Crosscutting Cabinet Panels - Woodworking Talk

asherad · 11-10-2008, 03:14 PM

I've planted my main flag in cabinet building for right now, and I'm just practicing building these wooden boxes straight and true. Although I do other woodworking stuff, this is the majority of what I'm doing as a hobby right now.

My question is this:

What's the best, most efficient, systematic system for crosscutting panels for cabinets? Looking at crosscutting a 3/4" oak or birch plywood from anywhere between 10" and 24" crosscut length. Any cabinet builders that can add to a amateur's wisdom?

Currently I'm using my Jet TS, with a miter gauge and extension fence on it, and a stop block against my rip fence for repeatability. I'm considering building sliding cross cut jig - but then starting considering a sliding table... then starting thinking maybe a radial arm saw would be ideal....

Any comments?

cabinetman · 11-10-2008, 03:48 PM

I do most all crosscuts on the TS. Repetitious cuts within size for the RAS. You may need to size down a sheet prior to your final cut, and that can be done with a circular saw.

Tony B · 11-10-2008, 04:43 PM

Normally I use the table saw and my fence.
I will use a crosscut jig I made when the panel is long compared to the cutting width. How long and how wide? Hard to say. Im not at my shop so I cant measure anything, but trust your instincts and you will know when it is awkward.
If you have to think about it even for a split second, then you need the jig.

I generally dont consider a Radial Arm Saw as a fine woodworking tool. I dont own one now, but when I did, it was rarely used.

GeorgeC · 11-10-2008, 04:58 PM

I think that a sled combined with your table saw will do what you want. You can either build the sled or purchase one. I used a homebuilt for many years and it did good for me. Then recently I purchased one from Rockler and wished I had of done that long ago. Much more flexibility.

G

smitty1967 · 11-10-2008, 05:00 PM

I'm with Tony on both issues....

I will cut down a full sheet to finished dimension plus 1/2" using my handheld circular saw and a clamped fence. I will then use the cabinet saw to get all pieces to the same, correct, finished dimension.

Also, I will never count on a radial arm saw for accurate cuts again. I had one once, used it for a while, and realized this was where my accuracy was being shot in the a$$! Stick with the accuracy of the table saw and fence.

regards,
smitty

skymaster · 11-10-2008, 08:43 PM

Asherad: Sled works fine for small quantities however if you want the cat's Meow then here is what I did: Jessem Mast-R-Slider.
http://www.amazon.com/JessEm-07500-M.../dp/B000G1KNXC.
Not really cheap but fantastic and bets the heck outta a 50,000 Altendorf

asherad · 11-11-2008, 10:48 AM

Thanks everyone - I really appreciate the expert advice and having the opportunity to hear how you pros do it. I can now stop considering the $700 RAS (ouch). I think I'll start with getting the Rockler sliding table, then potentially upgrade to the Jessem depending on the results.

I only wish the Rockler sliding table was on the right of the blade. I have more table space there and could setup a stop block for repeatable cuts. With most cabinets your looking at 30 - 36" lengths, and the Rockler table doesn't seem to have any functionalitiy to help with that. I'd have to depend on a marking on the board. I see the Jessem as a 48" fence with stop block... mmm. I'll have to think about it. Quality is really important to me - but maybe the 1/8" variation over a cabinet side isn't that important.

Again - I TRULY appreciate you all. Thanks.
Tony

skymaster · 11-11-2008, 12:37 PM

Asherad: First 1/8"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that is chainsaw territory

OK: SLED, EZ use both miter slots, Bridge the whole sled fore and aft so the blade pass thru it, hardwood fence in front and smaller in rear.
Use your fence with a stop block as your sled stop, whatever you use as the base of the sled say 3/4, then make a saddle that lays on the table between the fence and the sled, this keeps what u are crosscutting at the same level and it wont drop when you cut it.
Thats the way I did mine b4 I got the Jessem. Money aside you cant believe how great,easy,useful,accurate that Slide is. NO I DO NOT work or sell for Jessem.

Sit down and really ask yourself how much panel work you are going to be doing and how steady. You can price shop, I think Rockler is a bit cheaper. Money really doesnt enter picture, yes it is 500 plus bucks, that said I paid for mine on the first job I used it for!!!! Check my pics, "Chatham Bedroom". You have to figure how much time and effort is going to be in that sled to get it right vs, just biting the small bullet now and ur done forever.
Jack

GeorgeC · 11-11-2008, 12:38 PM

With a good sharp pencil you will not have any 1/8" variation. I would be surprised if you do not keep your tolerances within 1/32" or even 1/64".

G

cabinetman · 11-11-2008, 02:40 PM

Shop machinery should be set up for absolute accuracy. Whether it's a $70.00 RAS or a $700.00 RAS. If some individuals are unable to achieve that either in their inability to do so, or that the tool is beyond that ability, that tool should not be used. I find out things like that by direct application without being influenced. I have pretty good luck setting up a RAS, others may not.

Some panels may not be of a size that would be sled appropriate.

skymaster · 11-11-2008, 07:44 PM

Cabinetman: Just to clarify, I precut all my sheetgoods cause I dont have the space to run full 4 x 8 and I am too frakin old to handle em anymore :} The Jessem will NOT handle 4 x 8's it will only crosscut about 36". Since I dont get even that wide it is no problem. I blank my sheets and leve em 8' long then Xcut em to size plus 1/4" then rip and xcut to size. You can do it with a sled but you need the whole length of the ts and table to support. I support with an aux table since slide is on left side.
Jack