Craftsman 10" Table Saw adjustment? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 Old 06-18-2008, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4
View Woodro's Photo Album My Photos
Craftsman 10" Table Saw adjustment?

I have the Sears Craftsman 10" Model number 113.298030 and before my Dad passed away he had put a really nice fence on it. I'm a beginner and have been watching some setup videos on blade alignment and I think my saw needs a little adjusting.

I don't have a manual for it. I have cleaned the guides tracks with a wire brush wheel and sandpaper and got rid of all the rust but the miter still sticks toward the ends as the miter is pushed all the way through. I'm considering filing on the guide track in places.

Also I'd like to be able to adjust the blade, I have a thin curf 40 tooth that cuts great except that the wood does have a few marks. From the articles I've read, I think they are do to either the outfeed side of the blade or the thin curf blade I'm using.

What would ya'll suggest I do. Thanks for the help, I'm such newbie at this stuff I don't know where to go. This forum looked like a good place to start.
Woodro is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 06-18-2008, 07:30 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: blind wood worker
Posts: 223
View raskgle's Photo Album My Photos
wax

The first thing and the eazy way is to use wax on surface before a file. check the dividing knive for alinement where wood comes from saw blade, the divider should be about 10 thousands closer to the fence this should stop blade cut on edge of wood and prevent kick back. Always make all adjustments from matter gruve hope this helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodro View Post
I have the Sears Craftsman 10" Model number 113.298030 and before my Dad passed away he had put a really nice fence on it. I'm a beginner and have been watching some setup videos on blade alignment and I think my saw needs a little adjusting.

I don't have a manual for it. I have cleaned the guides tracks with a wire brush wheel and sandpaper and got rid of all the rust but the miter still sticks toward the ends as the miter is pushed all the way through. I'm considering filing on the guide track in places.

Also I'd like to be able to adjust the blade, I have a thin curf 40 tooth that cuts great except that the wood does have a few marks. From the articles I've read, I think they are do to either the outfeed side of the blade or the thin curf blade I'm using.

What would ya'll suggest I do. Thanks for the help, I'm such newbie at this stuff I don't know where to go. This forum looked like a good place to start.
raskgle is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 06-18-2008, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4
View Woodro's Photo Album My Photos
Do you have a dividing knife you could recommend that would fit this style saw? I'll also try the wax, thanks for the tip. I don't have a manual for this old saw. Do you know if it is made to have the blade adjusted at all?

Last edited by Woodro; 06-19-2008 at 12:02 AM.
Woodro is offline  
post #4 of 10 Old 06-19-2008, 10:09 AM
No Longer Here
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 496
View user4178's Photo Album My Photos
This is the closest in a model number that I could find for you in a manual. http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/Craftsman/113.298142.pdf
user4178 is offline  
post #5 of 10 Old 06-19-2008, 11:32 AM
No Longer Here
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,465
View knotscott's Photo Album My Photos
That's an Emerson American made saw that has very similar guts to the current Ridgid saws. It should have very similar adjustments to the Ridgid. This link should take you to the Ridgid 3660...click on the book icon for the manual, which should explain the alignment process, but note that your saw will not have the cam level to help move the trunnions...you'll need to do with using some persuasion.

The Ridgid blade guard and splitter might fit too, but I'm not sure. Ebay may have something that's a direct part for you saw.
knotscott is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 06-19-2008, 03:46 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6
View jbonamici's Photo Album My Photos
Take a piece of scrap that fits your miter slot, put some 220 or finer emery paper around it (you might need to plane the wood slightly) and run it up and down the slot. Then wipe it out real well with wd40, and when that's dry, run some beeswax down the slot. Treat the miter gauge the same way. That should smooth things out.
jbonamici is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 06-20-2008, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4
View Woodro's Photo Album My Photos
Thank you for the helpful info, I'll give this a try this weekend. I'm anxious to see how well this saw will cut.

I've got a 40 tooth thin curf on it now and I'm looking to buy a different blade. The current one I think it flexes a little but I won't be able to prove it till I get the saw squared up or at least go through it and check it all out to verify that it is set correctly.

What are some of your favorite blades 3?, 40's and 100's
Woodro is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 06-20-2008, 07:40 AM
No Longer Here
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,465
View knotscott's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodro View Post
...What are some of your favorite blades 3?, 40's and 100's
I've tried quite a few....TKs and full kerf. It's unusual for a high quality TK to flex if the stock is milled flat and square first unless there's excessive runout in the arbor or blade itself. There are far more high quality 80T blades available than 100T. Here's a link to some of the blades I've used and rated.

The best choice for you depends on what you cut and what you expect. I'd encourage you to stick with the best quality you can afford...sale prices can take alot of the sting out of the price. If I had to narrow my collection down to two blades, I'd lean heavily towards a 30T Forrest WWII thin kerf and an Infinity 60T 010-060 Hi-ATB blade. The 30T Forrest cuts with the ease of a 24T blade but leaves a much cleaner cut...it's very difficult to tell the cuts apart from the 40T WWII, but it cuts through thick wood more easily. The Infinity's Hi-ATB grind slices through fine veneers, plywood, or hardwoods comparably to most good 80T blades, but it's versatile enough to rip well through hardwoods up to ~ 5/4", so you can actually leave it in the saw for many general purpose type tasks requiring ultra clean cuts. Both of these blades leave a glue ready edge, very little burning, easy feedrates, but have different strengths...the combination should provide excellent performance for just about any application you'll encounter using wood or sheetgoods. Amazon puts the 30T WWII on sale occasionally for as low as $59 shipped. Infinity gets ~ $70 for the 010-060....they offer 10% off to Woodnet members using WDNET10 in the comments field.
knotscott is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 07-06-2008, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4
View Woodro's Photo Album My Photos
Well thanks for the info on the blades, great info! Now another issue pops up with my saw.

The blade moves about .007 if I have the dial indicator zeroed and turn the bade through. Also I took the belt off the arbor pully and pushed against the shaft longitudinally and moved it 5 to .007

Is this fixable or time for a new saw. I really want to buy a new saw, just trying to justify the 13 to 1700 for a cabinet vs 400 for a delta contractor saw. I've got the Vega 26" Utility fence that could be taken off and mounted to a Delta Contractor saw or will I just be frustrated with the way they cut too and ended up wanting to upgrade again.

Right now there is nothing more frustrating to me than to go out to the shop and spending hours waisted, trying to build my woodworking skills only to be foiled by my saw not being able to cut straight.
Woodro is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 07-06-2008, 06:07 AM
No Longer Here
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,465
View knotscott's Photo Album My Photos
Sounds like runout of the arbor shaft or flange. The whole arbor shaft assembly is replaceable, though I don't know how tough of a job it is. There should be some info on the Ridgid forum that outlines how to do it.
knotscott is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sears Craftsman 10" flex drive table saw hkj Power Tools & Machinery 31 12-18-2010 06:57 PM
Vega table saw fence adjustment huppmald Power Tools & Machinery 1 10-06-2008 02:13 PM
Vega table saw fence adjustment huppmald Power Tools & Machinery 1 10-06-2008 11:46 AM
Classic Craftsman 10" Table Saw burning, no power SAABMaven Power Tools & Machinery 8 09-22-2008 07:00 PM
Table saw - Lo-Tech blade adjustment niki Power Tools & Machinery 0 02-03-2008 05:15 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome