to speak. any help will be appreciated thanks tim

dbhost

Have you looked at Sears to see if you can get a replacement owners manual? It will likely include adjustment instructions....

__________________
-- Trying to follow the example of the master...

weedy101

have a manual. barely any info. aparently the only adjustments are for the fence and knive besides the overall depth of cut. looks like you get what you pay for. this may be the excuse i need to buy something else. thanks for reply. tim

Paul K

with the table dipping away, it is likely that you would get a concave cut. As to adjusting the table, pictures might help, but frankly I would suspect that you need to get some thin shims and use on the ways. you can get some brass stock at many hardware stores and use that. Comes in different thicknesses. Since you know how to use your indicator, then you can figure out how to do this i would guess. Add some shims and see what happens. Also, remember when jointing you should put pressure on the material on the infeed table only for as long as it takes to get some material on to the outfeed table, a comfortable amount, then apply the downward pressure from then on directly down on the outfeed table. hope this helps. Yes, some better jointers will have other methods to square them up. Funny thing is, the OLD ones, like my Crescent (circa 1930) had, on each table, a wedge in each corner to raise and lower that corner! MUCH easier to adjust such a table. too many of our modern tools don't expect us to do any adjustment.

best
Paul

Graphiti

It seems kinda fitting... This is also my first posting. Though I am not familiar with the jointer you have. I have two answers for you, the first is the solution I would do, the second is quoted from a review sight i came accross, the sight link is listed at the end.
Being that I am a machinist and fabricator my suggestion may seem extreem but here it is... Working off the assumtion your planer uses an angled sliding assembly similar to the Delta/Grizzly brands, to adjust the height of the infeed table my sugestion would be to CAREFULLY file the ways of the bed or table until the proper angle is attained. careful use of a straight edge and dial indicator will insure success. Regardless if you do the bed or table you should smooth the contact surface on the opposing piece, also, use a fine cut file in excellent condition, preferably brand new. Then after filing polish the contact surfaces, starting with 600-800 grit paper mounted on a flat block and lubricated with airtool oil (best lube I've found for things like this) and finishing with 2000-3000 grit paper will make it slide like butter. As I said, I do machine work and custom fabrication, I tend toward the "do it like they shoulda' angle". Even though it will take far longer to true the surfaces, you won't have to worry about shims slipping or the table falling out of true when you adjust for different depths of cut, also, you may slightly reduce the noise produced when operating due to a reduction in vibration.

"The secret is to look at the exploded diagram. The infeed table mechanism is bolted to the body with four bolts, next to which are "set screws". Loosening the bolts and adjusting the set screws changes the orientation of the infeed table. I *think* I have it aligned now - have to try it out later."
http://www.epinions.com/review/Craft...t_151263022724

Hope this helps, if not, feel free to e-mail me the exploded schematic, I could help more.

P.S. I love solving these kinds of problems, I feel useful. That and it's just fun figuring stuff out.

Good Luck,
R.G.

Paul K

If this is the same jointer, and you can adjust with the 4 set screws, that is the way to go for sure. If there are no set screws, I would be somewhat surprised. But it IS common on angled sliding ways, to add shims. Normally there is a piece of stock that is between the two surfaces, the table and the base, and the shim is added on the lower side of this piece of stock. It does NOT fall out over time. Remember, you adjust the table up and down only a small amount, and the stock piece doesn't move, so there is no movement between it and the shim. Agreed R G's method might be more elegant, but one might also grind or file away a bit too much. Much easier and safer to add shims. But FIRST, adjust with the set screws, that should clear it up.

