duncsuss

I need guidance on the subject of nailers ... there are so many different types (brad nailer, finishing nailer, crown stapler, frame nailer, roofing nailer, etc, etc, etc) and I don't have the first idea what the names mean, let alone which one might be a good choice for me.

What I think I'd like is something that can handle a couple of simple tasks:

1) I'm going to make shop wall cabinets and bench tool workstations -- a few nails through the joints to hold till the glue sets could be handy; most likely to be 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, possibly MDF or melamine-coated particle board

2) if I get half-way good at it, maybe try bookshelves, etc, for the house, pine or even a fancier wood like oak or maple

3) a couple of rooms need the base-board replacing, so something that can put a suitable nail through base-board into plastered dry-wall will be useful

I don't plan to build a deck or house extension, replace a roof, or any such work. And I'm fairly patient -- I don't need rapid-fire, a couple of seconds between nails is fine.

What type of nailer would fit the types of work I'm thinking of?

Would something like this Campbell Hausfeld 2-gallon compressor and kit be a good starting point?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...9DI&lpage=none


Thanks for reading & any advice you can offer,

Duncan

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Duncan

cabinetman

Those small compressors work fine for nailing and stapling. Try to find one oil lubed. I wouldn't get one thinking it will support all air tools or a spray gun to any great degree. As for nailers and staplers, I would get dedicated tools. For a stapler, 1 1/4" narrow crown 18 ga staples should be sufficient for your shop stuff. For brad nailing an 18 ga. with a capacity of 2" would be good (HF has them pretty cheap).

woodnthings

Home depot 3 guns and compressor: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...egoryID=524403
I have the Porter Cable 16 ga finish nailer, 18ga pin nailer and crown stapler. The compressor is noisy but ran like a charm for the entire project. My framing nailers are Sencos 3 1/2", 325+ I think. I have 2 one for framing no. 16's, the other set for No 8's for sheathing. Oilless or oiled I don't know if it matters I have both types. Oilless are quite noisy. My 60 gal 5HP is oilless, but it's been running for 15 yrs...... bill
Air tools take varying amount of air volume to operate, and some tools like grinders and socket
impacts wrenches will draw down a small compressor immediately. So watch the air consumption figures to match the compressor output if contemplating tool usage other than nailers.

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dbhost

From a cheapskate perspective... I have the following air tools that are working great for me so far...

Central Pnuematic #95386 2HP 8 gallon oil lubricated air compressor. (On sale $79.99 -20% off coupon).
Central Pnuematic #66872 16 ga finish nailer. ($39.99 - 20% off coupon).
Central Pnuematic #98917 10 ga 28 degree framing nailer. ($49.99 coupon).
Central Pnuematic #97526 23 ga pin nailer. ($14.99 coupon).

The pin nailer leaves such a teeny tiny hole that it is hard to tell anything got driven into the wood. Which is good. 23 ga pins are tiny, which is lousy if you are using the pins to actually help structurally. Generally speaking pins are great for holding things together while glue dries.

The finish nailer leaves a small hole that is usually filled with the ever so slightest amount of filler. These offer structural hold. The finish nailer is the gun I use the most. It fires the fasteners that are ideal for shop cabinet and jig use, and work very well for projects that are nail & glue.

Framing nailer is just what it says, for framing. I bought this to do fence work, as well as framing type work on an upcoming shed project. I will use this in the shop for ROUGH construction of projects like 2x4 and ply based benches and such. These are useful for joints where glue will NOT be used, and appearances don't matter, but the added strength of steel does matter.

I have an older, I think it is an Ingersoll Rand pnuematic stapler that was given to me. Fires the same staples are my Arrow T-50 manual stapler. This is great for upholstery projects, or for say, attaching hardboard into a wide rabbet on the back of a cabinet.

I would not suggest that 2 gallon compressor, any of those 2 gallon jobs, is going to have to refill the tank, OFTEN. The 8-10 gallon models are not that much larger in overall dimensions as it is the compressor head itself that takes up most of the room in that size class compressor... Get a bigger tank if you can.

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BHOFM

I have the 18 gauge brad, stapler. I have never
used it for staples but it is great for pining and
tacking things while the glue sets.

