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Old 10-02-2009, 08:37 PM   #1
Wichita Kevin
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Default Cutting miter joints

I am trying to make 90 degree miter joints on both ends of a 6 inch wide board using my compound miter saw but 6 inches is to high for the saw. I also have a table saw but can not seem to get the correct board length between the miters on each end. Any ideas?

Last edited by Wichita Kevin; 10-02-2009 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:41 PM   #2
Julian the woodnut
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You need to either move the fence over or lower the bit down and multiple passes to get to the final shape. If you take all of the material out in one pass tear out can be a big issue.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:58 PM   #3
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Default Lower the bit down?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian the woodnut View Post
You need to either move the fence over or lower the bit down and multiple passes to get to the final shape. If you take all of the material out in one pass tear out can be a big issue.
The guy is using a miter saw, so I don't understand your reply.
Yes 6" will not fit vertically under most miters saws, (chop saw) but if you have a sliding compound miter saw use that with the work flat, if not, using the table saw is the best choice for a miter on a 6" wide board. If you have a "left tilt" saw as most are these days, the length of the board is on the bottom, rather than visible from the top. Use an auxiliary miter gage fence extension that runs 6" or so beyond the blade to the right, make a pass and cut through the auxiliary fence, leaving a clean saw kerf. This will enable you see where the cut will be when using your finished material by locating the dimension at the left of the visible saw cut on the fence. Measure, mark and cut! It's that easy now. bill
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Last edited by woodnthings; 10-04-2009 at 03:04 AM.
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:18 PM   #4
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Are not chop saws, regardless of whether or not they are sliding compound miter saws (scms) able to tilt? If so just lay the board flat, tilt the saw and cut the miter. You will still have to use the technique Bill suggested to get the length correct.

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Old 10-04-2009, 12:54 AM   #5
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Kevin,

I assume that you are trying to miter a corner to make the final 90°. or making each cut at 45°.

There is a trick with 45° miters. It all goes back to High School Geometry or Trig.

If you measure the inside distance between two mitered corners. The outside distance will be equal to the inside distance plus twice the thickness of the board.

e.g. If you are building a square box out of 3/4" material that has the inside dimensions of 12" the outside dimensions will be 13-1/2".

BTW - The length of the slope or miter cut or the 45° bevel will be the thickness of the board times 1.414. Although it is doubtful that you'll need this calculation in woodworking.
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:43 AM   #6
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Thank you all for the great information. Where do I find a miter fence?
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:07 PM   #7
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Default Auxilary Miter gauge fence question

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The guy is using a miter saw, so I don't understand your reply.
Yes 6" will not fit vertically under most miters saws, (chop saw) but if you have a sliding compound miter saw use that with the work flat, if not, using the table saw is the best choice for a miter on a 6" wide board. If you have a "left tilt" saw as most are these days, the length of the board is on the bottom, rather than visible from the top. Use an auxiliary miter gage fence extension that runs 6" or so beyond the blade to the right, make a pass and cut through the auxiliary fence, leaving a clean saw kerf. This will enable you see where the cut will be when using your finished material by locating the dimension at the left of the visible saw cut on the fence. Measure, mark and cut! It's that easy now. bill
You simply make one out of a 1 x 3 x at least 24". Hardwood is best but a straight smooth board will work, even particle board, since you are going to cut into it anyway. Mount it on the miter gauge by using the 2 holes provided and countersink or counterbore for the screws or bolts so they do not protrude beyond the face pf the board towards the blade. Stagger it to the left about 12" to 18" or so but leaving enough to the right for the blade to cut through.

There are many types of miter guages the stock Craftsman, as shown here without an auxilary fence and then an older Craftsman with the fence attached and then some more exotic ones that slide to expand. bill
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Last edited by woodnthings; 10-05-2009 at 01:35 PM.
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