weedy101

thanks for input. some great ideas. i had a brain fart. i found allen set screws under infeed table. borrowed a dial indicator set up from a machinist friend and have the infeed table within 2 thou of outfeed. as lose as i could! unfortunately i broke the links that hold fence on. bull in a china shop syndrome. waiting on those to see if i am on the rite track. thanks agian. will post results in a few days. tim

aaronmi07

I bought the same jointer a couple weeks ago and I finally brought it home last Friday (Sears is not very good with promisses). I tried setting it up yesterday and had the exact same problem with the tables not being coplanar and yes, there is nothing in the manual about dealing with this problem which I do understand is fairly common among jointers. I looked at that thing and all the screws going around under the bottom of the table and though there is an exploded diagram not being sure what I was really going to get into and have happen when I took them out and tried to get into the infeed table... i boxed it back up and I am taking it back on my lunch hour today! I have very little room in my shop but I don't care, Woodcraft is having a sale on Jet tools April 12 and Jets 6" enclosed stand planer with 46" planer bed is going to be mine. After the sale and rebate it will only be 100+ dollars more than the craftsmen and even if I have to shim the tables at least I am confident I am working with a better quality piece of equipment. I had read about those linkages busting up. I really should have listened to everyone and just done it right the first time. shop space is over rated right? I don't want to spend a month or more from the time I pay for the product until I can actually start using the brand spakin new product because I have to one, figure out for myself why it isn't working right; Two, figure out how to fix the darn thing so it will work and then Three, like in your case, you know have to wait for parts. Just ridiculous. Thanks for letting me use your post to vent! Phew, I needed that...

aaronmi07

OK Weedy, I took my jointer back to Sears and they gave me a full return, no restocking fee or anything. I got back 301.18 since I also bought the 2yr shop warranty thingy. On my way back to the office I drive by a Woodcraft (love the place!) and I stopped in to take a peak at the Rikon 6" jointer that the sale expires on today. I wasn't too pleased with what I saw, didn't seam to function very smoothly but it was a floor model afterall (don't really like the green anyway) and got to talking to the salesman... go figure. Anyway, to make a long story short I just bought a Jet 6" jointer with the 57" bed and quick change knifes for only 525 after tax and when I get my rebate back it will have only cost $500.00! The %10 off thing was advertised to only be good on April 12 but they were willing to work with me anyway to make the sale. (honestly I was going to wait) Now that is only $200 more than that cheesy little frustrating benchtop machine. Think about that! Woo HOOO! I don't know how I am going to fit this thing in my shop but right now I don't care. I don't know if you have a Woodcraft anywhere near by but if you do take that machine back to Sears and... GO!

Graphiti

As another option to consider, Lowe's carries the Delta 6" planer for about 350, not on sale. I got one about a month ago and it's rock solid. Very quiet for any tool, it makes less noise while cutting than my tablesaw makes just free spinning. It's all heavy cast iron and forged steel, and best of all... It has a manual that explains the assembly and setup very completely. For years I edge jointed boards with my router table and didn't think I could justify the cost of a jointer. One week after I bought it, I cant imagine working without it. Set-up on the delta was super easy and straight forward and it cuts superbly. Honestly I don't have alot of experience with jointers, as I said I used to edge with the router table and I had a very elaborate sled to face joint with my planer, I just don't see too many ways you could make a better jointer. BTW. my budget for the jointer was up to 1k. I chose the Delta based on quality not price.

Paul K

If you are going to get a new jointer/planer/table saw, or whatever, don't forget to have a bit of patience and check out Craigslist. Even here on the westcoast, where there AREN'T as many good deals on tools on these sites. I see nice jointers and other tools every day that are great deals. Saw a perfect condition DJ20 Parallegram type jointer for $750 just yesterday. This is a great 8" Delta jointer that lists for more than double that. Since you are back east, check out Ebay too, as a lot of tools are listed there that are good deals. Just don't go for the first one, wait till you see a good deal.

best
paul

weedy101

thanks for your replies aaron and paul and graffiti. i wish i could bring that sears crap back but stuck with it now. got those links in and tried it out. just as bad. getting extremely frustrated. i have read on other forums something about bringing the outfeed table down a few thou under knives? since my outfeed table is not adjustable can i bring the knives up a bit over outfeed? the tables are in coplane within a couple thou. checked knives and they are level or 1 thou under outfeed. i will try bringing knives up and let you know if it works or wether it becomes my canoe's anchor. thanks tim

