Bandsaw blade for resawing?... - Woodworking Talk

Knucklebuster · 11-23-2008, 07:03 PM

Hi Folks.

Looking for some advise on picking a blade for resawing. I've been using Timber Wolf and not too happy with them. I have a Craftsman Pro 22401. It takes blades up 3/4 wide, but I've always used 1/2 because they say 14" saw can't properly tension a 3/4 blade. Don't know if that's true or not.

I've heard good things about Highland Woodslicers and Lenox bi-metal. What do you guys like?

While I'm at it, should I be resawing at the lower blade speed (1450 ft/min) or higher speed (3000 ft/min) in hardwoods?

Thanks, Bob.

firehawkmph · 11-23-2008, 10:30 PM

Knuckle,
I've had pretty good luck with the timberwolf blades on a 14" jet. For resawing I use a 1/2" also with 3tpi and it seems to work well and track well. If you have a good guide system on your saw, I don't see where a 3/4" blade on a 14" saw is going to help you anymore. Might put more of a drag on the motor. I like the timberwolf also because you don't have to tension them up that much. I am not sure on the speed, mine only runs at one speed and I don't know what that is off the top of my head. I am sure you could check the specs on any of the popular 14" bandsaws and see what kind of blade speed they are running and that should tell you. I would guess its the higher speed of the two. Good luck,
Mike Hawkins

dbhost · 11-23-2008, 10:48 PM

What don't you like about the Timberwolf blades? I have never heard anything bad about them...

don716 · 11-23-2008, 10:56 PM

Are you saying that a 1/2" 3tpi blade works better than a 3/4" 3tpi blade??I am currently using a 3/4" 4tpi on my 14" bandsaw and I'm looking for another blade.This one works fine but if it breaks I will be down for a while. I was looking at Grizzly blades. That's where I have been buying mine in the past.Should I look at 1/2" ones?

Donny

firehawkmph · 11-23-2008, 11:06 PM

Hey Donny,
When I bought my bandsaw, the jet rep was there. He is the one that actually told me to use the timberwolf blades, and for resawing on my particular saw, he recommended the 1/2" 3tpi. I use the carter bearings on my saw, but even before I bought them, the saw tracked straight when resawing. So in my case, I don't see any advantage to going to a wider blade, as long as the 1/2" is doing the job. Plus I can still cut smaller circles and radii without changing blades.
Mike Hawkins

Woodchuck1957 · 11-24-2008, 12:18 AM

I have a JET 14" bandsaw also, and I'll give you one word of caution, even though it doesn't mention it in the manual. I had a 3/4" blade in mine and left the tension on it all winter. When I went to use the saw in the spring, I turned it on and the saw was makeing a heck of a clanging noise. After investigating the problem I find out the upper wheel axle pivot was bent out and the spokes on the wheel were hiting it. So I ordered a new part and compared it to the old part when it arrived. JET had beefed the new part up considerably were the old part had failed. So anyway I went round and round with JET customer service about detensioning the blade when done with the saw each day, ( like I said before, there was no mention of it in the manual, I'm thinking there is now though ) and also how they must of known it was a weak spot. Ever since that happened, I now allways detension the blade when I'm done for the day, especially the wider blades. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to just single out JET as the problem, I'm sure many other 14" saws were built like this also.

thekctermite · 11-24-2008, 02:05 AM

Back when I had a 14" saw, a 1/2" 3tpi Timberwolf worked best for me.

Now I use a 3/4" Timberwolf on a 19" saw.

Knucklebuster · 11-24-2008, 02:27 PM

It just seems to me that the Timber Wolf blades dull right away. I have sharpened them with a Dremmel and small chain saw stone, and it cut better than when it was new, but still didn't last very long. Also, I could see the blade jump a hair when the weld went through the guides. By the way, these are all the steel blades, not the "better" ones. Maybe that's my problem.

As far as 1/2" vs 3/4", I've read many times from different sources that most 14" saws can't properly tension a 3/4" blade enought to cut well. That a 1/2" blade will work better. Like I said, I don't know if that's true or not. When I got the saw I tried the 1/4" blade that it came with, and that worked pretty good but dulled real fast.

I always de-tension the blade when I'm done for the day. They say if you don't the tires could be deformed and go out-of-round. One thing I can say about the Craftsman saws..the wheels and spindles/bearings are massive compared to other brands I looked at.

dbhost · 11-24-2008, 02:40 PM

As far as the blades go, you are the only person I have...

#1. Seen complain about Timberwolf blades.

#2. Mention anything about the steel blades. Most folks use the Silicone Steel blades.

I would consider talking to the guys at Suffolk Machinery if your blades aren't right...

I have heard good things about the Olson blades as well. But good as compared to the OE Grizzly, Craftsman, etc... blades. I have heard Great things about the Timberwolf Silicone Steel blades...

Knucklebuster · 11-24-2008, 04:16 PM

Most folks here seem to like Timber Wolf. On a different forum I visit most folks say that woodslicers or lenox cut better and last longer. I've wondered if my technique is wrong, now I'm thinking it probably is.

Another wrinkle is that woodslicers have hardened teeth, and lenox are bi-metal. Been getting Timber Wolf steel blades (silicon steel) from Sufolk Machinery. They also list bi-metal Timber Wolfs but never tried one 'cause they cost more...but not THAT much more. I think they might even have a blade speed chart.

Don't want to beat this thread to death, but I've enjoyed the conversation. Thanks guys.

firehawkmph · 11-24-2008, 10:50 PM

Hey KB,
I have never tried a lennox bandsaw blade, but I have used a slew of their sawzall blades. I haven't found anything better for the sawzall. So maybe it would be worth a try.
Mike Hawkins