craftsman 113.12171 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 29 Old 06-02-2011, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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craftsman 113.12171

Hey,

Anybody have any experience with this saw?
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post #2 of 29 Old 06-03-2011, 06:33 AM
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Used to have a similar saw. What's the problem?

Harrison, at your service!
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post #3 of 29 Old 06-03-2011, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by H. A. S. View Post
Used to have a similar saw. What's the problem?
No problem that I know of. Looking to purchase on CL ($75), but was wondering if it would be worth it. I know the CM brand has not held up on it's history of late but this is an older model and wondered if this was one that was something I can depend on for my simple usage. Not building cabinets, but little week-end warrior type projects.
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post #4 of 29 Old 06-03-2011, 02:55 PM
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As long as it has an outboard induction motor and a belt, it should be very similar to most other Emerson era contractor saws. The fences weren't very good, but are fairly reasily upgradable to something like a Delta T2. These saws basically have the same guts as the more recent Ridgid TS3650 saws and their predecessors. If it does have an induction motor, the motor is worth $50-$60, so no real downside if it runs.
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post #5 of 29 Old 06-03-2011, 03:59 PM
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that is a lot like my table saw and i realy like everything on it except the fence is not the best
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post #6 of 29 Old 06-03-2011, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Gonna take a look at it tomorrow. Thanks for the input.
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post #7 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I went to see the saw. Took some pics. Tell me what you guys think. The top is a good bit rusty, any fixes? also, the belt is looking like it will need to be replaced soon. I turn it on and it ran nicely. A lot quiter than I expect for an older saw. The stand has wheel but can be lowered to sit on stable feet. This is a feature I like due to the need to move around in the garage for usage and storage.

One thing we, the seller and I, couldn't figure out is how to raise the blade. Additionally, replacing the blade, do you have to take it apart? It was her fathers so she didn't know and I am just not familiar with it so I didn't either. Any suggestions?

Thanks.
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post #8 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 02:27 PM
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There should be an elevation hand wheel on that stem that's poking out. You can probably find someway to turn that shaft until you hunt down a handwheel, but also note that on these type of saws you'll need to loosen that elevation lock handle that sits in the front just below the table top.




The rust will come off with some elbor grease. Why is there a piece of laminate on the left side of the saw? It looks a little rough, but if it runs well, could be a good saw with some TLC. See if she'll take $50-$60 for it (unless you think she needs the $15 more than you do!)
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post #9 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that info. That wheel was broken on this one. Not sure about why that lam is on there. she said some folks offered her that price, but she turned it down, maybe because she was betting on me going full price. Now seeing the things that need to be done and the cost to go along with it, I may offer her the 50-60 range. she seems like she could be reasonable if I explain to her why.

You know off-hand where I can find a belt for replacement?

Also, do you know if this allows for dado blade and such? Not sure if I will need them, just want to know the full capabilities of the saw.

Last edited by abetrman; 06-04-2011 at 02:45 PM.
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post #10 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 05:10 PM
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I believe the saw will fit your needs, since I too took a very similar saw and brought it back to life. If the arbor, which holds the blade, extends over and 1 1/4", it will except dado blades. With a little TLC and alot of elbow grease, it could be your favorite tool in the garage. I use 80/150/220 sand paper, sprayed and wiped it down with WD40 between grits. Clean with mineral spirits, then waxed top and fence. I also searched internet for manual using model # (PDF were free). It helps to have for alining blade and fence, part # ( for ordering at craftsmanparts.com) and for getting to know your saw alittle better. Sears still sales the elevation wheel.
Enjoy and be safe.
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post #11 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Cuzn..I really appreciate your info. It helps in making the decision. I tried searching for the manual and the wheel with no luck so far, but I will keep it going.
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post #12 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 07:15 PM
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Any v-belt of the same length width and depth will fit...radiator shops, auto parts, Ebay, etc. Get a high quality rubber cogged belt if you can.

You might find a handwheel on Ebay, or you can even place a want ad in the free classifieds.

There were many iterations of this saw that were very similar, so there are many versions of the manual that should offer some help. In addition to the Emerson made Cman contractor saws (113.298###), some of the Ryobi made 315.######, and likely some of the Emerson or Ryobi made Ridgid contractor saws (TS2412, 2424, 3612, 3650, 3660) have very similar guts. You may find that many of the parts you need are interchangeable, but always check first before making an assumption.
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post #13 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 07:55 PM
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Way back in my memory...

Quote:
Originally Posted by knotscott View Post
Any v-belt of the same length width and depth will fit...radiator shops, auto parts, Ebay, etc. Get a high quality rubber cogged belt if you can. ......
I thought automotive v belts and fractional FHP v belts had a different angle or pitch? The designation I remember is 3L, 4L, 5Lxx is for the fractional HP up to 1 HP belts. http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.co...-Belts-FHP.asp
bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #14 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
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I thought automotive v belts and fractional FHP v belts had a different angle or pitch? The designation I remember is 3L, 4L, 5Lxx is for the fractional HP up to 1 HP belts. http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.co...-Belts-FHP.asp
bill
You're probably right....it'd be a good idea to take the belt with you and have them match the dimensions. Note that the belts from some of the more recent Ridgid belts are serpentine belts, and won't fit unless you swap out the pulleys. You could always add a link belt to the stock pulleys.
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post #15 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys. Thanks for all of this useful info. I plan to contact her tomorrow and make an offer.
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post #16 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 10:46 PM
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I bought a similar saw a few months ago in very rough shape.

I ordered all parts needed including the belt for very reasonable prices from sears parts direct.
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post #17 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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I bought a similar saw a few months ago in very rough shape.

I ordered all parts needed including the belt for very reasonable prices from sears parts direct.
What parts did you need to get?
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post #18 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 11:13 PM
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I had to replace the belt, both pulleys, and both pulley keys which were missing.

Mine was very neglected. The previous owner kept it outside, possibly uncovered from what I could see. Top was covered with rust and inside was full of grime and spiders.

My thread with pictures is posted here:
Craftsman 113.299040 Table Saw (arbor/key question)
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post #19 of 29 Old 06-04-2011, 11:25 PM
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Additional pics after getting it all cleaned up.
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post #20 of 29 Old 06-05-2011, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks mina86. I am not having luck on the parts website for the model I have. The only part that shows os the motor itself. You think some of these parts are interchangeable with your model?
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