Graphiti

If they dont want to refund you for it then return it to the tool counter as defective, get the replacement, tear up the packaging while un-boxing the replacement, then return it as defective... subtly let them know that the product line is defective so you'll probably have to return it 10 or 20 times before you get a non-defective machine. Do it while they are busy and chat with the customers about the poor way they stand behind their tools... Actually look for people looking at the expensive stuff to "warn" them about the lemon they may be about to buy. they'll have a refund in your hand very quickly... They work on commision so they won't risk losing the $1000 table saw they are trying to sell. It might sound like a nasty way to get results but It's no worse than a major corporation selling an unuseable tool and not doing anything to make it right. I had an issue with their CNC wood carving machine. Paid 2k and it was broken right out of the box, their response was that they would ship it back to the manufacturer, a company called Carve Wright, and have them repair it and ship it back. They told me I'd have to wait 4 to 6 weeks to get back my brand new, broken, repaired, two thousand dollar CNC Carving machine. I politely worked my way to an assistant store manager and made it clear that they were going to go pick me up one from another store, Brand new and sealed in the box or I was going to hang out every day and make sure every customer looking at any power tool would know what kind of risk they were taking if they bought from Sears. I was truly amazed they would actually try to pull something like that but after reading on the Carve Wright Forum I guess about half of the machines delivered were nonfuntional in one way or another and apparently those who were buying them were mostly putting up with it and waiting up to two months to get their new, broke, fixed and returned machine back. I felt I was being a pretty good sport not just saying forget it and gimme back my money. Regaurdless, when he realized I was going to push till they treated me in a reasonable manner, he had a replacement there in less than an hour. Thankfully, I haven't had any problems with the second machine, but seeing as it is a very light duty tool, I am careful to keep it's operating load very low. HEW!... sorry for the rant, I just hate when companies sell stuff that don't work right and refuse to make it right.
R.G.

__________________
Be it by finesse or force... A square peg will go into a round hole.

Paul K

I will leave dealing with Sears to Graphiti Tim. I haven't dealt with them for years, thankfully. I think they make decent hand tools like sockets, but anything with an electric cord, I shy away from. I suspect Graphiti is right that you can make them deal with you, just you will have to be pushy.
As I understand this thread, You figured out how to adjust the infeeed and now it is fairly coplaner with the outfeed table, but broke some linkage on the fence. So get them to fix the fence, or again, take the whole pile of ### back to sears and complain. Perhaps when they hear that you have been on this site and everyone else is complaining about this machine, they might figure that they don't want to piss a lot of folks off.
As to seeting the knives. Yes, you set the knives a couple thousands above the outfeed table is not an uncommon way of doing it. You do that, NOT adjust the outfeed table up and down. However, that is NOT going to fix your original problem, that was fixed with your making the infeed table coplaner, AND improving your feeding technique.

best
paul

Graphiti

I'm in total agreement with you there Paul, I don't buy anything from Sears that has a cord. the exception was the Carve Wright machine and that was only because the Carve Wright company had a 6 month+ waiting list and they make the tool for Sears. And that purchase was after a month chatting on Carve Wright's forum with other owners of the machine who all told me if I get a machine that works right from the start I'll have little to no trouble with it but if it's broke when I get it INSIST on a different machine or expect rediculus wait times and constant problems. I've had the machine for a year and a half and not a bit of trouble with it. If anyone is interested in a light duty CNC Router I'd recomend it, but I'd say deal with Carve Wright directly. Their customer service is great, you can actually talk to the engineers that designed the machine through the forum. http://www.carvewright.com/

Sorry for rambling so far off topic, mostly just wanted to say I agree word for word with Paul.
BTW. My name is Randy, I used Graphiti because it's the name of one of my two Custom Pool Cue Companies... Graphiti Custom Cues, it feels strange being called Graphiti as a name though.

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__________________
Be it by finesse or force... A square peg will go into a round hole.

johnep

All the above shows it is best to deal with a trusted supplier, even though you may pay a few dollars more. I like to deal with people who know what they are selling and will help you with advice before and after the sale.
johnep