Add Delta Unifence to Craftsman Saw - Woodworking Talk

Mr.Chips · 10-25-2009, 02:26 AM

I picked up a UniFence (UF) today and would like to mount it on my Craftsman table saw.

I see that the UF is attached to the table by sliding hex head bolts into the UF extrusion, so the horzontal position of the holes is not too important because you can slide it to any position.

I see that the Craftsman table has a couple of holes for mounting the Craftsman front fence support.

Are these holes the right height for the UF? If not what should de the distance from the table top to the UF mounting holes?

Does the UF extrusion bolt directly to the table it must be shimmed out a certain distance? What is the distance?

Thanks
Hager

woodnthings · 10-25-2009, 06:08 AM

Here's my Unifence mounted on Craftsman saw(s). Bolt holes on the table are fine, no shims required. Getting the T bolts into the holes on the tables required hot glue to keep them located, then put the nuts on from underneath. Or maybe the nuts are in the rails and the bolts come in from the back underneath, can't recall. I'd have to go check, but either way I remember marking locations and hot gluing to maintain position. I had a lot more bolts/nuts to get lined up because of the width of the saw(s). Other than that it's a snap. My only objection to the Unifence is that it doesn't square up when moved to a new position until you lock it down. It requires some finess to keep it square while sliding horizontally. Otherwise a great fence with the sliding and reversible fence bar.

bill

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/membe...-remote-fence/

Mr.Chips · 10-25-2009, 10:41 AM

Thanks for the quick response Bill,

That was exactly the information I was looking for, "someone that had been there and done that", I feel good about going forward now.

I'll let you know how it comes out. And include some fitting details, naturally minus any mistakes along the way, LOL.

Hager

Mr.Chips · 10-25-2009, 09:05 PM

I had the old fence off and had the new one on in 20 minutes, but that wasn't counting the time I had to go to the hardware for some square head bolts. The old hex head bolts were too small and would spin in the extrusion, but the hex head ones were a little larger and the extrusion helt them. They fit in the fence extrusion and allow for side to side adjustment so you can set your reference mark. Then fine tune it with the little plastic guide with the red line. Didn't have to drill any new holes it bolted right up to the existing holes, Boy what planning, LOL.

As you can see by the third picture the fence front support is much wider than the saw. And the little foot that glides on the table drops down in the recess of the right side table extension, I'm figuring to build up some MDF covered with laminate and replace the table extension and make it as wide as the the fence support. Will have to make a couple of legs for support on the end but it sure will give me a bigger table. But I sure like this fence.

The old table extensions had bolt heads sticking out, so i stacked up a couple of fender washers to clear them.

I should have picked up 6 more square head bolts and bolted them into the extrusion, I'll do that when I make a larger right side extension.

I have to find a place to mount the on and off switch as it bolted to the old fence guide, but that isn't a biggie.

woodnthings · 10-25-2009, 09:58 PM

I forgot to mention the support foot on the fence issue. If I were you I'd make a large/wide laminate surface right side extension as on my Craftsman 22124, 10" saw. Your's is on a mobile base so you could run diagonal braces back down to the bottom of the right side legs for support while still being mobile. The only issue is the means of attaching the laminate substrate to the saw's table and the fence rail. My 22124 uses an angle rail across the rear, not needed with the Unisaw fence for operation, just to support the side extension. So now the issue is how to attach to the saw table.
hmmmmm. Threaded inserts might work if there's enough room below the substrate. Maybe an angle embedded just below the laminate but still supporting the extension. I'll have to check my saw to see what they did.

Apparently they didn't think any attachment was necessary, however my right side extension is solid cast iron about 12" wide.... then there's a laminate extension about 12" to the right of that, so in your case your extension would have to be about 24" to 30" wide. Now there is another way...hmmmm Find a used cast iron table saw on CL and throw away/sell everything but the table. I've just checked and the're out there for around $100 to $150. Now another dilemma arises. The cost of a new12" side extension from Sears Parts is $150. It's a wash. Back to making one probably. Well, the support will come from the Uni's rail and the angle across the back anyway, and not much in the side attachment. so maybe not a problem. Just make certain the angled legs are sturdy. OK I'm outta here!

Good Luck.

bill

Just another thought...Some folks have made a rear extension and side extension roller cabinet the saw just sits into. It provides support for longer work and wide panels and also a whole lot of storage underneath.

Another idea. ...a cast iron router extension table! www.ptreeusa.com. has one for $230 and you can mount your router in it.http://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_products.htm#1066
Ok, I'm leaving now........
One last thing I just ordered this from ptree: http://www.ptreeusa.com/uni_t_fence.htm

Texas Sawduster · 10-28-2009, 01:36 PM

Looks like my ole Craftsman, except I have the cast wings. I have been toying with buying another one and mating them together also. Now that I now the Delta fence will mate to it easlily, time to buy a fence.