Some times I leave the brad proud so I can remove
it later or replace it with a peg.

For just around the shop use I don't think you can
beat it for the price.

Little compressors are noisy. Bottom line!

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duncsuss

Thanks for these tips; follow-up question -- what task would make you choose staples over brads?

Regards,

Duncan

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Duncan

duncsuss

That Home Depot set is above my price range, but I see the logic behind getting something big enough to do more than just shoot a few nails. At this stage I think I'll settle for cheap stuff, knowing it doesn't have the capacity to run spray guns or wheel-nut runners.

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Duncan

duncsuss

That's a very helpful description of what each tool can be used for, thanks.

The Harbor Freight prices on those links are substantially higher than what you paid -- perhaps they give better deals in the stores than they offer online? (There is a store about an hour away, do you think it's worth driving over? Kind of like a Toys 'r' Us for the older kids?)

If you had to choose one or the other, would you opt for a pin nailer or a finish nailer?

Thanks again,

Duncan

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Duncan

duncsuss

Which make brad nailer/stapler? That's a great tip about removing the brad, thanks!

Best regards,

Duncan

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Duncan

dbhost

Yes they do give MUCH better deals in store. Go to www.harborfreightusa.com and bring up the current ad. They are also advertising like crazy in the magazines lately. Nov 2009 Wood Mag for example has the $49.99 framing nailer...

If I had to pick a pinner, or a finish / brad nailer, I would pick the finish nailer... But that is my preference. YMMV...

I have the stapler because it was given to me. I can set the staple depth so that the staple is however proud of the surface. So for example if I am shooting 3/4" staples, I can leave the staple 1/4" proud for things like stapling wire for Christmas lights up...

Not sure if you know this or not, oil lubricated compressors are quieter than oil free compressors (and last longer). Not saying ANY small compressor is quiet though. They will all wake the dead and annoy the geezer down the street...

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BHOFM

HF!

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duncsuss

thanks!

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Duncan

duncsuss

thanks, I was heading in that direction -- as a newbie I'm not going to worry about whether a pin hole is less visible than a brad hole; maybe when I've managed to get corners square

makes sense; so far we've had a friendly relationship with our neighbours, guess this is going to determine where the limits are

Best regards,

Duncan

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Duncan

duncsuss

thanks Arren, but I'm not looking for a roofing nailer

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Duncan

duncsuss

It wasn't the plan*, but I ended up buying this cheapo kit from Sears:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915206000P

For $69.99 you get a 3 gal 100psi compressor plus an 18 gauge 2" brad nailer and a couple of attachments. It isn't oil-lubed, but the noise level seems acceptable. For my needs I think it'll be okay (I did buy the additional protection plan.)

Thanks for all the help,

Duncan

* (the rest of the story) ------------
Sears Outlet web site guided me to a store a couple of towns over to buy a refurb unit, a 17 gal 150psi vertical unit for $65. It turned out to still be at the repair facility.

They wouldn't take a prepay on it, so I looked around. They had a $99 unit (4 gal / 100psi), but none in stock - only the floor model, which he wouldn't sell me. However, it was in stock at the Sears nearest my home, so I paid for it and drove over there to pick it up.

Got it into the car, then had to look around for a nailer ... which is when I saw the Evolv $69 kit ... following the path of least effort (and expense) I returned the one from my car and walked out with all I need to get started on this adventure

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Duncan

BHOFM

A word of caution for an old safety inspector and
accident investigator.

When using longer brads that are this thin, watch
where you hold the pieces with the fingers. Try
to stay at least the length of the brad from the
joint.

These thin brads can change direction and come
out of the work piece in strange places. They can
strike a knot or hard grain and make a u-turn in
the wood. This is common when nailing a mitered
corner from both sides, the second brad strikes the
first brad and makes a turn for the worst.

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duncsuss

I appreciate that warning, it's something I wouldn't have thought about (until something bad happened)

I grabbed an extra pack of brads that has 3 sizes (I think they're 5/8", 1 1/4" and 2") thinking it's probably best to use a shorter nail for thinner material.

Duncan

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Duncan

Chad

Remember BHOFM's warning I did that a year ago with cedar. The brad curled around and went into the bottom of my thumb and out the fingernail. I watch where I hold alot better now.