Craftsman Radial Saw user needs help! - Woodworking Talk

DanSommer · 03-18-2009, 03:04 AM

I'm new to this group and am looking forward to any advice that the more experienced can offer.

Here's what I have . . . . .

I was given this Craftsman Radial saw (113.197751) for FREE! The previous owner gave it to me because the blade wouldn't turn and he was figuring it would save him a trip to the junk yard. When I got the saw home I found a pack of mud wasps had built a nest inside the blade guard cementing the blade to the guard! After breaking the mud loose I was able to remove the blade guard and test the motor. It works great!

Here's a couple of pictures of the RAS so you can get a feel for the condition of the saw when I picked it up . . . . .

I'm in the process of cleaning it up and come to find out that Sears doesn't have some of the parts that I need. For those of you that have been through this process perhaps you can tell me where you eventually found the parts that you needed. Perhaps you have some old saws laying around that could be parted out. In any event here are the parts that I'm currently looking for . . . . .

1) The "T" handle that attaches to the metal lever that locks the radial arm.

2) A set of wrenches (7/8" open end and 1 1/16" box end)

3) A miter indicator cap that is located at the rear of the radial arm. It has a little finger that hangs down over the the number ring that shows the angle as the radial arm is moved.

Any advice that you could offer would be appreciated. If you have any parts or know where I could find some I'd like to know. Thanks in advance.

Gerry KIERNAN · 03-18-2009, 11:13 AM

Look up Emerson. They are the manufacturers, and may be able to help with parts. They also have a recall on with regard to the blade guard. You can check to see if it applies to your model.

Gerry

DanSommer · 03-18-2009, 05:27 PM

Thanks Gerry! I contacted Emerson on the recall and the saw qualified. The guard and the table are on the way.

Emerson also told me that they no longer have any parts for the saw and told me to contact SearsPartsDirect.com.

I had already contacted SearsPartsDirect.com about the parts that I listed in my first post. The part that I would really like to get my hands on is the "T" handle which they no longer make. I may end up just making something out of tube stock but it would be nicer if I could find an original part. If anyone has an old saw that matches this one and it has the "T" handle please let me know.

woodnthings · 03-18-2009, 11:27 PM

Using Radial Arm Saw as a Panel Ripper

Radial Arm Saws.....Pros/Cons

Once you get this Saw up and running, beware of the safety issues with RAS's namely the blade rotation is always trying to lift the work up off the table, whereas a table saw pulls the work down into the table. Ripping is especially dangerous and the blade guard must be in good operating condition and have the nose press/kissing the work as it's run under into the blade. MY opinion is the radial saw does best for crosscutting and the table saw is best for ripping. FYI ........bill

Hhaines · 03-19-2009, 09:55 AM

I used to have a saw like this....It worked fine.....a little advise......always use a razor sha

rp blade.....dull blades on this rig are dangerous.........

DanSommer · 03-19-2009, 10:11 AM

I appreciate the advise about safety on this type of saw. My Dad had one and I can remember the precautions that we took when using the saw. Luckily we had no accidents.

There should always be a healthy respect for the power contained within our tools.

Other than ebay is there any place that specializes in old power tool parts - kind of like a junk yard where people part out old power tools?

woodnthings · 03-19-2009, 12:44 PM

I don't know of any such place, but it's a great idea...sounds like you might be able to start one on your own!...heh..heh

I've had every generation old Craftsman RAS since 1960, I gave that one away to my neighbor. I have a 12" RAS dedicated to 90 degree crosscuts only, a 10" similiar to yours currently not set up, and a 12' compound sliding arm Dewalt for miters, and a 10" Craftsman chop saw with laser. The "best set-up for a radial saw on a construction site.....is a 16'or longer, 2x12 as the back table, centered on the blade, another 2x12 about 4' or longer, in front as the work table. This allows for crosscutting of multiple standard length studs and ripping plywood without a helper. JMHO bill

DanSommer · 03-20-2009, 12:10 PM

I may be wishing for a miracle in finding a "T" handle for this saw but it's worth a try. The date code indicates that it was made January 9th, 1979. I'm still hopeful that someone may run across this thread and contact me.

As a backup I'm considering fabricating a handle. I've included a section of the parts diagram below and highlighted the handle that I'm looking for.

I'm toying with the idea of taking a 44mm Clear Acrylic Ball and drilling a 1/8" slot that would allow the lever to fit inside. I'm sure there are some other ways of doing this but the trick is the interface between the fabricated handle and the metal lever. There's some odd ball angles on the lever that the original molded plastic handles compensated for. I need to come up with an idea that can handle all the pressure when locking the arm.

If you've got any ideas I'd enjoy hearing about them.

woodnthings · 03-21-2009, 12:41 AM

Based on the photo and the exploded view it seems that you only need the handle part of the lever arm, not the whole assembly. If that's the case there are ready made knobs/ handles with 1/4" or 5/16ths threaded inserts at Woodcraft, and Rockler. Just cut a threaded bolt long enough to go into each handle 1/2" or so and screw them to gether with a dab of pipe sealant or blue loctite and I think you're done. It will look just like the exploded view with the metal plate sandwiched in between the 2 handles on the threaded bolt. Under $5.00.

....bill
PS did you notice that you are in the second photo taking the picture?
PSS. Some Porter Cable router wrenches are 7/8th open end and flat enough for your saw application.

sikrap · 03-21-2009, 02:27 PM

I'm sure you've already heard this, but you should check out Craigslist. At least in my neck of the woods, it seems like there's always someone trying to either sell an old Craftsman RAS really cheap or giving them away. I just bought one for my son for $65 and it runs like a Swiss watch. Even if you have to pay $20-$30, it would probably be worth it to have some spare parts. Good luck!!

Just took another look at the picture and realized what you're looking for. I know it wouldn't be "stock", but couldn't you take a 1" dowel about 5" or 6" and drill thru it and then just use a long nut and bolt to secure the new "handle" to the armature?

cabinetman · 03-21-2009, 04:15 PM

Your best bet is to watch Craigs List, and Ebay regularly. Your local newspaper classifieds is another source. Those saws are out there and can be had pretty inexpensively. There is a good site for old machinery: http://www.owwm.com/. You can search by manufacturer, or by the machine/photos. You might find a deal there. If nothing else the site is cool.

DanSommer · 03-22-2009, 01:01 PM

I think what I need is a big thick spacer that I can cut to length and then insert a threaded rod down the center. The trick is the space around the metal lever isn't uniform. There is plenty of metal around half of the lever to "crank down on" but the other half rolls off the side. I believe the original pieces had some cut out sections that dipped down to compensate for the absence of the lever.

I checked the OWWM site and apparently they are rebuilding their "For sale" area.

I was intriqued by WOODNTHINGS suggestion about premade knobs. Do you have a link to some of the knobs you think would work?

woodnthings · 03-22-2009, 03:00 PM

Rockler has them in their stores, or online Part no 34212, 5/16ths thread 1 5/8ths long for $1.41 ea. many more are shown on page 140 of their June 2008 cat. I keep an assortment on hand for making jigs of my own design. They also have a jig package with "T" nuts and assorted knobs.

bill
I think I know what you are saying about the lever not having a full circle bearing surface. You could improvise a spacer with the missing profile to clamp down on and maybe a washer on either side of the lever to distribute the pressure more evenly. It's a shame how designers just don't KISS and have to put goofy shapes on things that don't require them.. I can say that.... I'm an retired Industrial Designer!